My Girlfriend has a 1994 Sunbird 2.0L OHC....the water pump is blown out...
I need to replace it, and as I figured have to take the timing belt off to do so. I should replace the belt when I do the water pump, yes?
Now then, I noticed that the instructions I saw said that you need a special right angle wrench to release tension on the eccentric on the Water pump. What do you guys use for this? Is it necessary to have this particular tool or can I imporvise. What size is it? I could just get a crows foot wrench if I can find the correct size, no?
Does anyone have some good directions/diagrams for doing a timing belt/waterpump?
I should get the timing set at TDC before I take the belt off, yes?
Any help would be greaty appreciated as I'm not too familiar with this platform.
Thanks!
-Matt
98 DOHC Neon - 12.6@112mph
91 Civic Std (B16 swap) - 15.2@88mph
Definetly replacvce the belt. One question, how do you know the pump is bad? is the weep hole leaking?
Don't need any special tools to do this . A hammer is sufficent to release tension on the water pump, though in your year, you should have a tensioner which makes it FAR easier. Releasing the tension with a tensioner is simple and you should be able to figure it out.
I would HIGHLY reccomend going to your downtown library to pick up a GM REAL service manual for the year car which has excellent procedures/instructions/diagrams.
You don't have to have the engine in any particular spot when you do this. You line up the mark on the CAM gear with the mark on the timing belt cover (at the top) and then line up the crank pulley at 10 degrees BTDC on the indicator scale. That sets the mechanical timing. Always crank the engine over at leat four rotations by hand to make sure it STAYS there.
I just did this yesterday on my '90 turbo since the tensioner locked up on it. Make sure you line the timing mark on the crank gear with the mark on the bottom (its like a cutout at 0*, or right at the very bottom, and the cam gear with the mark on the top. The tensioner is more like an idler pulley than anything, so you can't really set tension with it. I have found that a long prybar (they come fairly cheap at autozone for a set of 4) is perfect for adjusting the tension on the water pump. The timing belt on the 2.0 is one of the easiest timing belts to change, so you should not have too much of a problem
Protonus wrote:Definetly replacvce the belt. One question, how do you know the pump is bad? is the weep hole leaking?
Don't need any special tools to do this . A hammer is sufficent to release tension on the water pump, though in your year, you should have a tensioner which makes it FAR easier. Releasing the tension with a tensioner is simple and you should be able to figure it out.
I would HIGHLY reccomend going to your downtown library to pick up a GM REAL service manual for the year car which has excellent procedures/instructions/diagrams.
You don't have to have the engine in any particular spot when you do this. You line up the mark on the CAM gear with the mark on the timing belt cover (at the top) and then line up the crank pulley at 10 degrees BTDC on the indicator scale. That sets the mechanical timing. Always crank the engine over at leat four rotations by hand to make sure it STAYS there.
Well, it's got a new radiator, new thermostat and gasket, and all the hoses look good. It's leaking from just above the oil filter, which is where the pump is....so I am *assuming* that it's the waterpump..because it doesnt look like a headgasket... (Doesn't blow any smoke either)
I do want a manual. I'm pretty skilled (as I put together my fully built *forged* internald 2.0L DOHC Turbo Neon) it's just that I've never worked on this particular car, and I'm in Detroit, where it's cold as hell, so I want to be fully prepared to get this done asap.
Whats your labor estimate? How many hours? Two?
98 DOHC Neon - 12.6@112mph
91 Civic Std (B16 swap) - 15.2@88mph
Scotty Bishop wrote: Make sure you line the timing mark on the crank gear with the mark on the bottom (its like a cutout at 0*, or right at the very bottom, and the cam gear with the mark on the top.
NONONONONO!!!!
That is incorrect!!! The notch in the timing scale is ZERO degrees. You need to line it up at 10 degrees BTDC per all published service literature! Please recheck your timing Scotty and to the author of this thread, ignore this post Scotty made please!
AS for how long this takes, I can't give you a good estimate for osmeone that hasn't done it before, as I've done it SO MANY TIMES lol. I'd guess.. set aside 4 hours since you're not intimitly familiar yet with where every bolt and nut is like I am. lol.
Protonus wrote:Scotty Bishop wrote: Make sure you line the timing mark on the crank gear with the mark on the bottom (its like a cutout at 0*, or right at the very bottom, and the cam gear with the mark on the top.
NONONONONO!!!!
That is incorrect!!! The notch in the timing scale is ZERO degrees. You need to line it up at 10 degrees BTDC per all published service literature! Please recheck your timing Scotty and to the author of this thread, ignore this post Scotty made please!
AS for how long this takes, I can't give you a good estimate for osmeone that hasn't done it before, as I've done it SO MANY TIMES lol. I'd guess.. set aside 4 hours since you're not intimitly familiar yet with where every bolt and nut is like I am. lol.
I've owned the car for four years (and had 2 tensioners go bad on it) and that's how I have doen it. According to the manual I have it's how you do it. I just drove mine over 100 miles today, and it runs great, has plenty of power, runs the right temperature, etc. Unfortunately it doesn't have as much power as it did since I broke my grainger valve.
Scotty Bishop wrote:I've owned the car for four years (and had 2 tensioners go bad on it) and that's how I have doen it. According to the manual I have it's how you do it. I just drove mine over 100 miles today, and it runs great, has plenty of power, runs the right temperature, etc. Unfortunately it doesn't have as much power as it did since I broke my grainger valve.
Ok I looked at a timing scale again. The notch is 8 degrees. While you are still supposed to time it at 10 degrees, a tooth off is more like 4-6 degrees, so chances are you timed it right by setting it at hte notch because the belt would allow for it being off that far. That being said you are still supposed to put the mark at 10 degrees according to GM service literature (I have multiple GM service manuals spanning a few years of sunbirds). The "notch" is 8 degrees which is for electrically timing the car , NOT for mechanicaly timing it.
I set my car up on TDC once and it ran fine, no driveability problems at all -BUT! I couldn't figure out why my idle vacuum reading went from 19" to 16" until I figured out what I had done. Reset it to 8 BTDC and presto- vacuum back up top 19".
No doubt it would have hurt the gas mileage. It surely caused some loss of torque that I probably would have seen in a timeslip at the race track if I ever had time to get there, but that's a different story!
Tony
Tony
1987 Sunbird GT turbo convert
Ported intake, Fiero 53 MM TB, 52 lb inj, ported and flowed head, tube header, Mitsu TD06, ARP rod
bolts/head studs, adj cam sprocket, 4" x 12" x 31" FMIC, Paxton AFPR, modified 125 trans/LSD
unit/3.42's, custom chip tuning, Alky Control Methanol injection
13.61 ET at 101.44 mph, 262 WHP/350WTQ
2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP roadster, 2.0 turbo w/GMPP exh, CAI and turbo upgrade, 290 hp/325 ft lbs
1969 Olds 442 convert
400 Eng, 200-4R trans, 3.73 posi, power everything, OAI
Okay...I've worked on alot of cars, but this one is a serious pain in my ass. I pulled the timing belt cover, off, and the serpentine belt, as well as the idler pulley. Now, I was looking at the timing belt tensioner and I don't see a way to loosen it. The manual shows that it's held on by one bolt, and a stud. Is THIS how you release tension on the timing belt? My mission is to do the waterpump. The Haynes manual (which SUCKS BTW) says to get a 1 3/4" Crows foot wrench, and weld a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter to it, and turn the waterpump eccentric to release the tension on the belt. Unfortunently I have to get this thing done ASAP, can anyone please give me some good, explanitory step by step directions to doing the waterpump/timing belt? I would REALLY appreciate it (and yes I searched the site for both and didn't come up with much). I assume I need to set the timing at TDC, and pull the crank pulley as well? Does the rear (closes to the block) timing belt cover NEED to come off? Or can you get to the one bolt that holds the water pump on thru the cover, then bendthe cover so you can pull the pump out?
Please help!!
-Matt
98 DOHC Neon - 12.6@112mph
91 Civic Std (B16 swap) - 15.2@88mph
The water pump is what tightens the timing belt. I changed the water pump when I rebuilt the engine, so I already had the inner cover off. I would definitley take the inner cover off since bending it is a bad idea, and it's 3 bolts that hold it on, not one.
Scotty Bishop wrote:The water pump is what tightens the timing belt. I changed the water pump when I rebuilt the engine, so I already had the inner cover off. I would definitley take the inner cover off since bending it is a bad idea, and it's 3 bolts that hold it on, not one.
But you have to pull the cam gear off to do this, no?
98 DOHC Neon - 12.6@112mph
91 Civic Std (B16 swap) - 15.2@88mph
Yep. If I remember correctly there is a place on the camshaft where a wrench holds it in place while you take the bolt loose. You have to pull the valve cover to get to it.
