Will AGX Struts be able to hold a B&G drop which is 1.6 all around. I've tried these springs on tokico hp's and on gr2's and the end result have been blown struts! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
when it comes to boobs i need a girl with bad grades cause im tired of all the ones walking around with straight a's
Jay Blake wrote:Will AGX Struts be able to hold a B&G drop which is 1.6 all around. I've tried these springs on tokico hp's and on gr2's and the end result have been blown struts! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
They would be better than HPs or GR2s, but still just slightly past their warranty threshold of 1.5". It sounds like you've had enough hassle already, and should be willing to get some D-Specs or Konis to be done with it.
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thats because gr2s and hps are oem replacements and not meant to be lowered on. agx will work but i would still use dspecs for the fact that kyb wont warranty the strut past 1.5"
I'm confident that the AGX's would hold up fine on a 1.6" drop. However, I think you will the ride a bit bouncy. I'm on H&R's (1.6/1.4) and the AGX's are about maxed out to prevent bouncing.
I'd stop messing around, and get struts which you know will be able to handle the drop. Koni Yellows, or D-specs.
agxs will handle it. i honestly think they can but imo why buy a strut that isnt going to be warrantied?
Well, everyone talks like KYB knows exactly how much your drop was based on wear patterns on the strut, but I'm not convinced they can tell a difference between 1.5 and 1.6 inches. I've yet to hear of anyone having warranty problems with a 1.6" drop (or a blown AGX strut for that matter). In my dealings with KYB they were all very nice and helpful to me so I would like to think you could get away with a 1.6" spring.
well i know art has talked to them several times before and he is the person that ive heard it from that kyb will be able to tell the difference. i tend to take arts word over the majority of the people in this forum because he knows his stuff. not saying your wrong because i dont know how they would be able to determine it either but im just going by arts word
With the dollar amounts we're talking about with AGXs vs. D-Specs, it seems like simple choice to me. AGXs, the "cheaper choice", aren't exactly cheap. You still spend over $350, and you get what "should be" a good solution. It should work without a hitch, and the warranty should be valid in the off chance that something goes wrong. KYB should overlook a mere 1/10th of an inch, because your springs should run at exactly 1.6" without any sagging.
Or you can find an extra $150, and get a little nicer set of struts with fewer "shoulds". Just my 2 cents.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, April 10, 2007 5:57 AM
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i have BG springs and although they say it gives you a 1.6" drop, you also need to think about what they actually settle at!! cuz im pretty sure (i havent gotten a ruller out or anything) that mine have settled past 1.6". i thought about getting the agx's since theyre cheaper than the dspecs too. money is real tight for me. but i havent because im not comfortable with taking the risk of blowing the agx and need new shocks again. so im just ridin on my oem (blown) till i get the chance for some dspecs (if i get the chance). id say hold out alittle longer for the dspecs. ive heard dspecs are easier to install compared to yellows. FYI
StrippedCav98 (Now Quotable) wrote:well i know art has talked to them several times before and he is the person that ive heard it from that kyb will be able to tell the difference. i tend to take arts word over the majority of the people in this forum because he knows his stuff. not saying your wrong because i dont know how they would be able to determine it either but im just going by arts word
Of course KYB is going to tell Art they can tell a difference between 1.5 and 1.6 wear patterns.
i wouldnt be suprised if they can though. we have a machine shop here where i work (granted we dont make struts) but some of these machines can determine things down to .0000 of an inch and the difference between 1.5" and 1.6" is almost 1/8". if they lied to art or not like geeky said i would still rather spend the extra 150 and get a much better strut
Yea I've had my B&G for 2 years and have tried with hps and they rode like @!#$ then I tried gr2's and they rode better. I've had no problem with the front, its just the rear of the car that rides extremely rough. As a matter of fact I've noticed that its only the driver rear strut that keeps blowing. Is that a sign of anything? I already changed that strut mount! Also my springs have settled, it actually lowers the car 1.7
when it comes to boobs i need a girl with bad grades cause im tired of all the ones walking around with straight a's
Jay Blake wrote: As a matter of fact I've noticed that its only the driver rear strut that keeps blowing. Is that a sign of anything?
Do you keep a lot of extra weight in the trunk and make a lot of right-hand turns?
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i have 1 12" speaker and about 10 pds of other stuff in my trunk and I guess i make as many right turns as everyone else does. What does this have to do with the strut if you dont mind me asking.
when it comes to boobs i need a girl with bad grades cause im tired of all the ones walking around with straight a's
Jay Blake wrote:i have 1 12" speaker and about 10 pds of other stuff in my trunk and I guess i make as many right turns as everyone else does. What does this have to do with the strut if you dont mind me asking.
I was half-joking, however it is conceivable that excessive loading from cargo and/or cornering could play a role in strut failure. It doesn't sound like you're a likely candidate for that explanation though.
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Jay Blake wrote:Yea I've had my B&G for 2 years and have tried with hps and they rode like @!#$ then I tried gr2's and they rode better. I've had no problem with the front, its just the rear of the car that rides extremely rough. As a matter of fact I've noticed that its only the driver rear strut that keeps blowing. Is that a sign of anything? I already changed that strut mount! Also my springs have settled, it actually lowers the car 1.7
thats because gr2s are the same as hps. get proper struts
Geeky wrote:With the dollar amounts we're talking about with AGXs vs. D-Specs, it seems like simple choice to me. AGXs, the "cheaper choice", aren't exactly cheap. You still spend over $350, and you get what "should be" a good solution. It should work without a hitch, and the warranty should be valid in the off chance that something goes wrong. KYB should overlook a mere 1/10th of an inch, because your springs should run at exactly 1.6" without any sagging.
Or you can find an extra $150, and get a little nicer set of struts with fewer "shoulds". Just my 2 cents.
True. With Koni Yellows or D-Specs, you won't have to worry about them blowing or not warranting the struts. Personally, I would get D-Specs or Yellows and be done with it. With AGX, you run the risk of them not being able to handle the springs and not being warrantied. Then you'd be out for GR2s, HPs, AGXs, and still need new struts.
I found a set of 2 rear koni red struts online for $250 brand new. I have a few questions about these, Is this a good price? Will they hold a drop of 1.7 and do you have to do mod it to bolt up like the yellows?
when it comes to boobs i need a girl with bad grades cause im tired of all the ones walking around with straight a's
thats a pretty good price, they will hold the drop and you dont have to mod it like the front you only have to drill out the strut mount to a half inch i think? cant remember right now
Anybody else with any input, your help would be greatly appreciated.
when it comes to boobs i need a girl with bad grades cause im tired of all the ones walking around with straight a's
