I would like your opinion, some of you know I am working on a mid-engine swap. (though not today because I'm sick, so I'm just brain storming)
but I would like your opinion, since the weight is gonna be so massively shifted, should i
a) try finding the appropriate spring size by using some math's by wieghing the car and finding an appropriate spring size/compression rate
b) change the suspension mounting point (since I'm doing so much custom fabrication anyways)
notes: I would like to keep the budget for the suspension around the $300 mark, and it's gonna be designed as if it were a daily driver. (so no racing suspension or anything unless I have 2)
c) other?
any Idea's welcome
-------------------------------------------------
who care's if it's impossible?
I'm gonna do it anyways.
...just a tip.. if you plan on doing the swap and want it to drive right then that 300 bux is gonna have to get a few more friends.......The car will handle different and i have never seen a mid swap done on a J....a few trucks and a few more vans and they did handle different.......it's a pretty big weight shift
2003 Cavalier
Stock 2.2 Liter, 5 speed
" Leave the rice to Uncle Ben's and the wings to KFC..
Go clean or go home. "
Not to be an ass, but if you don't understand all of the forces being applied to the suspension don't try it yourself. You'll have to think about many things such as what camber, caster, toe you want to achieve as well as how many g's you plan to pull with the car. Also, what suspension type will you be running? McPherson? Double wishbone? etc. Once you have models of these things you can then start analyzing different spring and damper coefficients. I would suggest getting to know some good engineers...
Also, not to be a dick, but going through the custom work to go midship with the engine but only allocating 300 for suspension = fail
Your best bet would be contacting Tein or Gravana, or any company that has a full coilover for our chassis, explaining what you are doing, and seeing if they can suggest custom spring rates for your app. Many times those full coilovers are designed around a universally sized spring and they may have something they can do for you, but it's going to cost a great sight over 300 dollars.
Very basically speaking, your spring rate in the front should be lower, and your rate in the rear should be higher, and your going to need a GOOD damper in the rear to keep from bouncing all over the place and bottoming out. Think of riding in the stock jbody with 4-500lbs in the trunk - sucks!