so ive been searching around and looking at pics and reading posts and there doesnt seem to be a general consensus on what is the best tie bar design. so im stealing pics from older posts to see whats what.
option number 1


option number 2


option number 3


What seems to be the best option?






horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.

none of them.

lol really? then what?!?!?


horsepower is the force that determines at what speed you hit the wall, torque is the force that determines how far you take the wall with you after you hit it.

nothing.

don't install a tie bar.

front and rear sway bars, front and rear strut bars, subframe k brace, cadillac strut bar/trunk brace, poly bushings everywhere they can go and done.

number 3 has been proven to cause toe in and toe out, number 2 is too stiff for a street application, number 1 also causes toe in and toe out but not nearly as bad as option 3

Zs Z wrote:number 3 has been proven to cause toe in and toe out, number 2 is too stiff for a street application, number 1 also causes toe in and toe out but not nearly as bad as option 3

Basically. But if you are actually driving hard enough to have issues with toe change then number 1 would be the solution. But I dont see that happening unless you're running on R-Comp's.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

I guess I'm a newbie as this, how does one get problems with the toe on the rear since you really can't adjust it that much?
Thank
Redrider02


"big boom big boom"-Adam Savage. "quack damn you"-Jamie Hyneman "mythbusters"

The rear "trailing arms" can flex due to the force of grip from turning.


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

You don't want to make the rear to stiff. Oversteer in a fwd is no good.
Blucavvy is right on the money. That's the exact setup I'm using minus the caddy bar. And most solo drivers use

There was a tie bar made years ago that worked really well.


2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time

Leafy-

Are you saying if things are too stiff in the rear that you can actually bend the trailing arm because the energy has nowhwere else to go?
I'm starting to get into the field and want to learn all that I can.
Thank you
Redrider02


"big boom big boom"-Adam Savage. "quack damn you"-Jamie Hyneman "mythbusters"

redrider02 wrote:Leafy-

Are you saying if things are too stiff in the rear that you can actually bend the trailing arm because the energy has nowhwere else to go?
I'm starting to get into the field and want to learn all that I can.
Thank you
Redrider02

I'm saying that without a tie bar you can actually make the trailing arm of the outside wheel bend inward with enough turning force (ie, turning hard at an auto-c with r-comps). This bending causes the wheel to toe out. You get the opposite effect to a lesser extent on the inside wheel. When you use the normal tie bar you get the same effect except that both trailing arms bend the same amount. BUT when the normal tie bar if you hit a bump with one one wheel the tie bar will cause both wheels to toe out (because it bends both trailing arms inward), this doesnt happen with out the tie bar, nor with the triangulated tie bar (well at least not as much). The triangulated tie bar will actually stop the toe change in cornering rather than letting both wheels just move together and is the best choice but I believe its over kill for all but the most extreme people on here (those people who track their car or other wise drive hard with r-comps).


1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by: Kronos Performance

WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer

Thank you Leafy
That makes sense now


"big boom big boom"-Adam Savage. "quack damn you"-Jamie Hyneman "mythbusters"