So I'm planning on finally installing the Hub Spacers from Teh Jeffie
Wanted to know however... do I need to take apart the entire rear drum and shoe assembly to install them, or can I simply take the backing plate off with the shoes still attached?



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

Never had the drums off of these cars yet but I would assume you would have to from working on other cars/trucks with drum brakes.
It's not that hard but if you are doing it for the first time, try to remember where all the little springs go, either take a picture or refer to a hanyes manual or something? Not sure if there is a how to on here that might help too.



2000 Cavalier Z24 5spd - Intake, Dynomax muffler, Hawk Pads, Powerslot rotors, Sportlines/Koni reds, Neon Coil, MSD 8.5 Wires - **SOLD**
2014 Kia Forte Koup SX 6spd - 1.6L Turbo - My new car
2015 Kia Sorento EX V6 AWD - Wifes Car

Rick wrote:...but if you are doing it for the first time...

exactly the problem
plus I want to change them if I need to but idk how to know if I need changing or not



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

You do NOT need to take the whole drum apart to install the spacers.

Thanks to Jay Vans pics, the shoes and hub are still attached.












~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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Sweet
Do you know what size bolt is holding the plate on? looks like a torx head??? Can I assume same as the caliper bolt in front?



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

Don't know about that bolt, just use the ones that came with the hub spacer. Those will work.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
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Oh definitly will...
but want to know the size of bolt to remove before hand to make sure I can get it off



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
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Ohh, the stock bolt? Hmm. I THINK it is a T55 HEX. There are 4 of them, gotta rotate the hub to the hole that is big enough to fit your extention and socket through.









~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
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306 TQ

Great Thanks for the help
Anyone else care to add anything post it up, otherwise, I'll confirm everything once complete



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

i would undo it from the nuts in back.. rather then the torx,i had bad luck with stripping the torx. IMO

^^Good point, that is how I actually broke loose the bolts is from the nut in the back, then used the hex to take off the bolt.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Yes they are T55 torx bit, Also to avoid stripping them use a breaker bar for extra leverage. Should be able to take the drum off, Then you'll see 4 torx screws, Undo them. The wheel bearing should pop out. Then I believe there is 4 other torx bits on the rear plate. slide it out, Install new one.

good luck.

anyone have pics of different offsets and where it brings the rim and tire combo to the rear quarter?/

thanks
jason

I pulled the drums all apart when I installed mine, it just made life a lot easier. I suppose if you never done drums before it might not, but now is the perfect time to learn!



Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.

i would spray some penetrating oil around the nuts and let it sit a while i just did mine last night and one was very corroded and i started to strip out the torx head in the bolt, stupid torx heads i dont know why they ever use those, it also helps to have another person help so when you are breaking them loose they can really push into the torx head to make sure it doesnt strip out, i barley got the last one off it was stuck so bad and starting to strip out

You should have been loosening the nut, not the torx bolt. And torx sockets are much stronger than allen keys and regular 6 sided hex drives, you're just doing it wrong.



Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.

Transporter7220 wrote:...you're just doing it wrong.

Thems Fighting words

But thanks for all the help
Just to clarify... the nuts in the back aren't welded to the backing plate?



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

1 hint would be to undo the bolt that holds the brake line to axle. leave the brakes together. pull brake assembly out just far enough to slide spacer in and put new bolts in. "fandango" brake line so that retaining bolt can be reused so you dont kink the line.google new cuss words cause the mounting bolts where tight as balls! (i happen to work at a shop but i did this at my house with some snap on cordless impacts) (im a cheater)i have a thread somewhere that showed how my car looks with the .5 inch spacers finally rubbed once the other day on driver side going through a turn and hit a bump.. not too bad though. hope that helped or was in time...

Jay, no the nuts are not welded. Undo the ABS sensor to get to the nuts, brake those loose then use the torx to take them out the rest of the way.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Cool
I've got no ABS sensor so 1 step already done for me



Buddy Club Ecotec Cavalier
* More to come *

Jay Corkit wrote:
Just to clarify... the nuts in the back aren't welded to the backing plate?

Correct, they come off pretty easy when you torque on the nuts instead of the bolts.



Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.

my bolts were corroded as hell, i broke the nuts loose in the back that didnt stop the torx bits from stripping out... i eventually ended up hammering a slight larger allen key into the stripped out torx head just to get one bolt borke loose more than 1/4 turn that i fought for an hour, if your bolts aren't rusted beyone all reason you should be fine but mine were awful, especially the lower rear bolt on both sides those were the ones that gave me trouble and the car is a 2003 so if you have an older model may want an extra set of hands

Correction, the hex bolts are a T50, just had to do drum work lastnight.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

Really? I had to go out and buy a T55 head for my hubs in order to replace lugs (two were cross threaded and broke last break change) cuz my t50 was too small and the t60 too big... Why would they be different?




I'll eventually take the time to put something here. I swear.

Not sure why they would be different, maybe different years or something. My 2002 has a T50.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ