You all know how our mounts are... horribly held by one bolt with bracket hole bigger than the bolt, so it slide all over. What do you guys use to hold it in place? I tried lock washers and it still slides. What do you all recommend?
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
New brackets and new polyurethane bushings. I've never had a problem with mine moving. Ever.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
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Roofy wrote:New brackets and new polyurethane bushings. I've never had a problem with mine moving. Ever.
I was looking for what to use so the the bracket doesn't move forward and back. What people used to hold it in place. GM decided it would suffice with one freaking bolt. It doesn't help that I am using a 25.4mm bar too.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
mine doesn't move at all...weird
1999 - Cavalier - 5speed - Exhaust - 17" rims - carbon fiber hood - the beater
front? rear? I dont have that issue in the rear and havent much checked the front.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
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WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
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conservative sway bars don't have this problem, just the liberal ones.
maybe you should convert.
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Roofy wrote:New brackets and new polyurethane bushings. I've never had a problem with mine moving. Ever.
I was looking for what to use so the the bracket doesn't move forward and back. What people used to hold it in place. GM decided it would suffice with one freaking bolt. It doesn't help that I am using a 25.4mm bar too.
I was just suggesting thay maybe your brackets are stretched allowing them to move?
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Leafy (Club Jeffie FEA man) wrote:front? rear? I dont have that issue in the rear and havent much checked the front.
It would be the front.
Yhea, the rear is okay, I do shoot silicone and all is well back there.
Here you can see the paint shaving. It is greater than the bolt's head btw, indicating movement.
Roofy wrote:Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:Roofy wrote:New brackets and new polyurethane bushings. I've never had a problem with mine moving. Ever.
I was looking for what to use so the the bracket doesn't move forward and back. What people used to hold it in place. GM decided it would suffice with one freaking bolt. It doesn't help that I am using a 25.4mm bar too.
I was just suggesting thay maybe your brackets are stretched allowing them to move?
Oh yhea... I'm well aware of these brackets being out specs,
ofcourse so does GM with their TSB.
BTW... GM did change the brackets, i've changed them about 3 time already. See if you can tell the difference.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
The tab looks a little more angled toward the base. Have you tried poly mounts? I am about to get new mounts for mine and I want to find an option that will last.
-I drive my car to work-
I've always ditched the crappy hardware that comes with them and picked up some stainless fasteners, with threads at least half way down the bolt, that way I can get some really good preload on the bushings without the nuts running out of threads. The ones that come with it aren't threaded nearly far enough down the bolt IMO. After that I haven't had much of a problem.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Transporter7220 wrote:I've always ditched the crappy hardware that comes with them and picked up some stainless fasteners, with threads at least half way down the bolt, that way I can get some really good preload on the bushings without the nuts running out of threads. The ones that come with it aren't threaded nearly far enough down the bolt IMO. After that I haven't had much of a problem.
You, go buy new bushings and replace the ones that you @!#$ to hell. The proper tightness for sway bar end links is just tight enough that you can barely turn the washers/spacers by hand.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
That also makes them chatter like crazy every time you hit a damn bump. @!#$ that.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Leafy is correct on the end links.^^^
durandall05 . wrote:The tab looks a little more angled toward the base. Have you tried poly mounts? I am about to get new mounts for mine and I want to find an option that will last.
Actually, the lip is longer. I have not tried poly bushings. The bars works just fine. By me adding the poly, it would move even more as the poly is stiffer... causing the bracket to be pushed and therefore move more than with the rubber mount.
Transporter7220 wrote:I've always ditched the crappy hardware that comes with them and picked up some stainless fasteners, with threads at least half way down the bolt, that way I can get some really good preload on the bushings without the nuts running out of threads. The ones that come with it aren't threaded nearly far enough down the bolt IMO. After that I haven't had much of a problem.
I've noticed on the threads too. I think what GM did by removing the thread is for you to guide it in. I tell you this because I bought some new GM bolts for it and they are thread down. And every time I put one in, the bolt goes in and gets all out of shape. About 3 yrs ago I did it on a lift and after 5 hrs I gave up and put in the original half threaded one, and in under a minute, it was all good.
01SilverFire wrote:I have these http://energysuspension.com/products/Sway-Bar-End-Link-Bushings.html Part# 9.5158R .I took a grinder and ground down one tab to make it fit snug in the slot.The stock brackets that I had were rusty .Did you try a locking tooth washer?Maybe bend the tab a little?
I looked at those and I like them, but the hole is even longer and all I can see is it moving more. Yes, I tried the lock washer and all it did was grind the bracket to the point of rust lol.
>>>For Sale? Clicky!<<<
-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Maybe control arm bushings are loose allowing the sway bar to move???
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
