Just changed the brake pads on my 02 Cavalier LS Sport. Now I seem to have a worse problem. The car doesn't seem to want to brake unless I really step on the pedal. I mean I'm talking cramp in the leg from pressing on the pedal. Think bleeding them would help? Or possibly master cylinder problems? Any ideas are appreciated.

Should try bleeding them and going from there. You should bleed your brakes anyways with new pads. Let us know




2003 Cavalier 2dr. 5spd

Bleeding is not normal with new pads. If you have air in your lines you have a crack. If you have steam in your lines, you have too old fluid and it's time for a good flush.

Try the bleeding first. I doubt your master cylinder is bad.

^^^^^
Where was the brake fluid level AFTER you changed the pads?

Alont

Fluid Level was full after the change, that's why I wasn't so sure if bleeding would help. I also forgot to mention, when the brake is held down, rpms go up for a couple seconds. Could a vacuum leak afect something like this?

Does the brake pedal not want to go down, or is there just no effect when pushing it?

Not want to go down could indicate a vacuum leak of some kind.
Going down and nothing there would use up all the vacuum (letting additional air in) and temporarily raising the rpms (though it should be a very small amount, like 100 rpms)

Pedal doesn't want to go down unless pressed very hard. Then there is brake...just not a great one. Also i can hear the sound of air down by the brake pedal when I push on the brake.

Hmm.. Yeah start checking for a vacuum leak somewhere, there's not too much line to check, so shouldn't be too bad. You booster might also be bad, but I've never personally seen one go bad before, very simple device...

DJ Raz wrote:Just changed the brake pads on my 02 Cavalier LS Sport. Now I seem to have a worse problem. The car doesn't seem to want to brake unless I really step on the pedal. I mean I'm talking cramp in the leg from pressing on the pedal. Think bleeding them would help? Or possibly master cylinder problems? Any ideas are appreciated.

some fresh break fluid would help allot. but what kind of pads did you install on it? back when i had my 02 cav i put cheap autozone pads on it and that thing took allot of pedal pressure to stop it. example: if i stood on the brakes from 60 it would not lock up a wheel to kick in the ABS. the stock cavalier pads are bad to begin with a good pad (non ceramic) like a performance friction from autozone and fresh fluid will make a world of difference. over time brake fluid loosed it's hydraulic ability over time too making your problem worse. and did you clean and re-lube the caliper slides?


see ya!

i'm just guessing...

did you have the rotors resurfaced, or at least, use sandpaper to create a non-directional finish on the original rotors? (apply paper on a circular pattern throughout the rotor surface, then flush w/ water or brake kleen)

if not, remove the pads, sand both the rotors & pads again... make sure to check/relube the sliding caliper pins...

then, go out on a test drive & do a couple of moderate-applied stops to heat-cycle the pads & to introduce some material on the rotors (bedding the brakes is the term, i think). it's like go up to 30 mph, then brake... about 5x or so. then let them cool.

after cooling, it should stop better. i did this procedure on cheapo pads from autozone. heck, they have a lifetime warranty & if you have "glazed" the pads w/out "bedding them into the rotors, u can exchange them for free (w/ receipt, of course).

lemme know how it goes. i don't think it's a vaccuum issue or a fluid problem. but it won't hurt to change the brake fluid by bleeding it outta the calipers... that's another story probably covered in the archives already.

I forgot to mention that the problem with the pedal being real hard started a couple days before I installed the new pads so I doubt it's the pads...even though they are autozone lifetime waranty pads! LOL! Gonna try bleeding this week and see where we go from there. Thanks guys for the input so far...makes me proud to see how much help this site can be. I don't post alot but It's good to know when you got a problem the org we'll be there for you.

but-but-but

did u resurface the rotors or home-prepped them by sanding the existing rotors B4 u replace the pads????

& if u didn't "bed" the new pads so that some of the material will mate to the resurfaced rotors... they will glaze over...

what's the condition of them rotors, dude?

No I didnt resurface them...I did do several stop starts when I first put them on. Dont think thats enough to bed them?

Why not just buy new rotors? They are only like $15 a piece at Discount Auto.

Also, when you bed your brakes you should try not to stop. Do several 60-10 slow downs and try not to stop while doing this. Read this to learn more

The rotors looked fine before I changed the pads..why go new? Also the very hard brake started a few days before I changed the pads. Do you mean I could have ruined the rotors since I may not have bedded them properly?

You won't ruin your rotors, you brakes just won't be working to their absolute best potential. If you are still having problems with your pedal, then you should start by flushing your entire brake system. If you still have problems with your pedal, then I would start checking out the master cylinder and brake booster.

DJ Raz wrote:I forgot to mention that the problem with the pedal being real hard started a couple days before I installed the new pads so I doubt it's the pads...

ookies, then do the bleeding process... to rule out bad/old fluid. after that & it's still a hard pedal check booster, vaccuum check valve...

i'd still remove the pads, hand resurface the rotors w/ some sandpaper (as well as the pads to deglaze them), relube the sliding caliper pins...clean w/ brakeclean & do the "bedding process" again.

Well not to bring this back from the dead but it did end up being the brake booster. Oh what a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon. LOL! Thanks for all the suggetions guys!