Hey guys, My name is zade and I am a new owner of a 1996 Chevrolet Cavalier 2 door.. I have the 2.2L For Cylinder engine. I got this car for cheap because It needed a new head gasket, So I spent some time getting the cylinder head checked and all new gaskets and stuff But I ran into a problem and I am hoping someone on here can help me..
The machine shop who cleaned my cylinder head took the rockers nuts and all hardware off the Cylinder head. I was really nervus when I got it back because I dont quite understand valves and timing too well, and My original intention was to put the cylinder head back on the block and be done with it..
NOW, I have absolutley NO idea how to set the valves on this car, I kinda sorta got it to run, But it shuts down because I think there are some exhaust valves that are not functioning properly..I adjusted the valves one time on my Pontiac firebird with a V8 engine But my firebird had a Distributor. this Car has a distributorless Ignition system..I HAVE NO IDEA where to start or what to do, can someone help me out?. Any information or Directions to Setting valves from a head gasket job would be greatly appreciated cause I need my car back haha...
Thanks, Zade
if you mean setting the valve lash on these cars, you don't. you crank down on the rocker nut and when it stops, you're done.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
^ True story. There's an actual torque spec for them. IIRC it's 22 ft/lbs. But you can look in the manual and see (or go on Autozone.com and look the one up online) Just crank them down and it's set.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
SHOoff wrote:^ True story. There's an actual torque spec for them. IIRC it's 22 ft/lbs. But you can look in the manual and see (or go on Autozone.com and look the one up online) Just crank them down and it's set.
Isnt this a interference engine tho?I feel of I crank them down i will tighten them too far and wind up wiping out the cam and breaking the cylinder head...when I did my firebird I had to set the valves by using a seaquence, does anyone know what Im talking about here?....and is it a interference engine?
Zade Mac wrote:SHOoff wrote:^ True story. There's an actual torque spec for them. IIRC it's 22 ft/lbs. But you can look in the manual and see (or go on Autozone.com and look the one up online) Just crank them down and it's set.
Isnt this a interference engine tho?I feel of I crank them down i will tighten them too far and wind up wiping out the cam and breaking the cylinder head...when I did my firebird I had to set the valves by using a seaquence, does anyone know what Im talking about here?....and is it a interference engine?
yes, we do know what you're talking about there. that's why we've said:
Quote:
if you mean setting the valve lash on these cars, you don't. you crank down on the rocker nut and when it stops, you're done.
take the nuts to 22 ft lbs. i can guarantee you won't be able to turn them any further because the nut has bottomed out on the rocker and ball. also, non interference engine.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Zade Mac wrote:SHOoff wrote:^ True story. There's an actual torque spec for them. IIRC it's 22 ft/lbs. But you can look in the manual and see (or go on Autozone.com and look the one up online) Just crank them down and it's set.
Isnt this a interference engine tho?I feel of I crank them down i will tighten them too far and wind up wiping out the cam and breaking the cylinder head...when I did my firebird I had to set the valves by using a seaquence, does anyone know what Im talking about here?....and is it a interference engine?
yes, we do know what you're talking about there. that's why we've said:
Quote:
if you mean setting the valve lash on these cars, you don't. you crank down on the rocker nut and when it stops, you're done.
take the nuts to 22 ft lbs. i can guarantee you won't be able to turn them any further because the nut has bottomed out on the rocker and ball. also, non interference engine.
Thankyou, I feel alot better knowing its a non interference engine..I Have the Nuts down at 3 or 4 threads and they all are down the same thread length.. I read a article before I asked for help on here about getting each cylinder on TDC and snugging each valve till there is no play and you can still turn the pushrod..
Forgive me if your giving me the answer, and just dont understand.. heres why..
about a few years ago I had this same problem with my firebird, a good friend of mine who lives in iowa emailed me on how to set the valves for when I had My cylinder heads rebuilt. It was a whole process that involved me spinning the engine till the distributor showed firing on number six for intake and adusted the intake valves that way..then I ahd to spin it again and put it on cylinder six again for exaust stroke, than do the exhaust valves..
I dont know what Im doing al all with these valves..I think I got them this time, But the car sounds like it had crossed ign wires ( I did the wires) and I remove the wires and it was spinning fine...Im gonan check that when I get home..
But, If you can explain the whole process to me from a start where You get the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they took the nuts and rockers off the head and I have to do ths from scratch. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Zade Mac wrote:
But, If you can explain the whole process to me from a start where You get the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they took the nuts and rockers off the head and I have to do ths from scratch. Any help would be greatly appreciated
you install the valves, springs, and retainers. then you install the head on the engine. drop in the pushrods, put on the rockers, then the balls, then the nuts. crank them all down to 22 lb/ft, or till they stop turning. (looked up the spec, it's actually 22 +some degrees, but they bottom out at that exact degree. therefore, crank them down till they stop.) install valve cover, good to go. there is no lash adjustment to be had on factory rockers.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Zade Mac wrote:
But, If you can explain the whole process to me from a start where You get the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they took the nuts and rockers off the head and I have to do ths from scratch. Any help would be greatly appreciated
you install the valves, springs, and retainers. then you install the head on the engine. drop in the pushrods, put on the rockers, then the balls, then the nuts. crank them all down to 22 lb/ft, or till they stop turning. (looked up the spec, it's actually 22 +some degrees, but they bottom out at that exact degree. therefore, crank them down till they stop.) install valve cover, good to go. there is no lash adjustment to be had on factory rockers.
Thanks, I will do as you say, But why do people tell me that if I crank them down all they way like that I will wipe out the cam and mess up the push rods..the way you described it it to me was the way I wanted to do it, but alot of people have told me I can mess up the engine.. since i know its a non interference engine I will try what you said. and again thanks for your help
Can also depend how far the head was cut, but should be fine if you brought in just for cleaning/straightening..
Chris Ancel wrote:Can also depend how far the head was cut, but should be fine if you brought in just for cleaning/straightening..
That would have nothing to do with the valve lash though. If it was decked, you would use a thicker head gasket or a spacer shim. Again, you simply tighten the rockers till they stop.
JBO Stickers! Get yours today!
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Chris Ancel wrote:Can also depend how far the head was cut, but should be fine if you brought in just for cleaning/straightening..
That would have nothing to do with the valve lash though. If it was decked, you would use a thicker head gasket or a spacer shim. Again, you simply tighten the rockers till they stop.
True, that would have nothing to do with valve lash. Was just saying you would have to use spacers or something if you went crazy with the head cutting.
Zade Mac wrote:Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:Zade Mac wrote:
But, If you can explain the whole process to me from a start where You get the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they took the nuts and rockers off the head and I have to do ths from scratch. Any help would be greatly appreciated
you install the valves, springs, and retainers. then you install the head on the engine. drop in the pushrods, put on the rockers, then the balls, then the nuts. crank them all down to 22 lb/ft, or till they stop turning. (looked up the spec, it's actually 22 +some degrees, but they bottom out at that exact degree. therefore, crank them down till they stop.) install valve cover, good to go. there is no lash adjustment to be had on factory rockers.
Thanks, I will do as you say, But why do people tell me that if I crank them down all they way like that I will wipe out the cam and mess up the push rods..the way you described it it to me was the way I wanted to do it, but alot of people have told me I can mess up the engine.. since i know its a non interference engine I will try what you said. and again thanks for your help
All those V8 guys tend to have a real limited knowledge of just about anything, that's why they told you that it would wipe out your cam. And even if you do the V6 roller rocker mod on that engine (which would require lash adjustment) and you just torqued them down, it would bend the pushrods real bad. Trust me, I know this.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
The 2.2 is really easy to work on, i had to do a head job on mine a few months ago and i have never done anything like that before...so i read ALOT of posts here first then jumped in..And thanks to some common sense, a rachet set and the helpful guys on the org i got it done and she runs like a champ now
