I just finished installing my msd digital window switch on my car. I was playing around, and again, the car is disliking the spray.

I am spraying a 55 shot with Autolite 103 plugs, on an ecotec. I had the window switch set for 3000 to 6100 rpm.

I am running 94 octane.

What range are the other ecotec drivers spraying in?

Also, my problem seems to be misfiring..... Anyone notice how short the autolite 103's are in comparison to the stock plugs?

all the plugs that ecotec owners have found are shorter by quite a bit but those and the ngk tr6's work well

i'm not sure what you mean by your car "disliking" the nitrous.... what exactly is it doing??

most people do have their window switches up a bit higher however, right around 3800 or so

Seems to misfire TERRIBLY. I sprayed through 1, 2, and into 3rd, and the car started to pop and sputter. I shut it down immediately. Is this because I went into wot, from first, and the switch kicked it on at 3000, but needed to be spinning higher?

it is most likely your plugs -- might want to try the NGK TR6's --- That is what I used for 34 bottles and no misfire issues on a 75 shot

And, my car won't start this morning....... Yes folks I think I cooked it.

i shouldn't be laughing....

hope you get her fixed bud

check the plugs, fuel pressure, and what is happening when you try to start it ---

if you want put the stock plugs in and DO NOT SPRAY see if it starts

what do you have the current plugs gapped at?

doubt you "cooked it" if you threw a rod or spun a bearing it would most likely start with a knock

When I try to turn it over if I give it gas, it will hesitate, then loudly chugs to life, like a misfire or detonation. Then the car dies. The plugs are gapped at .040. I was driving last night, not spraying, thought i was about to get rear ended, and gunned it. When I let off the car died.

Plain as that. I do have an A/f meter, and a tach driver. I disconnected the tach driver, and that didn't make a difference.

You have any ideas?

Just changed my plugs back, to the stock platinums. SOMEWHAT better.

You are running too rich. Your car will pop and sputter if you're adding too much fuel. The fuel will sit in the "cup" of your intake manifold and release vapors all night, so when you try to start your car the next morning, you have to open the throttle all the way to let alot of air in (to match all the gas vapors already in there. Once you get it started, it idles funny, yes? To clear it out drive on the highway at part throttle for a couple miles and it should start driving normal for you again. If I remember correctly I thought you were running too rich last time you posted about your car "disliking" nitrous. Check your jetting to see if it matches the chart given to you by the kit's company. Make sure you do not have the jets mixed up or you will be severely rich. The best thing you could do right now is clear it out, and don't spray again untill you can either get on a dyno or install an innovatinve wideband 02 sensor and guage. Also, if you have the correct jets in, make sure your bottle pressure is up to par. A 600 psi bottle pressure will kill your A/F ratio. Bottle pressure should be around 1000 psi or so, give or take to tune it.


<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Nitrosig13303.JPG>

Pardon my ignorance, but i am using a dry kit. Will I still get fuel puddling in the manifold?

When I pulled the plugs, cylinder 3 seemed to have a lot of fuel on the plug.....

I did check the jetting, and it was right for the chart provided.

My bottle pressure is sitting right at 950.

I'll go try to take the car for a spin and see what happens.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Now I'm really baffled. I'm sorry I assumed you were running a wet kit. I guess it's time for you to take the kit off the car. If your car is running like that on a dry kit, you may be killing it.


<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Nitrosig13303.JPG>

Yea, thats odd. My car did almost the same thing when I first sprayed. Come to find out I had over-tightened the n2o line. So it was getting no nitrous and all fuel. Flooded the @!#$ outta the car. Was kinda scarry to hit the button and have the car fall on its face.

That's odd. I don't think that's the problem here, but I could be wrong.

So here it is, and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The car is currently at the dealership. There is no compression in #3 cylinder. The dealer hasn't taken the head off yet, so not exacI've etly sure what the problem is. So far I've been told it could be anything from a valve to a whole new engine.

Dealer said as the car sits, it was likely putting out about 260 hp.

So, I looked into what it would cost me to get the head pulled and machined, rebuilt with stronger valve springs, and ti retainers at an independent performance shop. I was told porting and polishing the head would possibly be detrimental on this car, and that in terms of port matching, when they pulled an eco head last weekend, it was already port matched?

To run a 65 shot of nitrous, since I'm likely looking at having the head rebuilt, what would everyone here recommend doing. I was advised a triple angle valve job would be good.

I'm also thinking adjustable cam gears. Who has had head work done on an eco? To what extent did you have it machined, and what result did you get?

Thanks guys.

260hp and u were running a 55 shot? i doubt it. i think something was weak in the engine before n2o and this just pushed it over the edge

I had set the spray to 100 hp. I picked up the jets from Zex.

I've been told that the car was likely putting down 260+ before she went for her last spin. All I can say is it pulled hard for just under 10 seconds, and now it's time for some internal upgrades.

I'm not asking for what people think the car was putting out, cuz whatever it was was obviously too much for stock internals. I am wondering what upgrades people have done to their internals.

I see you run nitrous.

Any suggestions?

Ouch, that sux.

Time for some patriot performance heads.


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I have an 03 Cavalier 5spd. <img src=http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/tinytim12333/timmy.gif> TIMMAY

That's what I was thinking. I've looked into having my head done over.

I pulled the head, looks like I floated an intake valve in #3. The spring seems to be weaker than the rest, in turn the valve bent. But having my head machined, buying valves, springs and retainers is getting close to the cost of an RSM head. Anyone using the Patriot stage 2 head?

I got a quote on a price, and sounds like what I want. Just want to know how it seems to help the car.