Hey guys,
I'm running a 2200 turbocharged right now sitting at 11psi on stock internals.... ya I know 11 psi on stock internals is a lot.... no worries I have tuning gods up here in CANADA eh ...........
n e ways my question is.....
"does anyone know at which distance from the throttle body the dry n20 nozzle can be placed so that the n20 is atomonized by the time it hits the tb .... I want the nitrous to cool the air not enter the tb ............. so I need to know ...
should I place the dry kit's nozzle on the hot side of the intercooler just before the intercooler..... to give the n20 time to atomonize before it hits the tb..........
this is just to bring my intake air temperatures down a little bit .........
I thought a 50 shot would do .....
any one ??
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
well I wouldn't put it on there unless less you turn down boost to like 6 or 7psi
with nitruos you'll end up spiking up to what u run your turbo know
and with a sudden burst like that I don't wanna see u snap a rod or screw up
the head but yes no less than 6 inches from the tb
Lee wrote:Hey guys,
"does anyone know at which distance from the throttle body the dry n20 nozzle can be placed so that the n20 is atomonized by the time it hits the tb .... I want the nitrous to cool the air not enter the tb ............. so I need to know ...
should I place the dry kit's nozzle on the hot side of the intercooler just before the intercooler..... to give the n20 time to atomonize before it hits the tb..........
this is just to bring my intake air temperatures down a little bit .........
Lee
Just so you realize, the nitrous will still enter the tb no matter how far back you mount the nozzle. It has to go somewhere, and through the engine is where it will go. It will just be warmer than usual. You'll still go lean though, because you are not changing the fact that it is N20 and not atmospheric air.
Jus' backing up what Nitro said... Sounds like you're under the impression the nitrous vanishes.
Law of conservation of matter my friend...
What about an N-tercooler ???? will that still cool the air .... and not enter the tb....
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
running a dry kit on a turbo car is not smart, and the ntercooler sprays co2 on the intercooler droping intake temps, it does not enter the air rotation of the motor
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Boosted2point4 wrote:running a dry kit on a turbo car is not smart, and the ntercooler sprays co2 on the intercooler droping intake temps, it does not enter the air rotation of the motor
I understand that the N-tercooler is not for using nitrous in the intake system, and that its just used to pass n20 through the intercooler and cool the air passing through the intercooler........
Why is a dry system on a turbo kit a bad Idea ????
is it okay if I use an N-tercooler with a dry system since it's not getting within the pressurized intake system..........
and are the benefits of using nitrous large enough for me to even consider using it ..... or should I just stay with my Intercooled set up and continue running my 11 psi on stock internals ???
what about a home made water injection kit on the intercooler....... using wiper spray nozzles..... (not those light up ones
) for hot days.... because I know the hot days next summer will KILL my performance !
Lee
JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...
If I were you I would continue running the set up you have. Instead of messing with the Nitrous. I would upgrade internals and up the boost.
Nitrous would maybe help if you had a big turbo and were looking to help it spool up there. But I believe the Nitrous and the turbo are way too much for the stock internals of the 2200..
http://registry.gmenthusiast.com/images/importkilla32/Bullit.JPG
Water/ Alcohol Injection all the way.
dry is just nitrous, you wana run a wet kit with turbo app. in imo just in general, wet adds fuel and nitrous so your not leaning out your motor.
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
Yea I dont think it would be worth your time and money to do what you want to do. If I were you I would get the cryo intercooler kit and cool the air down that way and upgrade the internals, that should make you happy in the pants.
Boosted2point4 wrote:dry is just nitrous, you wana run a wet kit with turbo app. in imo just in general, wet adds fuel and nitrous so your not leaning out your motor.
Exactly.
Also lee, like you said, you're already pushing the limit as of now, adding nitrous (whether dry or wet) is going to wear even more on your internals. I say you save your money and work your bottom because honestly, it's not worth blowing your engine and possibly causing physical damage to your block for a little bit of nitrous.
If I'm not mistaken, nitrous isn't really needed...why not just up the PSI if you want more gains? I'm sure you're not maxing out your turbo. This way you can tune more to the needs of X amount of PSI instead of a dry shot of nitrous being added and having to try and guess tune to the right amount of fuel you need....just seems easier and more logical to me.
www.kronosperformance.com / 732-742-8837
I have a built 2200 with 14 psi and a 50 hp wet kit, you want to run wet, thezse little motor or not made like the 2.4 or the eco, you ahve to be really careful if you have a stock bottom end too, i recommend changeing that before you do anything else
fully built 2200-TO4E T3/T4-HP tuners-373hp @18psi
^
I bet the origional poster will not reply considering the post is 2 yrs old.....just a thought
^^^not only that but lee doesnt even have the cav anymore....
