Hey guys I’ve run up and down the different threads to find info specific to what I’m trying to accomplish. Here is what I’m working with and my goals for the build. Any feedback would be great, thanks.
My goals, parts and mods list for my 96 Z24 Cavalier. It’s the LD9 2.4 motor with the 4T40E 4 speed auto trans. First of all, here are my goals.
I want to stay under $10,000 for the build.
I want to run a 75-100 shot for drag racing at the track.
I want at least 300 crank horsepower.
I would hope to get in the 13s in the quarter mile.
I want it to be comfortable to drive as my daily driver, so I will not be running nitrous on the street.
Parts list and mods:
Engine
secret cams (maybe), alum pulleys, motor mounts, MSD DIS-2 or MSD retard module-jegs (retard timing -3), forged pistons & rods, arp main and head studs, iridium spark plugs-2 colder (need a current part number), 62 mm throttle body, ported intake manifold, valve work (need suggestions), true cold air intake (not ram air), 2.3L oil pump, and wet nitrous kit (75-100 shot, blow down tube, bottle heater, WOT switch, purge kit and fuel pressure safety switch).
Exhaust
Custom header, high flow cat, 3 inch tubing throughout, and a high flow muffler (not decided on muffler yet; flowmaster 60 series, magnaflow, borla, suggestions?).
Gauges
Auto Meter Ultra-Lite gauges as follows: MPH, RPM, trans, oil, water, fuel, volts and nos. Three of them will be on a 3 pillar pod, and the rest integrated into the factory gauge space in the dash (custom dash plate).
Fuel
Walbro 255 fuel pump. I need bigger injectors, but which ones (just need some good info)? I have some venom injectors in mind, but I’m open to suggestions. I plan to run at least 91 oct fuel.
Suspension/Wheels
2 inch drop lowering springs, 300 hp rated axles, strut and sway bar upgrades, 17 inch ADR wheels wrapped with 215/45/17R tires.
Trans
Trans cooler, trans mount, modified automatic shifter (they stick up way too high stock; ugly).
Questions
Is there anything anyone would add or suggest to do differently? It’s a 96, so should I update the ecu from a 97+ Cavi for tuning purposes? What would be the best set up for me concerning a head? Port and polish with a valve job? What are some opinions on removing a/c for a little added power? Is it worth it?
2004 Cavalier Sedan
Thanks for everyones help...not
Screw nos, changed my mind and going turbo now.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
Haha I feel your pain this place is dead. I don't have anything helpful to say, I have never ran NOS and my turbo experience is only on my factory LNF (not cobalt). Good luck with you build. Though with a 10k budget you are only a few grand away from a LNF Cobalt....
-I drive my car to work-
what do you want to know? if you wanted questions on a build the better place to ask would have been the performance forum. if there's some specific questions about nitrous you'd like answered post it up or pm me i'd be glad to help. if you have questions about boost, guess which forum you should be asking questions in?.........
as far as the one question i did see, yes you should definately swap ecu's from 96 to 97. should basically be the first thing you do.
Thanks guys. So I am for sure going turbo now. Thanks for the ecu swap confirmation though blucavvy. I already got the ecu, and I'm just waiting on the harness to make the swap. I did also ask about the air conditioner...would it be beneficial performance wise to remove it?
2004 Cavalier Sedan
good weight savings, and it's kind of an open debate on how much actual parasitic drag it puts on the engine, but yeah, if you don't need it get it out definately.
I think I just might get rid of the a/c since I'm moving to Colorado soon. Doesn't get too hot there. Thanks
2004 Cavalier Sedan
I answered you in your other post...
-MD- Enforcer wrote:I want to run a 75-100 shot for drag racing at the track.
A 100 shot is probably not going to get you 300whp, even with a built motor. Most NA build motors only get 175whp at the most. Complete well thought out builds no more than 200whp.
I want at least 300 crank horsepower.
I would hope to get in the 13s in the quarter mile.
That being said. You can run 13's with a 100 shot fairly easy.
I want it to be comfortable to drive as my daily driver, so I will not be running nitrous on the street.
Running Nitrous is dumb and illegal in most states for street use.
Parts list and mods:
Engine
secret cams (maybe), alum pulleys, motor mounts, MSD DIS-2 or MSD retard module-jegs (retard timing -3), forged pistons & rods, arp main and head studs, iridium spark plugs-2 colder (need a current part number), 62 mm throttle body, ported intake manifold, valve work (need suggestions), true cold air intake (not ram air), 2.3L oil pump, and wet nitrous kit (75-100 shot, blow down tube, bottle heater, WOT switch, purge kit and fuel pressure safety switch).
You can do all the time stuff with HPTuners. You probably will not need a 62mm TB, with out larger cams than "secret cams". I would not go with over sized valves, since this has killed low end, and you'll need a lot with that 4T40E trans. With a 100 shot you want a RPM window switch, and probably a progressive controller.
Exhaust
Custom header, high flow cat, 3 inch tubing throughout, and a high flow muffler (not decided on muffler yet; flowmaster 60 series, magnaflow, borla, suggestions?).
I would get a 4-2-1 header, and not a 4-1 header. Maybe run a cutout for the track...
Gauges
Auto Meter Ultra-Lite gauges as follows: MPH, RPM, trans, oil, water, fuel, volts and nos. Three of them will be on a 3 pillar pod, and the rest integrated into the factory gauge space in the dash (custom dash plate).
What ever makes you happy, but make sure you have a GOOD QUALITY WIDEBAND!.
Fuel
Walbro 255 fuel pump. I need bigger injectors, but which ones (just need some good info)? I have some venom injectors in mind, but I’m open to suggestions. I plan to run at least 91 oct fuel.
I would run a racetronix W-body fuel pump. It is cheap, pretty much a direct plug-n-play, and is a re-badged Walbro 255 pump. You'll need to calculate the correct size injectors for 300HP, and you'll need a larger injector for the wet shot.
Suspension/Wheels
2 inch drop lowering springs, 300 hp rated axles, strut and sway bar upgrades, 17 inch ADR wheels wrapped with 215/45/17R tires.
i wouldn't run a two inch drop, because your lower a-arms will be below horizontal. Like this..... O\_/O You want your lower a-arms to be parallel to the ground like this. O--_--O. Eibach Pro-kit accomplishes this very well. I would run KYB AGX sturts with the springs. This is a very good reliable setup. Also, you want lightweight rims & tires for racing. Those axles will fail fast with daily driver use / street use.
Trans
Trans cooler, trans mount, modified automatic shifter (they stick up way too high stock; ugly).
You may need to "build" the trans, and get somesort of LSD and a high stall converter. Look up "4T40E rebuild" in trans forum.
Questions
Is there anything anyone would add or suggest to do differently? It’s a 96, so should I update the ecu from a 97+ Cavi? What would be the best set up for me concerning a head? Port and polish with a valve job? What are some opinions on removing a/c for a little added power? Is it worth it?
First look up how to swap from your 96 harness to a 97 harness, so you can tune with HPTuners.
I would do the 97 swap first. Then do the suspension, and brakes. If you can not put the power to the ground there is no use for more HP.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Thanks -MD- Enforcer, but like I mentioned in this post I decided to go turbocharged over a month ago now. I understand about the suspension drop. Now I'm looking to get Koni Yellows and eibach sportline springs. Also, I am not getting the 300hp axles, but I am replacing the susp bushings to poly for more support to prevent wheel hop. For the trans I got an LSD insert from Team Green, Hayden trans cooler, B&M shift plus and I've heard I can use HPT to make other trans adjustments, too. I'll run it like that till I goes out on me, then I'll ''rebuild'' it. Also, I've already got a 97 ecu and a 98 wiring harness in order to use HPT. I'm also ordering a W-body racetronix fuel pump this week! And I have siemens 60lb injectors. I am also ordering either a innovate or aem wideband. Leaning toward aem though. I am NOT getting oversized valves, and I am looking to use secret cams and I already have a 2.3L 56mm throttle body. If you care to check out my profile all my parts listed are either already at my dad's shop ready for install or in route or we're ordering this week! Just ordered the wiseco piston set today! I know I don't deserve any right now, but I hope to earn some peoples respect on here after my build is done come Dec. And the only reason it'll take that long is because I'm in Korea right now for the army, but I'm coming back soon.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
wanarace2345 wrote:Thanks -MD- Enforcer, but like I mentioned in this post I decided to go turbocharged over a month ago now. I understand about the suspension drop. Now I'm looking to get Koni Yellows and eibach sportline springs. Also, I am not getting the 300hp axles, but I am replacing the susp bushings to poly for more support to prevent wheel hop. For the trans I got an LSD insert from Team Green, Hayden trans cooler, B&M shift plus and I've heard I can use HPT to make other trans adjustments, too. I'll run it like that till I goes out on me, then I'll ''rebuild'' it. Also, I've already got a 97 ecu and a 98 wiring harness in order to use HPT. I'm also ordering a W-body racetronix fuel pump this week! And I have siemens 60lb injectors. I am also ordering either a innovate or aem wideband. Leaning toward aem though. I am NOT getting oversized valves, and I am looking to use secret cams and I already have a 2.3L 56mm throttle body. If you care to check out my profile all my parts listed are either already at my dad's shop ready for install or in route or we're ordering this week! Just ordered the wiseco piston set today! I know I don't deserve any right now, but I hope to earn some peoples respect on here after my build is done come Dec. And the only reason it'll take that long is because I'm in Korea right now for the army, but I'm coming back soon.
actually, it sounds like youv'e got things pretty well laid out.
who's tuning your car?
First it will be done by my dad who is an ASE certified tech who builds drag race cars for a living along with your reg auto repair. That'll be done in Arkansas, then after I move out west (much higher elevation) I have an old friend/co-worker at Paul's Auto and 4x4 in Utah that is also ASE and a UTI grad who uses HPT on a regular basis for many years now. He is very familiar with tuning up to 1000 HP hot rods, so I believe I'm covered as far as tune goes.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
well, i know you don't want to hear it but you may want to at least do some basic researching on the j-body ecu. lot's of GOOD tuners think they can handle it just fine and come to find out that the j ecu is not as easy to tune as they thought it would be.
whole different animal than tuning a "hot rod". just some forewarning bud.
I have gotten more specific info from Addicted to Meth about the ecu. one way or another we'll get her figured out when that time comes. thanks for the heads up.
2004 Cavalier Sedan
