i just hooked up a 200 watt amp to my pioneer rear deck speakers and a 600 watt amp to my 2 rockford 12's. now the problem is my rear deck speakers keep cutting out when i turn the music up and the subs dont seem to be hitting that hard. any suggestions or comments would be nice thank you

i think the problem is.... its a dual amp.



car audio noob since 1984.

200 watt and 600 watt...are those figures per channel or overall power..and is that RMS or Peak power? If that is RMS power, you might need a little more DC to supply that much thump.

Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:i think the problem is.... its a dual amp.

thats part of it but if its clipping out your speakers are either blown or wired incorrectly....they are probably wired incorrectly double check everything

Definitely check the polarity of the speaker hookups, and maybe try swapping some just to make sure. Assuming your electrical system is holding up, it sounds like they're canceling each other out.




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my mistake its not a dual amp its two amps i worded that wrong its actually two SS autotek amps and those figures are in RMS and you may be right about the extra power because i rechecked everything and it all seems good.

check to make sure your RCAs are on the right amps and recheck your wiring because i am sending more than that to just 1 10" plus the 4 channel for the comps and rear fill. I am sure guys are pulling more through their stock system.

also have someone else double check your amp settings, remember gain does not equal volume

I had the exact same problem with the amps turning off when the volume went up. The audio shop I went to said it could be either wiring or a bad speaker. For my case, it ended up beeing a bad sub. When I replaced the sub, it fixed the problem.

if your amps are cutting off and dropping voltage when they hit, you need to check your power and ground getting to the amps. they may be getting a bad connection, and having a solid power AND GROUND is very important for tight bass and good sounding music.

make sure your amps are grounded to a SANDED metal surface that's not at all restricted to ground. dont use seat belt anchors, they are often made of hardened steel with high resistance. check your body ground at the battery. remember, if you had to run a 4 gauge wire to feed it, the ground's gotta be there to catch it. it's ALWAYS a good idea to run a large body ground to the battery, even if you dont have a high current system. in reality, DC current actually flows through the circuit from negative to positive. easiest thing to do is watch the amps while you crank it up. if the lights dim a lot, it may be showing you a weak connection. also, if the amps get hotter than you think is reasonable for the air space around it, that's a sign of a weak connection too.

if you really want to get technical about it, you can use a multi meter. i bought a 17 dollar meter at wal mart years ago and it's lasted me on the same freakin battery. it's the generic yellow case one, i know you all know what im talkin about. anyway, just get one and run your system, then use the meter to check voltage AT THE AMP TERMINALS while it's cranked. check under the hood at the battery that you are reading 12-15 volts with the car running to be sure youve got the meter set right, and remember that number. when you check the numbers at the amp, if it's much lower than your reading under the hood at all, that's a bad sign right there. if the voltage drops at the amp terminals when the bass hits, but it doesnt drop under the hood, thats a dead give away.

Im such a freak about a good ground that i experimented with something i learned about on this site back in the day, and that's equal length grounds. running a ground cable thats the same standard as your power cable, all the way to the negative terminal on the battery. that's hands down the best way to hook up a system, but the question was, did it make a difference and was it worth doing. i thought it was, my bass was tighter, hit faster, rolled smoother and pumped louder with my equal length ground... just something to think about

thats an interesting idea and i checked everything with a volt meter and my remote wire is the one the is jumping around voltage wise, so thats the problem im just not sure how to fix it.

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thats an interesting idea and i checked everything with a volt meter and my remote wire is the one the is jumping around voltage wise, so thats the problem im just not sure how to fix it

yeah that'll do it do. run the remote wire to a relay then use the relay to turn on your amps. two amps isnt a big draw on the remote turn on lead though, its also possible there's a short in the remote wire between the HU and the amps.

14.82 @ 97 mph

yup that was it i hooked up a relay and they work nicely now