This is what I was planning on for my system.
amp kit head unit amp for speakers 6X9's 6.5's. I liked that head-unit because it had separate preamp outputs for front rear and sub-woofer. But in the amp kit i listed above it looks like it has one rca cable with red and white jacks. Will I need another cable for either the front or rear speakers? Second from what Ive researched that amp should have no prob powering the type s's. But I just want to make sure because I want to do it right the first time around. Thanks
should work. but im not sure if you can hook up both preouts to one amp. (dont have much experience with four channel amps)
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Thanks for the reassurace Anton. So does anyone have any idea about the preouts? Also the amp kit comes with 10 gauge wire, is that gonna be a low enough gauge for the amp or should I go with 8?
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOLAK84
much better than the wire you had picked out.
And yes you run 4 rca's to the amp (2 pairs) 1 for each speaker. that amp kit i linked to comes with 2 sets which is what you need.
with the kit above you picked you would need to buy another set of rca's.
here is a better picture of the side. if you decide to add another amp for a sub later you COULD run another set of rca's of the "AUX INPUT" to the input of the sub amp.
go with at least 8 gauge wiring....
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
Thats what Im planning on doing later, adding an amp and a sub. Im plannin on goin with this
amp and this
sub. I think that should be a pretty good setup. I never thought that I could just run rca cables from the aux port on the JBL amp to the Alpine one. I was under the impression that I had to run cables from the headunit to the sub amp.
you could do that..... acutally i would so you could use the sub control on your radio. I mean it would work that way but if you faded the sound to the front you sub output would go down. i say just run 3 sets of rca's total.
And that amp is way to much for one of those subs. I hope you meant 2 of them. also if your planning on adding a sub-amp later you will need ATLEAST 4 gague with that sub amp. I would run 4 gauge now and buy distribution blocks later when you add the sub.
Stephen wrote:you could do that..... acutally i would so you could use the sub control on your radio. I mean it would work that way but if you faded the sound to the front you sub output would go down. i say just run 3 sets of rca's total.
And that amp is way to much for one of those subs. I hope you meant 2 of them. also if your planning on adding a sub-amp later you will need ATLEAST 4 gague with that sub amp. I would run 4 gauge now and buy distribution blocks later when you add the sub.
he got a dual 2 ohm sub so that amp would give the sub 600 watts at 4 ohms.... that amp is perfect for that sub...... i agree with the 4 gauge or higher and the distribution blocks tho....
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
Thats a waste, you could buy a smaller amp that will run at 1ohm for less.
you get a higher THD at lower impedances
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
Chris Rogerson wrote:you get a higher THD at lower impedances
by what less that 1%, do you think you are really going to hear that through a type-r?
Chris Rogerson wrote:you get a higher THD at lower impedances
do me a favor, find an amp that puts out 600w at 1ohm, then one that puts out 600w at 4ohms, change NOTHING between the amps and run the same exact sub on them... tell me that you can hear the difference and i will tell you that you are completely full of @!#$.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
Thank you for the input guys, and I was plannin on running the sub at 4 ohms, I was reading through other threads on here about type-r's and that amp-sub combo is money. Im not looking to dump tons of money to make as loud of a system as I can, I want a clean sounding one. I was also reading about running the higher gauge wire for the power to the sub amp. Question with the distribution block. Would I run say a low gauge wire (4 or 2) into the block then that would split off into the separate power wires for my amps. That is what i can gather from it. Also I was reading on how to power the head unit. It looks as tho alot of people use a wire tap and tap into the 12V wire for the wiper blades. Are there any other easier or alternative ways of doing it? I dont mind tapping into them I just dont wnat to screw anythign up with this being my first audio insatall and all. Thanks
bump...anyone know about the fuse tap??
JLAudioCavalier wrote:Chris Rogerson wrote:you get a higher THD at lower impedances
do me a favor, find an amp that puts out 600w at 1ohm, then one that puts out 600w at 4ohms, change NOTHING between the amps and run the same exact sub on them... tell me that you can hear the difference and i will tell you that you are completely full of @!#$.
JL,
what crawled up your vag today?
i stated two simple facts and for some reason your throwing a bitch fit.
at 1 ohm you will have a higher THD than at 4 ohms, however unnoticeable it may be.
sealed boxes do have flatter response curves than ported boxes.
i know your highly respected in this forum but seriously pull your head out of your ass.
your opinion is not law.
Chris
"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin
^^JBO is about not being that guy
Chris Rogerson wrote:JLAudioCavalier wrote:Chris Rogerson wrote:you get a higher THD at lower impedances
do me a favor, find an amp that puts out 600w at 1ohm, then one that puts out 600w at 4ohms, change NOTHING between the amps and run the same exact sub on them... tell me that you can hear the difference and i will tell you that you are completely full of @!#$.
JL,
what crawled up your vag today?
i stated two simple facts and for some reason your throwing a bitch fit.
at 1 ohm you will have a higher THD than at 4 ohms, however unnoticeable it may be.
sealed boxes do have flatter response curves than ported boxes.
i know your highly respected in this forum but seriously pull your head out of your ass.
your opinion is not law.
Chris
how about if i agreed with JL would that help settle things. yes going from 4 ohms to 1 ohm will increase distortion. about 15 years ago that used to be a concern because amps had allot more distortion in them. now a days the distortion levels on any halfway decent amp is good enough that it really doesnt matter. it generally takes 3% distortion for a highly trained ear to hear. for the average listener it can get as high as 5% distortion before its noticable. most amps are usually at 1% or lower when properly tuned at ohms as low as 1 and 2 ohms. so 99% of the time in this day and age the added distortion isnt an issue.
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so anyone know about tapping into the wiper 12V wire to power the head unit? Any other ways of doing it?
there are a few other ways actaully...i tapped in to the cruise control on mine before i got the proper harness....I would spend the money on the right harness, you will get better power from it then tapping into soemthing else.
Gotcha, but Im having trouble finding a harness just for power. I keep on finding ones that have wires for the stock speakers, however I am replacing those and rewireing everything to my amp. So would I just buy this
harness and plug it into the stock one. And just not have the speaker wires leading to anything? Or is there something Im missing here?
im going to agree with sndsgood and JL. I didnt even have to read what they wrote. I know they wont spew off useless bull@!#$.
Is this the harness I need, even though Im using non factory speakers.
link. I need a harness just for power, so would I leave the wires for the stock speakers in the car and have the ends lead to nothing?
yup
http://www.jbodytuner.com
^^ The real jbody store!!!!!
I don't exactly have anything up my ass or "in my vag". I agree with you, 600w at 1ohm and 600w at 4 ohm, you get different distortion levels. But the point I was trying to make is exactly what Jason said. You will NOT hear it in the amps made today. Nothing I said in that post was my opinion, it was just... kinda.... the truth. So I don't know where you got this idea that I think my opinion is law from reading a post that didn't have one bit of opinion in it lol.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
Heres a little update and some more questions. I ordered everything and everythig has come in the mail. The JBL amp was not in stock so they allowed me to pick out a differant one in a similar price range. So I got the Power Acoustik OV4-1600, it puts out 150 RMS watts at 4 ohmsX4 channels. My Type S's require 50-60 rms so the amp should not have a problem powering them, it is the speakers that Im worried about now. Is this amp gonna be to much for them?
Second the headunit came with its own adaptor with wire connections, I also got the Schoschse one for the GM models. I am assuming that I will plug the GM adaptor one into the one already in the car. Then solder the wires together that I need between the Kenwood and Schosche one?
Kenwood wires and colors-
Yellow-battery wire
Red-Ignition wire
Black-Ground
Orange- Dimmer control
Blue-motor antenna control wire(manual says depending on what antenna you are using, connect either to the control terminal of the motor antenna, or to the power terminal for the booster amplifier of the film-type antenna)
Blue w/white- power control(manual says connect either to the power control terminal whne using the optional power amplifier, or to the antenna control terminal in the vehicle)
Schochse wires and colors-
Yellow- 12V Constant
Red- Ignition/switched 12V
Black Ground
Black w/white- amplifier ground
Orange- illumination/dash light
Orange w/white- dimmer
Blue- power antenna
Blue w/white- amp turn on
Common sense would tell me to solder the yellow together and red together. Then solder the black and black together. Then on the Schosche one is the amp ground one meant for the stock amp already in the car? Then would I solder the orange Kenwood wire to the orange/white Schosche one since they are both dimmer and leave the orange Schosche one alone? Then I would take the amp turn on from the Schosche one and wire that straight to my amp or would it have to be paired with one of the Kenwood ones? Or is there something else I have to do with the blue and blue/white between the two?
Thanks everyone
