Anyone know the factory resistance on the high beams???
After putting in my HIDs, i'm throwing a code for the DRLS, they blink a few times (while the relay clicks) and then i get the Check (Wrench) light. After scanning the code on the Tech 2, i found it was due to low resistance and if i knew what the resistance is supposed to be, i can match what i have with a resistor.
thanks!!
Disable DRL's.....problem solved
M62, 42's, ZZP 3", ZZP S3 H/E
214whp 190wtq
Wont low voltage of the DRLs burn up your HIDs?
negative, i have a dual HID with filaments for High Beams... so the HID Portion won't be affected at all
Post pix or links of this HID + filament bulb?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
But just FYI, P=I*V and V=I*R, so you should be able to calculate the theoretical resistance. But the problem you described doesn't sound like you need to add a resistor; which is why I would like see bulb or kit you described.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
well i can't find any good pics online. Basically i plug the 9007 adapter in to the main light socket (off the car, that would plug in to a standard bulb), from there, there are the wires running to the ballast and then smaller wires running to a white socket that plugs into a harness off the bulb. so the bulb has the two HID wires and the ones of the white socket. If you look at the bulb, you see in the back a filament and the HID material in the front. (they are called 9007 Bi Filament HIDs)
When the Tech 2 scanned the codes, it said "DRL Low Resistance" so i'm assuming the high beams in my HIDs aren't as strong as regular bulbs and not drawling enough to create as much resistance.... If i can find out what the factory resistance is that the BCM is looking for, and then take a Ohmmeter and see what mine are drawling, i can then add a resister behind the switch and trick the BCM in to thinking that the high beams are at the right resistance.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, July 12, 2009 6:17 PM
Sure, but you'll likely need a resistor rated for 50W or so, good luck finding one of those.
If you have access to a tech2, just disable the DRLs and save yourself the headaches. I've been dealing with a system where I CAN'T disable the DRLs and I needed to use a switching comparator transistor circuit and it got burned up twice before I got it working.
Well couldn't i splice in a second socket and hide a set of normal 9007s somewhere... that should get the resistance back... does it throw a code for too much resistance????
You would be fine with that, as long as you ran the HIDs off a relay being turned on by that wire.
Good luck hiding 9007s though.
well the HIDs are ran off the low beam... i wouldn't spice that... just the high beam wire and the common ground.
There isn't a common ground, there's a common hot.
I wasn't able to find any close up pix of a bi-filament hid setup.
But I realize now what your problem is - if you're using the 00 Z listed in your sig, you are assuming that the DRL works off the high beam. This is incorrect.
In the 00-02 cars, the DRL works off BOTH the low and high beams. Low and high beams are put in parallel per headlight and each headlight is put in series with each other. This is what creates the DRL load.
In the 95-99 cars, the DRL is run off the high beams only (in series). In the 03-05 cars I'm unsure, because there was a large looking resistor in the passenger side fender area that I never had a chance to research.
So your HID low beam ballasts are getting in the way (and maybe being messed up) every time your DRL tries to flip on.
We're telling you.......disable the DRL's.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -
