Just to start, sorry i have to post this question. I have been doing my research and spending lots of time trying to figure this out on my own, I think I am on the right track but from what i have been reading her, some of you guys sound like real professionals. So if you guys could help me out that would be great, and please don't put my lack of knowledge down for as of 2 weeks ago I have known absolutely nothing about car audio. I just got a 95 Cavalier (first car) and its not even on the road yet. haha
also, If this question is exactly like another already, a'm sorry anf please forward me to that post.
Anyways. i got a really good deal on some subs on boxing day, just need help figuring out what amp i can buy that will a.) run these subs hard b.) decent price.
there are two Pioneer Premier 12" Champion Series Pro Car Sub-woofer (
TSW3002D2 ). These are dual 2-ohm voice coils.
1000w rms/sub
I am going to wire them so either a 2-ohm amp will work or... IF POSSIBLE TO FIND a 0.5-ohm amp ( I used the following web-sight to figure out these set up choices:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=2&woofer_imp=3 )
Im really hoping to get 1000w to each sub, so correct me if my following choices are correct:
1. mono-amp: 2000w x 1 @ 2-ohm
2. mono-amp: 2000w x 1 @ 0.5-ohm
3. 2-channel amp: 1000w x 2 @ 2-ohm <-- maybe ???
I am hoping to buy an amp that will put 1000w to each sub for
under $500, is that possible? And if so, can you guys suggest some amps for me please?
and If this is totally out of the question, would it be better to buy a cheaper, less powerful amp for the 2 subs OR just have one sub poweredmore. I here under powering is quite bad.
* If it matters: I plan on building my own ported box. Ill seal off each sub from one another and have a separate vent for each sub.
*
I am aiming more for SPL.
Thanks guys, hope you can help and this will answer others questions also.
and part of the reason i want 1000w to each sub is im worried about under powering and losing alot of these subs potentials. If running them at less power will not damage them, but still sound great and be efficient, im ok with doing that.
Maybe that makes finding an appropriate amp for under $500 easier.
Opti2000D. Will do a little over 2k@ 1/2 ohm daily.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
I looked that up and it's saying 2000 @ 0.5-ohm is that max? so wouldnt the rms only be like 1000, so then only 500w to each sub?
No, it's RMS. The amp does around 4k max. It's a stout amp, actually does a little better than rated
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
Ok Great.
So ill wire my subs to 0.5-ohms (like Wiring Option #1 on that link above) a and use the Lanzar OPTI2000D. This amp will put appoximately 1000w to each sub?
This is my best choice for power and price?
if so, what kind of fuse will I need? 10 amp/100w?
um.... please dont run the amp at .5 ohms if you dont have the electrical to back it up. .5 ohms is very power hungry. i owuld go for an amp that does what you need at 2 ohms or maybe 2 straped. for cheap power im going to say power acoustik, they never failed me. but if you want top opf the line you must go with sundown. good luck finding one under 500$ tho.
click sig for my car audio videos
Hard to get for under $500 even online? and how is it bad for my electrical? what can i do to make it ok, I know the guy i bough the car from had to change to a more powerfull alternator to run everything. Is that of any importance?
well, i dound some power acoustik that will put around 1000w to each sub at 2-ohms. what gauge of cable can i use from the batery to amp, and amp to speakers?
well with 2000 wrms i will have to say you will need 1/0 minimal, and remember you cant go too big with wire. im saying you could get 2 power acoustik BAMF 2000/1D amplifiers and strap them together and get your 1000 wrms to each sub with no problem, its a very simple process. I had one of these amplifiers and i was very happy with it untill i found my rockford 1500 at a pawn shop. the amp was strong and not power hungry, my stock alt handled it nicely. over rated? yes, but i knew that i wasnt going to get 1200 wrms out of it. but i did get about 900 wrms out of an amp that cost 160$. cant go wrong.
click sig for my car audio videos
alright, but is strapping 2 together better then just getting one Power Acoustik BAMF55001/D ? the 5500 will work out to be cheaper and put a little more wattage out? I understand though if there is more to it then i know... what do you think?
i guess the Power Acoustik A3000DB would be better. It has an RMS of 1800w @ 2-ohms. so then each sub would be getting 900. that seems good, and it wouldnt be as much of a strain on the battery
Whether it's 2000 watts or 1800 watts, doesn't even matter at what impedence, that power acoustic isn't going to do anywhere near 1800 watts. It'll do closer to 1500 watts.
Anton, again, it doesn't friggin matter if an amp is running at .5 ohm, or 2 ohm, wattage is wattage. There you go spouting off at the mouth AGAIN on things you don't know.
Second, let's say he gets two of those crap amps and straps them. He's paying the same price for one good amp, and guess what? Wattage is going to be slightly more on the Lanzar, there's going to be less distortion, and, (you may want to sit down for this) he's going to need electrical upgrades.
Third, if you check, the opti 2000d can be picked up for a little over 350 brand spanking new shipped.
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
MY GOOD GOD. look it up. the lower the impedience the more power the amp pulls. an amp is more efficient at higher impediences. if you have an amp that is say 80% efficient on delivering power at 2 ohms compared to an amp that is say what 60% efficient delivering the same power at .5 ohms. you sir are way off, just look it up for your self. for same power, 2000wrms @ 2 ohms compared to 2000wrms at .5 ohms and see which one will draw more power. just look at the eficiency and the distortion of .5 ohm compared to 2 ohm. thats all ive said in this thread is you better have the electrical to back up 2000 wrms at .5 ohms. have you ever thought that you may be wrong?
my god man its an information site, not "lanman's what i say is gold" site. quit complaining about my contributions on this site.
click sig for my car audio videos
You do need adequate electrical to back up .5 ohm or youre going to fugg you power supply on your amp up. They dont like huge voltage drops like .5 ohm would cause.
Search the GM large case alt swap. Theres a good write up here and I have some helpful stuff in there from my experience with it. Your stock alt will not cut it. Do the Big 3 also probably in 1/0 or bigger. Look into an Optima Yellow Top or a Kinetik battery (Ive never looked too uch into them. I run a Yellow Top) Id rather have electrical overkill than be having voltage issues.
well guys. this is what im kinda thinking now.
The Power Acoustik A3000DB ( 1800w @ 2-ohms ) can get it for just under $280ca with shipping) I have read quite a few good reviews on that amp.
and you guys have to realize, this is my first car, and first changes to a car. I havent even been in a car with subs for more then 30 seconds before. So im sure I will be quite impressed with what i get from those subs running off that amp. Would you guys agree? Unless you think that Power Acoustik A3000DB will do dammage to the speakers of cause any real problems, it sounds like the best bet for me. If i want more power in the future, and may need to change some wiring for a different amp, i'll worry about it then.
so... in your opinions, will I (a new car owner and driver) be impressed with what comes from the Power Acoustik A3000DB, without changing any electrical in the car?
because it sounds like i will be spending nearly $100 more for the lanzar and may need electrical. HOWEVER, i do have a new and more powerful alternator in the car (previous owner put one in for his subs) So, for however much more, would the lanzar be much better?? or will i be satisfied with the Power Acoustik's?
the bamf 5500 does about 2300 wrms at 1 ohm at 14 volts. so you will not get your full amount you want from that, i know this because i read itfrom a forums that i can not find right now. but they did bench tests on that amp and a Kole 5500 amp, both did the same. so with that said im guessing that the 3000 wont cut it for what you want. but im not sure. Another reason why i said to strap the amps is because then your going to be running each amp at 1 ohm, optimal for those amps to get the most power.
also what to you mean by more powerful alt? do you have specs or amperage read outs of what it does? its a must to have a good electrical in car audio. to figure out how big of an alt you need i would use this method, an average car uses about 50-60 amps to operate, you then add that to your amplifier fuse(s) total or your inline fuse, add them together and thats how big of an alt you should have, because by them fuses being there, the company is telling you that this amp shouldnt draw more than these fuses total rating.
also.... amplifiers dont do damage to speakers, the people controling the amplifiers settings do. a subwoofer is a very stupid machine, it will do exactly what you tell it to do even if it will harm itself. just be cautious. the only reason why underpowering subwoofers is bad is due to the lack of knowledge most people have on setting the gain and NOT using bass boost (or using it in very small portions) you could put those subs on a clean/slightly clipped 500 wrms for ever and they wont even break in most likely. a great example of that is my old power acoustik fubars i had in my cavalier, i had each one on 350 wrms (they handle about 800 wrms each) for over 2 years, they didnt get broken in untill i put them on my BAMF 2000/1D in a buddy of mine's car. the subs were like brand new when i sold them to him, not even broken in. so there really insnt anything bad about under powering, just user error...
click sig for my car audio videos
Alright, sounds good. thanks. and i dont really know anything about the alternator, in fact, I dont really know anything about cars at all. So when i said "more powerful" thats they only way i knew how to describe it. haha, sorry. But im learning!
So I think then ill still use the Power Acoustik A3000DB. it says, 1800 wrms @ 2-ohms, Lanman says theyll only do 1500, but still, 750 to each sub should be fine. If you say your's lasted 2 years and were way "under powered" im sure running my 1000w rms subs each at 750w wont be bad and will sound just fine.
what do you think?
If youre serious about learning about audio look into Steve Meade Designs or Sound Solution Audio forums. Theres a wealth of information on those sights that make most of us look like amateurs.
Everyone on there seems to be jumping on the 3k watt Audiopipe amps since they do rated power and are cheap. If you think you can set the gains properly and take care of your subs, you should look into one of those. Id rather run the Audiopipe than Power Acoustik since Ive heard some Audiopipe gear and I liked it but I cant think of the model number of the amp off hand.
alright,well im in no rush so ill check out those sights and look into thos amps.
Thanks alot
Good man. The more research you do now the happier youll be in the end.
TheSundownFire (JBO Chat) wrote:If youre serious about learning about audio look into Steve Meade Designs or Sound Solution Audio forums. Theres a wealth of information on those sights that make most of us look like amateurs.
Everyone on there seems to be jumping on the 3k watt Audiopipe amps since they do rated power and are cheap. If you think you can set the gains properly and take care of your subs, you should look into one of those. Id rather run the Audiopipe than Power Acoustik since Ive heard some Audiopipe gear and I liked it but I cant think of the model number of the amp off hand.
AP30001D
Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
definatly do your own research. My favorite site is SSA forums, a lot of info on that site and that would be an understatement.
click sig for my car audio videos
Thanks Guys. Been lots of help.
