Sigh Yet Again - Audio & Electronics Forum

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Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:05 PM
Well...I lost another fuse...this one was a 100 watt tube fuse...the solder melted off along with the glue holding the ends on.....So I've decided to start using ANL fuses



Does anyone know how well they work?




Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:13 PM
Much better for higher amp applications.




Your car may do 13 sec @ 103 mph, but my car does 146db @ 35 hz.
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:19 PM
ok thank you...Ya I don't know how but my lil amp keeps burnin through fuses since I bought the new subs



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:23 PM
ANL is the only way to go!

I use a 150 Amp, and have yet to burn it up.



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 4:26 PM
Lol Ya Ive had a 80 plug type fuse, and a 100 tube type so far...



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:09 PM
the fuse is melting off the ends due to current draw,and also if you are cranking it up with out the car running,Remember that a fuse is a resistor if its to small and when trying to pull batt power it will get hot so,You new fuse choice is good,but what are you running for power wire,and how is your ground done,@!#$ty ground will cause more draw through the weakest point which will be your fuse..
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:21 PM
Yeah fuses don't just blow for no reason. People that keep upping the amperage handling of fuse, burn down cars. I will not feel bad when you do this. GET A FUSE THE RIGHT SIZE TO PROTECT THE WIRE. SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT AND THE FUSE BLOWS. IF YOU ARE DRAWING ENOUGH CURRENT TO BLOW A FUSE, A LARGER FUSE WILL MAKE YOUR WIRE BURN UP.

Get it through your @!#$ head that you DO NOT fix fuse blowing issues with larger fuses, you find the @!#$ problem.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

Some say he invented November.
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 5:49 PM
JLAudioCavalier wrote:Yeah fuses don't just blow for no reason. People that keep upping the amperage handling of fuse, burn down cars. I will not feel bad when you do this. GET A FUSE THE RIGHT SIZE TO PROTECT THE WIRE. SOMETHING IS SHORTING OUT AND THE FUSE BLOWS. IF YOU ARE DRAWING ENOUGH CURRENT TO BLOW A FUSE, A LARGER FUSE WILL MAKE YOUR WIRE BURN UP.

Get it through your @!#$ head that you DO NOT fix fuse blowing issues with larger fuses, you find the @!#$ problem.


haha, I was thinking that the whole time but didnt wnt to say anything because I know I'm still a noob at all this.
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:23 PM
Is the positive wire at your amp frayed and shorting against the chassis?



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:31 PM
MAXI fuses suck. And Ive seen them melt before they blow but I agree that its not your amp thats blowing fuses.



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:35 PM
ok,He is not using a maxi fuse,He is using the old glass style fuse,Which do suck,He is not blowing the fuse but he is melting the ends of the fuse...This is due to current draw..

1-The battery is done
2-He is running the system with the car not running.
3-wrong size wire to the amp
4-Or a bad ground can cause this.

Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:55 PM
He said plug type. Which to me is a maxi fuse. And a tube type which is a glass style fuse.



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 6:59 PM
He stated...Tube Fuse,Which to what I know is a Glass fuse..

Here is what he said...

Well...I lost another fuse...this one was a 100 watt tube fuse...the solder melted off along with the glue holding the ends on.....So I've decided to start using ANL fuses
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:06 PM
word_blank wrote:Lol Ya Ive had a 80 plug type fuse, and a 100 tube type so far...


There^^^^^^^



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:10 PM
Well he has had both but according from what I read he is complaining about the glass style one...maybe he should replie to really tell us which one he just had a issue with..
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 7:22 PM
Both actually...(sorry was at work)....My battery is new...Im running a 4 gauge power..ground wires still only a 6 guage...I Havent blown any fuses at all...they just break...the whole side of the plug type melted...and the tube melted the soldering..the wires are not all frayed...the powers to the battery hooked into a ring terminal and nothings wrong with the wire



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 8:13 PM
Wheres the ground done at?



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Wednesday, April 07, 2010 9:40 PM
Well get on installing a 4 gauge ground,And when doing that make sure you grind all paint away and nut and bolt it to the body..

Also make sure to solder the ring terminal to make the best connection,and when you have the new ground in place make sure to use some body protectant so it will not rust...

And to check your grounding point,check from where you want to ground and use a multimeter to you factory ground,make sure it is showning a good ground..
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:15 AM
regardless of what type of fuse it is he wouldn't be blowing it or melting it if everying was done right and properly. ive blown one fuse in about 20 years of audio. they dont just happen for the hell of it. go thru the wiring, check everything, check your grounds. upgrade your ground to the proper size, right now your feeding your system with 6 gague wire, probalby not good though you didnt mention the power of your amp.


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Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:38 PM
I have a 1800 watt power acoustick...the subs are series in the box and bridged at the amp..the subs themselves are power bass "x" series...never had this problem til I put them in...the ground is connected to a bolt in the trunk rite beside the corner panel (il take a pic later)...and I have some extra 4 guage wire layin round from my power wire install...can i use the spare wire for a grounding wire?



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:50 PM
Yes, you can use that wire for ground wire. If you want a good ground, take out the back seat, and take the nut off the bolt holding down the center seat belt. Get a ring terminal to fit around that bolt and tighten it down. You're guaranteed to get a good ground there. I'm not sure if that is 1800 peak watts or RMS since you didn't specify. If it is RMS, you should be running 2 ga wire from the battery.



2010 Subaru Impreza WRX Limited
1999 Cavalier Z24 Supercharged
1999 Grand AM SE (Beater Car)
1997 GMC Sierra
2007 Honda CBR 600RR
2005 Honda TRX450R

Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 4:53 PM
this is where it is now...close to the rear taillight....and that was 1800 peak...puts out 1450 rms



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:05 PM
Cursed Cav wrote:Yes, you can use that wire for ground wire. If you want a good ground, take out the back seat, and take the nut off the bolt holding down the center seat belt. Get a ring terminal to fit around that bolt and tighten it down. You're guaranteed to get a good ground there. I'm not sure if that is 1800 peak watts or RMS since you didn't specify. If it is RMS, you should be running 2 ga wire from the battery.


His amp is rated at like 750 or so RMS. AND, the seat belt bolt is not guaranteed to be a good ground. I personally suggest getting either a coarse thread, large sheet metal screw, or a nut/bolt and making your own hole, making sure that there is no paint or prime, only bare metal touching the ring terminal. That has been suggested once, and it's the best way to do it easily. Whatever you do with your ground, make sure it's not grounded to paint, and is grounded to BARE metal.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

Some say he invented November.
Re: Sigh Yet Again
Thursday, April 08, 2010 5:11 PM
oh ok well I guess I know what Im doin tomorrow..Thank Ya'll all for ur advice



Re: Sigh Yet Again
Friday, April 09, 2010 4:36 AM
yeah making sure the paint is scraped off and that its bare metal is the most important part.

and as jl said the rear seatbelt bolts aren't the absolute best. they usually do a adequate job. but the metal used to help support that screw is a diffent type of metal and not as conductive..


http://www.flickr.com/photos/sndsgood/ https://www.facebook.com/#!/Square1Photography
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