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You needed a high output Alt. for a 700 watt class D amp?!?
There's so much wrong with the crap you say in that video.... "just basic 400 watt mids with tweeter", "I need another capacitor, they say 1 farad per 500 watt RMS and I'm pushing more than double that." "it runs on a 100amp fuse".... jesus, need I go on?
I mean.... it's ok for someone to not really know everything about audio and such, but to post a video like that and say a bunch of wrong/false/hype/stupid crap for people to listen to and sound like you know what you're talking about irks me to no end........................
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
.....
first off im not speaking about "hype".
i say higher output, in another video i talk more about it. when i installed the system the original alternator on the car toasted so i replaced it with one better then stock.
i say. THE REAR SPEAKERS are 400 watt pioneer 6 x 9 inch with tweeters built into them.
Now that that is all cleared up for you i would like to give you a lesson in simple math.
100 amps is the maximum current output of the system before my fuse blows... And we know by reading the guage on the capacitor that i was running 14.3 volts in the video ...
so....
14.3 volts X 100 amps = 1430 watts.this is the MAX value on the system. Or 1.43 Kilo Watts
thats just simple math..... im assuming you could do that youself.
NOW effective value or RMS( root mean square) power value (mesured in watts) is
1430 W X 0.707 = 1011.01 watts RMS
or you could also use the other method
1430 W divided by the squard root of 2 (1.414 for short) = 1011.3154 watts RMS (root mean square)
So if 1 Farad of capacitance can only oppose the change in up to 500 w rms of power i would be safe to say that i am over double that. Feel free to double check my math.
So before you assume i know nothing, know this
I have over 2000 hours working for Gm as a mechanic on my Ontario Youth Apprenticeship
And i am currently in the Canadian Navy In school as an Electronics Technition.
I have no idea what you do with your time, but i think its safe to say..
Be as "Irked" as you want im sure wherever you live is a free country as well
sincerly
Kevin
LMAO. Good attempt at "schooling" me dude.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
Anytime dude..
if you have anymore questions just ask
o yeah and thanks for trying to belittle me you fruit
your sig is too big.
also... what amp are you using for the 6x9s? because i only saw the monoblock and a pre-fab box... if they're running off head unit power, they're only seeing about 14-17w rms. NOT 400...
car audio noob since 1984.
I would LOVE to see him send a TRUE, CLEAN, ACTUAL 400 watts per side to those 6X9's. I want video when it happens too.
Also, because you know some basic electrical math and theory doesn't mean you know car audio dude.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
And as for your idea of pulling 1000+ watts, you aren't and wont ever. That amp won't EVER pull 100amps of current. I promise
It is a 700 watt RMS rated amp, meaning the internals are built to safely supply 700 watts of continuous power. Trying to push anything above that you get into clipping, damaging your amp or subs etc...
On top of that, the amp itself is fused at 75 amps. You really think it's pulling 100 amps without blowing it's fuses or burning up? WRONG. The issue I have with just about everything in your vid is the blatant exaggeration of everything. "I need another cap. I pull so much power". "this things putting out 1K watts+" etc etc.... that's not true.
And then you also think that whatever the manufacturer feels is the safe amperage to protect the amp at (75 in this case) is what that amp is indefinitely capable of producing cleanly and safely for output? Yikes.... this "debate" is over.
(tabs) wrote:z yaaaa wrote:its not much fun trying to argue with a wall.
oh, trust us, we know
no amp to the 6 x 9s so yeah head w.e head unit is, i never said they were taking 400 watts, i was talking about their peak rating.
i could test it but i dont feel like it.
yes your right 3 25's for the amplifier.
either way 700 is more then 500 but im glad your the be all and end all
i sense negative energy around you. or maybe your just miserable all the time
whatever the case
peace and love, support your troops, and get these @!#$in protesters off my lawn
"I GOT ABOUT $1,500 INTO MY SYSTEM....."
That's the only part I laughed real hard at.
I think his system is actually "decent" for a daily driver. Probably has 4x6" in the dash as opposed to the 5.25" he claims. I would've put a small 2 channel on the 6x9s if it were mine.
That amp you can get new for aroubd $200 and the deck is only $100 - that's why I laughed. No way he spend all the rest on a Raptor Cap and a pair of off the shelf subs. I could really care less. Just hearing him say the cost in the video made me laugh a little.
Kevin, good job on your first install. Next video, more vid, Less talking and you'll be ok.
I know people would laugh their asses off if I mnade a video and listed each piece and how much power it was ratede at and then spouted off a price of what it costs. They would probably laugh since my system cost about 3times more than my car is worth. I keep that info to myself, so people who actually invest $$ into things other than speakers don't die laughing at my ten year old cavalier with buckets of $$ dumped into it.
If it makes you happy, DO IT. But please leave the specs on the gear up to the manufacter or someone who is more educated in doing so.
so you know the prices better then i do...interesting because that is what i paid
and they are either 5 and a quarter or 5 and a half some funky size that was hard to find
second install
the 6 x 9s were cheep so an amp is retarded unless im getting either more or better ones
i included the alternator and battery in the 1500
i have 2 of these by the way, and the car is worth good money im gunna do the 3800 swap out of one of my grand prix's eventually
again dont belittle people because im sure you dont drive the nicest car on the road
but thanks for your imput i may or may not grab my one of my 4 channels back in ontario when i get there, im living in bc right now so i didnt go too crazy
think the points there trying to get at is your trying to spit out the maximums. normaly people would just say what the amp would do. not base things off what fuse they have as you did above. the amp has 3 25 amp fuses in it. but trying to show off to jl you gave him a whole math lesson based off of 100 amps. 25 more amps then your amp is rated for. that amp i beleive is only rated for around 700 watts at 2 ohms. so where your pulling the whole 1400 watts and 1000 watts is just kind of foolish. your trying to act all high and might to a couple of people who have been in the audio game for a while. i usuaullly don't even bother with posts like this but id just suggest easing off a bit with your boasting since its not really boasting when people know whats really going on. kinda hard to boast about your $1500 system when the guys your talking to have close to that in just there componet set. thats not boasting, thats reality.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, November 16, 2011 12:23 PM
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well between JLAudiocavalier and sndsgood,who both really know there stuff,I would listen to what they have to say.I mean you really need to clean up the install,And don't say things like 400 watt 6x9 speakers,Just makes you sound like you know nothing at all..But seeing's how most of this has already been covered i wont go further with it..
yeah the entire math lesson above was on the current going to the CAPACITOR for one. I need you to understand that.
ALSO do the same calculation on 100 amps of current which is my known current maximum.
(the acual specified amperage rating on the alternator was 114 amps but we will use 100 for the purpose of this debate)
your going to get 70.7 amps on the 1000 watt rms of the alternator.
Now is my amp fused at 75 amps? yes it absolutly is
what is the peak on it
700 x 1.414 = rougly 990 watts maximum + or - 1 %
so on the max bass hits if they are consistant i can pull 1000 watts through that amp yes i can if you say i cant go back to school.
SO the entire point of my lesson was
If i have over 1000 watts rms going to the capacitor, i most definently need a second one to sustain hard hits so i do not temporarily overload my alternator. and all of that was not including the power that the motor uses in itself, and the deck unit headlights, speakers and so on. But im glad to know these guys are the be all and end all and know everything there is to know about electricity in their vehicles.
I didnt put this form up to argue with a bunch of genious's i will never meet, i specifically ask for how i can improve my system. so far 4 channel amp for speakers, thank you anything else? Jason burton how do you propose i clean the install? i already have the box l bracketed to the strut towers and wires are all hidden within the car under the floormat. you cant see any wires unless you lower the back seats what do you suggest?
Kevin Keeping wrote:
what is the peak on it
nobody cares, if any of what you had ever saw the peak they plaster on the box and chassis, it'd catch fire.
Quote:
700 x 1.414 = rougly 990 watts maximum + or - 1 %
so on the max bass hits if they are consistant i can pull 1000 watts through that amp yes i can if you say i cant go back to school.
eeeehhhhh... no. your amp is rated for (the word you used yourself) CONSISTENT power of 700w. push it to 1000w for anything over a few milliseconds, magic smoke.
Quote:
SO the entire point of my lesson was
If i have over 1000 watts rms going to the capacitor
which you don't.
Quote:
i most definently need a second one to sustain hard hits so i do not temporarily overload my alternator
so.... how is it i ran the same amount of power you are right now with my first setup, no cap, factory alternator, and a 4 year old battery? hell, i'm at 2300w RMS right now, still no cap.
Quote:
and all of that was not including the power that the motor uses in itself, and the deck unit headlights, speakers and so on. But im glad to know these guys are the be all and end all and know everything there is to know about electricity in their vehicles.
I didnt put this form up to argue with a bunch of genious's i will never meet, i specifically ask for how i can improve my system. so far 4 channel amp for speakers, thank you anything else? Jason burton how do you propose i clean the install? i already have the box l bracketed to the strut towers and wires are all hidden within the car under the floormat. you cant see any wires unless you lower the back seats what do you suggest?
mount amp to seatback so you can tuck the wires in the upholstery, cleaner look. keep the subs, lose the box. a bad (pre-fab) box can make the worst subs sonld like steaming piles, while good boxes will make crappy subs sound amazing. as for a 4 channel, there's a guy on the forum who sells amazing amps and components. everybody who's bought from him couldn't be happier. if i ever felt the sq itch, i'd hit him up in a heartbeat.
car audio noob since 1984.
Just logging in to say LOL WTF.
I didn't watch the video but do you know how a capacitor works? If you did you would realize that a capacitor places MORE load on your electrical system.
Youre just throwing equations around for the sake of looking smart.
Best buy installed my subs. They're 12" across. They make my license plate rattle.
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Kevin Keeping wrote:And i am currently in the Canadian Navy In school as an Electronics Technition.
Are you minoring in bullsh
it? You can't even spell technician, and knowing basic electrical math still doesn't mean your system is what you hyped it up as (read: exaggerated the pi
ss out of). You made a video running your mouth and posted it like the only people who would see it would be impressed because they didn't know their a
ss from their elbow with car audio. You were wrong. You got called on it. Grow up and admit it. Move on.
Im just here for the party
once a capacitor is charged there is no load on the system anymore.
and your headlights probably dim
Really,I need to spoon feed you on how to clean up that wire mess,Its called tie straps,some wire loom,And Pull or cut wires back under the carpet,so everthing looks nice and equal length..when you pull the seat down the system should look nce and clean,Not like ROBOT BARF..
And i think its funny the whole ordeal over a capacator,i Dont run any caps,And i am running 2 Audision VRx Amps,And I do not have head light dimming issues..
Kevin Keeping wrote:once a capacitor is charged there is no load on the system anymore.
until it has to output its power which is.... whenever it's the amp is playing. then the alternator has to recharge your battery, run your car, power your amp, AND recharge the cap.
Quote:
and your headlights probably dim
no sir. not once, ever.
car audio noob since 1984.
wires have zip ties dude look at it....
Yes your right one the capacitor opposes the voltage change it rapidly rechacharges when the sub is off, this however takes miliseconds and it is barly noticable unless your amp is already drawing more power then the alternator can produce. So if that is your case which you say it is, a capacitor would constantly be discharging and charging at the same time in turn putting extra load on your circuit you sir are correct. That clearly is not the case for me.
