Wouldn't os exhaust valves just make the spool time quicker because it is allowing the heat from the head to get out faster and hit the turbo at a larger flow rate............. thus creating a better responding turbo ?????

Lee


JDM Civic Hatch
Status: Parting Out Turbo Kit....
14.224 @ 102.01MPH @ 5.5psi.... 2.3 60'
Next: Civic JDM B16a2 w/GSR LSD Turbo - Goal 300whp 1400lbs...

Lee wrote:Wouldn't os exhaust valves just make the spool time quicker because it is allowing the heat from the head to get out faster and hit the turbo at a larger flow rate............. thus creating a better responding turbo ?????

Lee

Thats kinda what I figured.

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:First, 60/63 is not a T3 Super 60. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48 with 60 trim wheel.

As for oversize valves, it's worth the money spent to modify your valve seats 1mm just for an addiitonal 3 or 4 CFM's of air. You will be JUST FINE with stock sized valves (I am guessing you are buying the Si valves from Karo?)

Where do you get this @!#$ from????

Why can't a T3 Super 60 be a 60/63 (.60 a/r compressor housing and a .63 a/r turbine housing)????

As for the valves, where do you get 1mm oversize = 3 or 4 cfm?


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

Skilz10179 wrote:

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:First, 60/63 is not a T3 Super 60. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48 with 60 trim wheel.

As for oversize valves, it's worth the money spent to modify your valve seats 1mm just for an addiitonal 3 or 4 CFM's of air. You will be JUST FINE with stock sized valves (I am guessing you are buying the Si valves from Karo?)

Where do you get this @!#$ from????

Why can't a T3 Super 60 be a 60/63 (.60 a/r compressor housing and a .63 a/r turbine housing)????

As for the valves, where do you get 1mm oversize = 3 or 4 cfm?

You're killin me Skilz. Look anywhere. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48. That's what a T3 Super 60 is. If you wanted a 60/63 then why not a T3/T4 hybrid with a 57 trim wheel? As for the valves, UNLESS we're talking about a fully built motor, in which case you would want to cover all the bases, 1mm oversize isn't going to gain you anything worth spending time on.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Spend your money on a set of cams.
Its the best bang for the buck in a turbo motor.

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:

Skilz10179 wrote:

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:First, 60/63 is not a T3 Super 60. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48 with 60 trim wheel.

As for oversize valves, it's worth the money spent to modify your valve seats 1mm just for an addiitonal 3 or 4 CFM's of air. You will be JUST FINE with stock sized valves (I am guessing you are buying the Si valves from Karo?)

Where do you get this @!#$ from????

Why can't a T3 Super 60 be a 60/63 (.60 a/r compressor housing and a .63 a/r turbine housing)????

As for the valves, where do you get 1mm oversize = 3 or 4 cfm?

You're killin me Skilz. Look anywhere. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48. That's what a T3 Super 60 is. If you wanted a 60/63 then why not a T3/T4 hybrid with a 57 trim wheel? As for the valves, UNLESS we're talking about a fully built motor, in which case you would want to cover all the bases, 1mm oversize isn't going to gain you anything worth spending time on.

Actually your wrong, MOST super 60's are a 60/48 but don't have to. In order to have a super 60 you need a t3 compressor wheel with a 1.900 inch inducer wheel. The turbine side can be whatever you want. Just to prove it here is a compressor map of a super 60 t3 compressor wheel (note the dimensions of the inducer diameter)





and this is the same info for a regular t3 60 compressor wheel.




............super 60 on its way

I understand your post. All I am saying is a T3 60 Trim and a T3 Super 60 are two different turbochargers.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

Valves are not worth it. Spotabee is right on the turbo. Have a good night



Blew it up

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:I understand your post. All I am saying is a T3 60 Trim and a T3 Super 60 are two different turbochargers.

Ok, I gotcha


............super 60 on its way

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:

Skilz10179 wrote:

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:First, 60/63 is not a T3 Super 60. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48 with 60 trim wheel.

As for oversize valves, it's worth the money spent to modify your valve seats 1mm just for an addiitonal 3 or 4 CFM's of air. You will be JUST FINE with stock sized valves (I am guessing you are buying the Si valves from Karo?)

Where do you get this @!#$ from????

Why can't a T3 Super 60 be a 60/63 (.60 a/r compressor housing and a .63 a/r turbine housing)????

As for the valves, where do you get 1mm oversize = 3 or 4 cfm?

You're killin me Skilz. Look anywhere. A T3 Super 60 is a 60/48. That's what a T3 Super 60 is. If you wanted a 60/63 then why not a T3/T4 hybrid with a 57 trim wheel? As for the valves, UNLESS we're talking about a fully built motor, in which case you would want to cover all the bases, 1mm oversize isn't going to gain you anything worth spending time on.

Do you even have any clue what you are talking about, seriously? The term "Super 60" is only referring to the compressor wheel (cold side) and has nothing to do with the turbine (hot side). The only difference between a T3 Super 60 and a regular T3 60 trim is that the Super 60 has a slighly larger inducer section of the compressor wheel which makes it slightly more efficient at higher rpm ranges, nothing to do with the turbine.

No matter what size T3 turbine ( .36 a/r, .48 a/r, .63 a/r, .82 a/r ) you mate a T3 Super 60 compressor with, its still a T3 Super 60.

I have no clue where you are coming from when you said "If you wanted a 60/63 then why not a T3/T4 hybrid with a 57 trim wheel?"

BTW, my last turbo was a T3 super 60 and my current turbo is a T3/TO4E 57 and are both 60/63 turbos, meaning they both have .60 compressor housing a/r's and both have .63 turbine housing a/r's.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

So you are saying any T3 turbo with a .60 a/r compressor can be a T3 Super 60? You are incorrect.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

so your saying that the patriot stage 2 head with OS valves wouldnt be worth it and just get it P&P and upgraded vavletrain



The one, the only, ME.

Spotabee Racing (The Fake Z24) wrote:So you are saying any T3 turbo with a .60 a/r compressor can be a T3 Super 60? You are incorrect.

If it is a "true" super 60 wheel ,yes



Blew it up

Again, the term "Super 60" refers to the compressor wheel, not the housing a/r.


- 93 mph in the 1/8 mile
Member of J-Body Of Michigan.

this is ridiculous, the man was asking about valves, and really NOT discussing that much of his turbo charger. And you wonder why the org gets a bad rep?

Spotabee - Skilz got this one. Just take the Tbrid coupe. They 2 size of turbo)both were T3 super 60). 1 for the auto and 1 for the 5spd. 1 had a .48 A/R turbine and the other one was .63 A/R but BOTH had the same compressor housing and wheel sitch mean that yes, a T3 super 60 could have a .63 A/R turbine.



Gilles
2.3 Ho

04eco (theN/Aautoone) wrote:so your saying that the patriot stage 2 head with OS valves wouldnt be worth it and just get it P&P and upgraded vavletrain

If you are buying the head anyways, spending all that money, then yes I suppose it could be worth it. However, not on a factory head where you are paying extra to modify the valve seats.




I was a retard, and now I'm permanently banned.

A super 60 T3 ONLY and I will say this to you 4banger guys once, is for the Cold side wheel and housing, not the hot side.

Maybe drive your uneducated buts over to the Grand National boards and understand Turbos a little better. Or better yet call up Garret or Turbonetics. I've been warned about you guys and your bicker fests for years now and only joined to help out AleroSS, but this is unreal, everyone argueing about a freaking Super60 and not answering his question.

AleroSS, all you answer are at home with your freinds who actually know wtf they are talking about.

To the rest who actually know their shyt, good stuff.

bluenote wrote:A super 60 T3 ONLY and I will say this to you 4banger guys once, is for the Cold side wheel and housing, not the hot side.

Maybe drive your uneducated buts over to the Grand National boards and understand Turbos a little better. Or better yet call up Garret or Turbonetics. I've been warned about you guys and your bicker fests for years now and only joined to help out AleroSS, but this is unreal, everyone argueing about a freaking Super60 and not answering his question.

AleroSS, all you answer are at home with your freinds who actually know wtf they are talking about.

To the rest who actually know their shyt, good stuff.

HAHA! Sold!

Scott


When I boost, you boost, we boost
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You have been banned from NEJBODY.
You've displayed wayyy too many acts of pushing people to their limits.
It's never cool to tear people down for what they want to do.
NEJBODY is a team. We're not the same as JBO where everyone bashes on eachother.
I'm surprised you show up to our meets after half of the things you say on here.

I was on the gnttype.org list for a while. It's not that much different. I got involved in a discussion on coolant that had some downright silly poeple chiming in. And sometimes the best discussions happen when a thread strays off topic.

Turbo stuff... was gonna mention Mopar super 60 and Mustang/Merkur units. Thanks.

Back to the valves. What you're asking about is "bang for the buck." Here's the strategy that makes the most sense to me. Many of the typical flow issues for naturally aspirated engines are much less of a problem in a boosted application. Typically, small gains found in NA cars, such as 1 mm os valves or a 3 mm larger throttle body, are easily overshadowed by the ability to turn up the boost by 1 or 2 psi. IMO you're better off spending extra money on a good spark/ fuel management system than on replacing perfectly functioning parts. With good tuning and a turbo that's sized appropriately, more power is as simple as "More Boost!!" And, if everything is done right, "more boost" doesn't mean "spend more $$." At least not for a little while.

-->Slow

slowolej wrote:

Back to the valves. What you're asking about is "bang for the buck." Here's the strategy that makes the most sense to me. Many of the typical flow issues for naturally aspirated engines are much less of a problem in a boosted application. Typically, small gains found in NA cars, such as 1 mm os valves or a 3 mm larger throttle body, are easily overshadowed by the ability to turn up the boost by 1 or 2 psi. IMO you're better off spending extra money on a good spark/ fuel management system than on replacing perfectly functioning parts. With good tuning and a turbo that's sized appropriately, more power is as simple as "More Boost!!" And, if everything is done right, "more boost" doesn't mean "spend more $$." At least not for a little while.

-->Slow

I totally agree with this ^

last month in the HCi magazine they had a great article on a 750hp b16. When they first started on it they did everything they could to increase the HP n/a before they put a turbo on it. with the mindset that a starting with a higher base number will yeild more power with the turbo..which is correct to think

i guess the point of that story is to say that unless your going for a big power ecotec, i wouldn't worry about the vavles that much, just get the stock size from karo.