I could have put this in the Other Cars forum I suppose since this has nothing to do with the Cavalier but I figure at least here I'd get an answer.

Basically I just want to know, does the Mitsubishi TEO4H turbo (13C) share the same flange with the older 14B, 16G, etc.?

dsmtuners.com would probably kno



|Forged 8.9:1 Wiseco Pistons|Forged Eagle Rods|HPTuners|60trim|Tial Wastegate|
|Precision Intercooler|2.5" Exhaust|2.5" Charge Pipes|630CC Mototron Injectors|
|Stock: Fuel Pump, Transmission, Manifold, TB, Head, Head Gasket, Ignition, Suspension...|

Yeah I'm a member but I forgot my password lol... Hadn't been there in a while.

is that the turbo off the automatic 1g dsm? if so then yes

No. All 1G turbo DSMs came with TD04 (auto) and TD05H (manual tranny). Same for the 88-94 GVR4. To my knowledge the TE04H was never used on any USDM Mitsubishi vehicle. The TE04H was used almost exclusively by Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth for various vehicles using their turbo 2.X engines, although some of them came with Garrett or Mitsubishi TD-series turbos.

If it matters, the vehicle in question is a Dodge Daytona Shelby 2.5. We're wanting to upgrade but if the flange won't match up to a different turbo, then we need to find the manifold off one of the other Daytonas with the TD-series turbo or even the Garrett version. The Garrett manifolds are hard to find because those were limited production VNT models. They're kind of rare.

Take that back. None of the 2.5/2.2 came with a TD-series. It was either Mitsu TE04H series or Garrett TB0335. Starion and Conquest came with TD05 but I don't think the 2.6 manifold will bolt up.

On mine I just added an extra injector and bled the boost from the map sensor. Modify the wastegate and it wil easily put out over 15 psi. Do it till the turbo goes then upgrade.


FORGET GIRLS GONE WILD WE HAVE GOVERNMENT SPENDING GONE WILD!

ohh, in that case no.

none of the turbo dodges have a mitsu or a standard t3 flange...they have a messed up t3 flange..both the garrett and the mitsu turbos have this flange.

you can modify it for a standard t3, but its kind of ghetto..

i'll get pictures in a sec

here is a great link about turbo dodges

Quote:

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/

Wade Jarvis wrote:On mine I just added an extra injector and bled the boost from the map sensor. Modify the wastegate and it wil easily put out over 15 psi. Do it till the turbo goes then upgrade.

YEah I have that covered. From the factory, the turbo is preset for 7psi. Under 4500rpm it's limited to 5psi, and above 4500rpm it will build boost up to 10psi and then taper off. You can add a Grainger valve and a manual boost control to bypass the factory controls in order to increase boost. As long as the factory boost control is still plugged into the ECU, it'll never know or care that you've just turned its little world upside down. You can then boost up to 14psi and the ECU will support it, as will the fuel system. After 14psi, the MAP sensor stops reading boost and the injectors won't provide more fuel. At that point a second Grainger valve is needed to fool the factory MAP (bleed pressure as you stated), to make it think you're still at 14psi, and then you need a way to control fuel above that point. 40% larger injectors and an FMU usually do the trick up to about 20psi, and then at that point the turbo is completely maxed out and it's time for an upgrade. OF course by this time if you like your car you've also added a front-mount, and the Turbo II gear does the trick, or in our case, custom hard lines and an aftermarket intercooler.

And this is the point we're at. We're spinning 17psi on this turbo right now, and it's time for an upgrade. Yeah, we can go to 20psi but these turbos are tiny and 20psi on a regular basis will do more harm than good. I've been talking to some of my VR4 buddies, and we've determined that the flange is totally different, as Ryan mentioned. Now the question is what turbo to switch to. I haven't had the pleasure of playing with the Garrett-equipped Daytonas so I don't know it that turbo is any better. A VNT would be a good upgrade if we got the electronics to control it but they're very rare and carbon buildup over tim pretty much destroys the vanes and causes them to fail. Rebuilding a VNT can be pretty costly so we've pretty much ditched that option.

ditch the mitsu turbo, find a garrett if you want to keep the stock manifold.. the garret is exceptionally better on those cars..

buddy of mine has a 88 shadow es turbo with a 2.2 t1 motor.. thats the only reason why i know any of this .

i do also have another buddy with 2 (two) Spirit R/t's it the turbo 3 motor.. one is his daily driver and the other he is working on building...but the daily driver rapes on SRT 4's all day..happens to have a t3/to4e 57 trim on it ..

Yeah I agree that getting a Garrett unit would be teh best option but it's not even my car, I'm just helping with the build. It belongs to one of my friends and he's been helping me build my Cavalier, so I'm just returning the favor. We have 14 and 16Gs laying around so we were looking at those as an option. But if they won't fit, then yeah it's pointless to even sweat it.

And about the Spirit R/T... That Lotus-designed 16V is a fricken screamer. Let's face it, that Spirit IS the original SRT-4, it's just showing the new breed how it's done lol... But as much as I'd like to see the TIII in this Shelby, it almost seems sacrilege to do so and since it's not my car, not my decision. And besides, the TI is a stout motor. With next to little invested, he's got that car running mid 12's with a full interior. The 16V is, well, finicky, and finding parts is a PITA.

that is true. my buddy with the shadow got his from 16.4 to a 14.6 with very very little into the car. that to shabby if you ask me...and he is still on the stock ecu 14 psi of boost on the mitsu.

Yep. And the MItsu will run 17psi, like I said, but he'd need to find a way to reference boost over 14psi. Believe me, this Daytona was a turd when we got it running again, hell, my Cavalier would spank it, wash its mouth out with a bar of Irish Spring, slap it on the back of the head, and send it to bed without dinner. Now, with it tuned up and the mods I mentioned (and also a full exhaust, 3" all the way), I see tail lights pulling away before I get out of second gear.

hey I'm getting ready to build a turbo daytona myself
check out http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/
they have all the technical info you can imagine about the cars
also check out fwdperformance
they have a lot of parts and things including the chrysler t3 flange and the standard flange if you do decide to make a manifold or have one made

you've prob already checked out these sites but if not they are very helpful


Click here to see Video

Actually I haven't seen those yet. Thanks for the info, bro.