Im almost ready to install the turbo on my cav, my only problem is what to do about the exhaust. I plan on running 2.5 all the way through, and was going to buy stainles steel pipes online, and weld them using a low voltage stick welder (runs around 30-130+, fairly versatile stick welder) This is the only welder I have access to. I was told this welder will be extremly difficult to use, with such thin piping. What have you guys been using to weld exhaust, any one use a stick? Also any of you turboed 2200s, im sure that your downpipe will be quite similar to mine, along with location of the flex and cat, any suggestions on what piping to buy, that you have used? i have an idea of what will work but just to be 100%. Im also running side exit so im not to worried about what bends to use afer the cat, pretty simple, mostly just the DP. Once i figure out to do about this, it'll be ready to go. Any help, or suggestions appreciated!!

You want to stick weld stainless? good luck...



fortune cookie say:
better a delay than a disaster.

I've never welded stainless, but I believe you have to TIG weld it, and its pretty nasty.

you can MIG weld stainless....... but stick..... idk.

I would try to mimic your OEM setup as close as you can. Get a 2.5" Aftermarket Cat-back (might be just me, but side exits are WAY to loud, and look crappy), a High Flow Cat, 2.5" Flex, and a box of stainless 2.5" "J" pipes. When I do down pipes, I take a "J" pipe, and picture what angles I need to get it to go where I need to go. Cut the "J" pipe at the angle you think works, test fit it, and trim more off if you need. Try to get the first section of down pipe to go towards where the OEM stuff would normaly run, and then copy the OEM. You could use the stick welder to 'tac' the sections of pipe together, and then take it to a exhaust shop to get finish welded (just make sure you only do a few small tac's, as to not make their job more difficult)

Another helpfull hint...... use mild steel "J" bends for the fabrication process (cheaper and easier to work with) and when your done, and have something that works....... copy that piece with the stainless.




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Gearstix wrote:I've never welded stainless, but I believe you have to TIG weld it, and its pretty nasty.

You don't have to TIG weld it. But TIG is the better way to do it. The exhaust I built for my Olds Cutlas Ciera is stainless welding with a MIG, and it works just fine.

Granted, I (aside from buying the pipes in from a small time exhaust shop)built it in a full metalworking shop, using a very high end MIG welder, used a CNC for the simple task of making my exhaust hanger provisions etc, as well as having a nice corrosion inhibitor/coolant liquid available from that same CNC which I used on all sides of all welds. I made nice thick welds (very visible from the outside of the pipe but at least they aren't going to come apart).

I'll say, that if you want a show car, don't use a MIG welder. From how you described your particular welder, I wouldn't bother building an exhaust with that anyways - its just going to rust, leak, then fall apart at every weld. I'd assume that doesn't even use any welding gas. Even if it uses a welding gas, I doubt your welds would be very strong on that anyways. Bad idea, just let an exhaust shop do it.

But if you are determined, my advise is this... First figure out what bends you are going to need. Either buy those from an exhaust shop or online(if your getting them online, might as well go with mandrel bends). Then buy your straight pipe - more than you think that you'll need. Also you will want to have a tape measure, a good means of elevating your car fairly high(I used a forklift positioned underneath the rear axle), and preferably a friend (to help hold pipes up etc).

I know you said that you where going out the side after the Catalytic Converter, but I'd recommend you build the complete exhaust system(with resonators and a muffler) if you don't want to get hassled by the police. You could install an exhaust dump into the downpipe for when you need the extra power and don't mind the extra noise. There are even electronic solenoid actuated dumps available - so you could open it up from within your car at will.

Assuming you are building a full exhaust - Work with only one length at a time. Measure how long of a pipe you need between the current bend and the next one(have a friend hold up one of them and use the tape measure). Then cut that pipe length and weld the bend onto it. Then do the same with the next bend. Mock it back up, measure, cut, weld. Repeat until done.



I've never heard of this "part throttle" before. Does it just bolt on?

have you ever considered ordering an exhaust pre bent from custom tubes inc. then you could put it all together with sleeve clamps...like these



YOu can get them through summit racing in the exhaust section under clamps. Plus you could take the exhaust apart when and if you ever need to do any work under the car if it gets in the way.

thank you everyone for your input, i am still considering on what i want to do... ive talked to a few places locally for a custom downpipe (with and without flex & cat) and most wanted to charge atleast 200$ for a downpipe (no cat or flex included) and labor was estimated lightly. And with having to take off the alternator and bracket off along with switching the manis back and fourth, i have a feeling it would go up quite a bit from there. I have no problems with spending a few extra bucks for quality pieces but i just feel that is a bit much for a very basic dp, although i have no completly closed out that option, i just wanted to see what else i could do.

and JUCNBST i will look into those, might not be a bad option for a few of the butt joints that would potentially need to welded. although we do still have some flanges to weld on might save us a bit of frustration.

I was originally planning on using basic steel for now but i was told to go with stainless. my thughts were use steel now if we can get it welded using the stick and then down the line i atleast have the bends exactly and i could have a shop fab up a stainless set up much easier.

And with the side exit after the cat im planning on still putting a muffler on it (or resonator) and with having a turbo, it acts as a resonator itself so im not too worried about it being overly loud, other than the external dump.

thanks again for your ideas and suggestions.