Hey guys im thinking of havong my eco charger powdercoated. I know it has a layer of silver coat on it. But im gonna have it stripped and painted black.
my question is take it apart........or have it coated as one piece....except for removal of pulley and connecting bolts(on snout)
opinions?
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the eco s/c isnt coated its bare , only the 2.4 was coated
also coating it will keep more heat inside the s/c , so you would have to have a better functioning intercooler , and alky injection , to help combat the extra heat
but complete disassemble , and taping and stuffing things , so nothing gets into the bearings , and sealing surfaces
do not have it powdercoated... as previously stated the blower will dissapate heat much better if uncoated or just painted...
President/Founder - 607 Motorsports
so paint would be a better option?
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paint will still hold the heat in , not as much as powder coating , but kinda depends on how much you paint it
best is still raw cast or polished
only reasoning behind this is it just looks dirty in my engine bay, compared to everything else.
and im to lazy to polish it.
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ship it to brandon and have his brother play with it , LOL
as qbe said stiegmeier is a great place , and does great work , not to mention you can make some better power that way too
Steig makes it look real pretty, but man it isn't worth the money they charge for it, no freakin way. Polish it yourself. Just don't paint it.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
The amount of stuff Steig does is well worth the money. Not worth the time in my opinion to do it yourself especially how well a job they do. (2 week turn around)
ASE Master Certified Automotive Technician
yeah polishing a m62 yourself really
SUCKS Those who have tried know what I'm talking about
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QBE (The Boosted One) wrote:1 word
stiegmeier! (sp?)
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BlownBlackZ wrote:Steig makes it look real pretty, but man it isn't worth the money they charge for it, no freakin way. Polish it yourself. Just don't paint it.
find a place that will completly dis-assemble, polish... and open some areas up a tad for less. aint gonna happen.
these guys are professionals, they do AMAZING work, worth every single cent.
Just keep us updated with pictures of the process if you can.
Let's see the car with the s/c installed!
so what is the cost of a Steigemeier port and polish anyway?
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[quote=97trd(???™)]
also coating it will keep more heat inside the s/c , so you would have to have a better functioning intercooler , and alky injection , to help combat the extra heat
jimmyc99z24 wrote:do not have it powdercoated... as previously stated the blower will dissapate heat much better if uncoated or just painted...
I hate to play devil's advocate here, but maybe someone should shed some light.
I don't have a doubt that if removing the paint/ powder coating on the S/C will dissipates heat just a little better when the car is not running.
But leaving it bare, it will conduct more heat to the charger when it is running since hot air recirculates in the engine bay, as now it has no level of protection for the heat.
From the looks of it, leaving the S/Cer shiny is only good for aesthetic purposes only. I really can't see any performance advantage on either.
The only sure way of finding this is by using IAT sensor's reading on a standard (non-ported) S/C with before (painted) and after (shiny).
Does anyone have these findings?
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
Back in the day some one posted it up, it ran something like 20 DEG cooler,
Besides your usually driving it down the road, blowing wind by the charger anyways.
Chris
'02 Z-24 Supercharged
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By any chance would have the link? Do you know if it was ported? As ported runs a little cooler.
I am skeptical on this because that charger is always catching hot air from the radiator and not to forget hot air recirculating in the engine bay and by having a more conductive finish. I can only see the charger getting hotter, unless the fan is kicked on.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
I sent Snowman a PM, but I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the idea here. You can have aluminum anodized black, which would not reduce the heat transfer any more than polishing (which reduces surface area when removing the texture).
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T. wrote:By any chance would have the link? Do you know if it was ported? As ported runs a little cooler.
I am skeptical on this because that charger is always catching hot air from the radiator and not to forget hot air recirculating in the engine bay and by having a more conductive finish. I can only see the charger getting hotter, unless the fan is kicked on.
You have to remember also that there is cooler air running through the charger, which pulls heat into the a/f charge, and cools the charger at idle.
fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster
Mr.Goodwrench-G.T.
No offense but you are way off! The warm air coming from the radiator is nothing compared to how hot the sc itself gets from being operated. Also remember it is an aluminum casting bolted to an aluminum head. Therefore it is conconducting heat from the cylinder head wich it is touching and the head is much hotter than warm air from the radiator that it is not even touching. Does that make any sense?
Exactly how much difference polishing makes who knows? Most people get it ported and rebuilt as well because they have to completly disasemble it to polish it. Another cause of heat is common with a smaller pulley where the rotors actually scrape the the housing. They look for spots where this has occured and polish them so it will no longer rub. Depending on how bad your bearing were, how big the area where it rubbed was and how fast the sc was spinning across those areas will have a huge affect on IAT temps as well.
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Wade Jarvis wrote:Mr.Goodwrench-G.T.
No offense but you are way off! The warm air coming from the radiator is nothing compared to how hot the sc itself gets from being operated. Also remember it is an aluminum casting bolted to an aluminum head. Therefore it is conconducting heat from the cylinder head wich it is touching and the head is much hotter than warm air from the radiator that it is not even touching. Does that make any sense?
Exactly how much difference polishing makes who knows? Most people get it ported and rebuilt as well because they have to completly disasemble it to polish it. Another cause of heat is common with a smaller pulley where the rotors actually scrape the the housing. They look for spots where this has occured and polish them so it will no longer rub. Depending on how bad your bearing were, how big the area where it rubbed was and how fast the sc was spinning across those areas will have a huge affect on IAT temps as well.
That is exactly my point, it is getting hot air from everywhere, under hood temps is extremely high, just open up the hood after driving it and feel the whoosh effect from that heat as it escapes, that heat is what is going to that charger as that shiny charger is conducting all that heat in.
We will only know by using IAT sensor's reading on a standard (non-ported) S/C with before (painted) and after (shiny).
From the looks of it, leaving the S/Cer shiny is only good for aesthetic purposes only.
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-----The orginal Mr.Goodwrench on the JBO since 11/99-----
You are missing my point. My point is that the sc is hotter than everything else around it so it is radiating heat not absorbing it from the engine bay. The only place it would absorb heat from is the head.
I do not think anyone has even had there sc polished externaly only. Most get it ported and the spot where it scrapes on the inside polished along with a rebuild. So I doubt we will ever know the benefit or possible lack thereof as you suggest of just an external polish. On a side note I was always one of the people who wanted to know before and after IAT temps resulting from the porting and polish. I really regret not having used whatever tool scan tool is needed to be able to show before and after.
My whole reason for exterior polishing was for looks. I had the inside ported, polished, and rebuilt for performance.
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