Yea, it's always reading 5v or 104kpa which I thought was weird and what makes me think I might have the MAP plugged in the wrong spot or bad MAP. I do have a spare so I guess I'll swap 'em and see what happens.

With that said, for some reason I'm not leaning out as much at WOT with full boost as with the previous motor. That's nice.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Friday, July 06, 2007 11:05 AM

Oh, and I forgot about another thing. When I'm coasting under no load, i.e., with the clutch disengaged, my RPMs will hang around 2k, sometimes climb, usually drop to around 1.5k and then finally drop to normal idle speed once I all but come to a stop.

Watching the Tech 2 while this happened I noticed that it would constantly go from open loop to closed loop. Every time it would go to open loop, at about 2mph, idle would drop to a normal speed. It would hang during closed loop until it switched back to open loop.

Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't closed loop for a when the motor is cold? Why would it switch back and forth and why would my RPMs hang under no load? Could it be the O2 sim?

Closed loop is when the O2s are heated up to their minimum temps and the ECU starts taking info from all the sensors, instead of running off pre-set maps in open loop. If the ECU sees a large enough fault that throws the CEL, it'll put the car in open loop and even into limp mode, to stave off possible catastrophic failures.




14.330 @ 96.37mph

Quote:


Oh, and I forgot about another thing. When I'm coasting under no load, i.e., with the clutch disengaged, my RPMs will hang around 2k, sometimes climb, usually drop to around 1.5k and then finally drop to normal idle speed once I all but come to a stop.

This is normal.



FU Tuning

I don't recall it doing that before, at least not as pronounced.

FIX THE GAT DAM MAP ISSUE YOU ARE HAVING

that should correct the issues your having , how freakin ignorant can you get ??

and before you ask "HELL YES THE MAP WILL CAUSING YOU RUNNING RICH AT IDLE "

[quote=97trd(???™)]FIX THE GAT DAM MAP ISSUE YOU ARE HAVING

that should correct the issues your having , how freakin ignorant can you get ??

and before you ask "HELL YES THE MAP WILL CAUSING YOU RUNNING RICH AT IDLE "Take a chill pill. When I get a chance, I will. Have things like work and school to take care of. That's why I posted this yesterday... looking for some insight so I can tool around this weekend.

As for the ignorant comment, sorry my father (whos been a mechanic all his working life) and I don't have the knowledge you do and couldn't solve it so simply. We sincerely apologize.

I've been having the same problems with my new (used) motor wanting to stall out and die sometimes when pulling out....gets annoying.

well he cant be that good if you guys cant find a simple map problem

a , you got no vacuum signal

b, you got a cut wire to it

c , its bad


cant be any freakin simpler

I'm at a loss. This worked fine before the old motor spun a bearing, I'm confident we hooked it all back up exactly the same but I've got these problems... even if I switch to the spare MAP which I know works I get the same issues.

I know the wires are intact, I'm getting a reading back from the Tech2.

I did just notice in the install manual that the vacuum hose feeding the MAP goes straight from the SC to the MAP. Jason and whomever helped him set it up have a T in that line, the T going to a one-way check-valve which vented to atmosphere. I decided to try and "plug" it by flipping the valve around since there was nothing like that in the manual and all that ended up doing was making the computer dump fuel all the time. I went ahead and flipped it back around after a very short drive and it's still just dumping fuel, not as much, though. Matter of fact, AFR under boost are the best I've seen yet. Didn't go over 13 once.

I know I've got a working MAP, probably two, and I know the wiring is fine. My concern is this vent because I don't see it in the manual, is this required for the non-boost reading computers?

Oh, and if you can't help without being condescending or an @!#$, don't bother replying. There's plenty of people here willing to help and be friendly, I don't need your advice if you can't do the same.

rip that check vavle out. you dont need it. it is probably leaking and causing your problems. i helped install that s/c, and dont remember installing a check vavle.

but regardless, remove it and just run a striaght vaccumm line and let us know.

good luck

I tried that, theoretically. I just flipped the valve around so that it was "plugged." I'll try pulling it and just replacing that T'd tube with a straight tube and see if it makes any difference.

I was trying to get ahold of some of the guys who helped Jason install it but haven't had any luck. I don't know where the check-valve came from but I sure didn't add it. That's why I was so confused, I wasn't getting this code before and now it's popping up.

please double check all the wires , i bet 1 of them is cut some where

the map value shown with the tech 2 will change if you plug a map into the plug , because there is always a pressure on the map

Any update on your issues Zeke? Mine just kinda went away.

he prob got to mad at me and wont reply back , lol

Nope, it's been at the transmission shop since Tuesday and I just picked it up a few hours ago after work so I haven't been able to touch it 'cause I'm in school right now. It's still throwing the code, though I'm was expecting it to fix itself. I'll be doing some troubleshooting tomorrow after work.

Pulled out the SAFC II that has been dead since the first motor went and now it runs fine.