I'm not sure if there is any place that manufatures custom oil lines for our cars and from my experiance it is one of the hardest parts about going custom.. I'm sure this will be different depending on what turbo you are using, for me it is a Turbonetics TO4B Super S ball bearing turbo, the feed like is tapped for a 1/8" NTP fitting and the drain side of mine is equipped with a 10AN downdrain plate. so thats how i'm going to set this up.
Parts needed:
2X Fragola Part # 100110 (10AN hose coupler fitting)
1X Fragola Part # 497110 (Weldable 10AN male fitting for oil pan)
2X Fragola Part # 481604 (-4AN to 1/8 NTP Adapter fittings)
1X AFCO Part # 40262-24 (2ft" braided line with -4AN fittings)
1X2FT Fragola Part # 700010 (10AN braided line per ft. be sure to mention you need 2 ft to be safe)
1X Autometer 2278 tubing adapter
Tools needed (minimum):
Adjustable wrench
Hacksaw with metal blade
electrical tape
teflon or PTFE tape
OPTIONAL:
cut off saw
box end wrench set (met. and std.)
AN wrenchs
Now once you have the parts its pretty self explanatory, you take your 2 ft section of 4an line and screw in your 2 fragola adapters, one will go to the turbo.. the other into the Autometer adapter and into the side of your block for you eco guys.
Then you will see you will have to fit your AN adapters onto the 2 ft of hose you got. I would start off with one, find out what you need to cut and then merge the other end on.. there are detailed instructions here...
http://www.fragolaperformancesystems.com/38series3000hosecuttingassembly/series3000hosecuttingassembly.html
Then for anywhere from 70-100$ you have your oil lines out of the way.
TAPPING THE OIL PAN(ECOtec)
The best way to tap the oil pan is to buy the 10AN weldable fitting(or any) and have it TIG welded onto the oil pan because the threaded ones are notorious for leaks. You should be able to find a shop in your are that can do the welding for you.
As far as getting the pan off its no big deal at all.. here's how I did it.
TOOLS/EQUIPMENT
-A good METRIC ratchet set 3/8 or 1/2(maybe both to make it easier)
-a floor jack and 2 jackstands
-wood block
-LOTS of towels
-heat gun(optional)
-Prybar or screwdriver
-RTV sealant to reseal oil pan upon reassembly
-1 Can of brake clean or equivelent to get leftover oil off block/pan
-Tap set if nessecary
-Put a jack under the oil pan (be sure to use a block of wood between)
-Put jackstands uner the subframe so you have access to all the bolts without having anything in your way.
-Drain oil (good time for an oil change)
-while the oil is draing you should start taking all the electric connectors off the dipstick and take out the 10mm bolt that holds it on the intake manifold
-start pulling all the bolts out, this will require taking 2 out of the tranny and taking off the lower motor mount assembly which is no big deal because they are easily accesable.
-then once you get ALL of them out the pan will be stuck by the factory RTV used. There are plenty of spots around the pan to use a prybar or screwdriver to pry the pan off.. I would recommend that method, blows to the oil pan with feet/ dead blow hammers dont help much
*I used a heat gun to soften the RTV around the pan*
-This is where all the towels come in, lay them all over to avoid a mess, other forms of containment would work too.
-Peel the pan off the block and manuever the dipstick through the wiring etc.
-place fitting directly above the drain plug
-Clean all surfaces very well to ensure no metal is returned into your oil system.
-put it all back together tightening oil pan bolts from the inside working your way out in a cross pattern.
DONT FORGET THE OIL!!
------------------------------------------------------------
