So I finally got my money for my build and am getting ready to get stuff ordered. I'm new to turbo's (or anything involving turbos) and was curious to see where people are getting/got their parts from. I am pretty sure I want to run the tial wastegate and BOV and kinda decided on the turbo but I was wondering if there is a company that makes charge pipes for the LD9. I cant seem to find anything online for the 2.4 (appears to be some stuff for the ecotec) but just wondering if most people just got theirs fabricated. I'm planning on running a go-autoworks intercooler but am still kinda up in the air about the turbo manifold. I found a company in canada, STR, which make cast iron turbo manifolds. The only other log style I could seem to find was vulcans but having STR in canada it would save me a lot on duty/shipping as well the price isn't too bad and its in canadian dollars. They appear to be of ok quality, but where my goals are just 300hp I feel it will do the trick and then if I decide to upgrade later so be it. Wondering if anyone building/has built a kit has any helpfull pointers/suggestions I'd appreciate it. I'm stepping into a new form of forced induction and don't really know much about it at this point but its a lot of fun planning/deciding on my build. Its taken a lot of thought to do it (much more than just slapping on the mp45) Anyways, any assistance would be appreciated.

i got my turbo and wg and bov from atp, im running the tial stuff as well and i love them. i love the sound of the BOV. best sound imo vs others. not sure of too many people that make pre fab charge pipes. i know atomic was working on a 2.4 turbo manifold also but not sure about fitting an automatic.

good luck though in your build!

First off, I got most of my turbo stuff from atpturbo.com. They have a lot of universal stuff that your looking for. I got the WG, boost controller, wideband from a local performance shop. The charge pipes were fabricated because no there is nobody out there that makes a charge pipe kit for our cars. Hopefully you know somebody that welds. I got all of my fittings and braided lines from Jegs since they are local as well.

I mentioned to ya that my log manifold was made by a Honda builder and that I couldn't so to speak, 'buy' it anywhere because obviously they are not sold by a lot of people.

I got a lot of my internal engine parts from Karo, and TTR.

If I think of other stuff Ill post up.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

I bought mine from DCstang pre done if you need measurements. Also I have a log style mild steel exploited (from their pre do*chbaggery times) it is set for a t3/4 I ended up going with a t3 super 60 with a .48 ar. if you need the manifold it is in brand new never mounted condition.

I'm getting most of my engine parts from TTR but they don't have the ARP stuff so I'll need to find that elsewhere. I'm trying to find used turbo stuff if I can find it but seems to be hard to find tial stuff that is in good shape. I have to get the s/c off so I can sell it. I have a coolingmist meth injection and wonder if I should keep it and run it with the turbo or just sell it?

Get in touch with Karo about the ARP studs, it may take a while from ARP to get them(we all suffered through the wait time) but you will get em.

Yea you can use the meth.











~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

i opted to go new for the tial stuff just so it was more reliable than something used. just dont cheap out on the turbo kit. you will regret it in the long run. just be careful where you buy. take your time and plan it out.

I see car customs has the main and head stud kits listed so I am probably going to order them from there. I can't decide if I should port and polish my head. I'm looking for 300whp and would hate to see me only be able to reach 295whp and knowing if I had p&p the head I would have got to my goals. I just don't want to get the motor back together and not reach my goals.

As for the charge pipes. Will any universal kit work? I see ebay has some listed but don't know what the quality of they are.

I am calling about my motor tomorrow and I'm hoping its out of the car because I need to get the bore of the pistons to know if the wiesco .20 overbore will work. If it does I'll be ordering the motor parts next week. I'll have time to poke away at the turbo stuff for a bit but I want the car ready perferably for mid may but no later than june for my birthday. I still have soooo much stuff to get. I'll need to find injectors that fit the cobalt as I modified my fuel rail and will need to figure out a fuel pump as well. It feels like its gonna be so long till I get to take the car for its first drive, and thats if my clutch holds the power I'm sure I will be re-posting soon for more assistance. Thanks for the help so far.

I would port and polish while you are at it, but it is not something you will have to do to get the power you want. I tuned a done stock LD9 with a twin charged kit to 266whp, which is about 285crank. If he would have dumped the charged and went straight turbo we could have gotten 300whp.

Still do the port and polish!

Charge pipes I would not do a ebay kit. Or just buy stainless from ebay and then do the mock up your self and have it welded locally. Most ebay kits are designed for alot of couplers. The more you have the better chance in the pipes popping off and denting your hood ( ).



FU Tuning

Was looking more at the kits that came with different bends and whatnot. I'm gonna have to find a place to fit/weld it anyways. Just wondering if the pipe is any good? I'm not really looking for a show car finish, just something that works well and looks half decent.

Yea I wouldnt use ebay for piping either because its not gonna fit 100% Your still gonna have to do some cutting and welding. Buy some aluminum piping whichever rout you go.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ

have you decided on a turbo yet?

I would just find one of those kits I was telling you about with the mandrel bends instead of doing the ebay thing.

I think you can get your numbers without the port and polish provided you have the proper turbo and boost levels.

You can probably find someone more local who sells ARP... I know that Road Rage sells ARP head studs for the D16 because that's where I got mine so you could prob get them closer to you than having to go through the states. The price was good too. You could just get them sent to you or pick them up if you're in the area.

The tennis racket trophy is waiting for the winner. Hurry up with that build. Imports vs Domestic biaaaaaaattttchhhh.
and
Since your motor is 1½ times the displacement of mine, I 'll start half track. Deal? Deal!

I am pretty sure I am going to run a TO4E either the 57 or 60 trim. I am still up in the air about the turbo manifold. There are a few used ones for sale, but I'm wanting to run a 38mm wastegate. The STR company I emailed hasn't got back to me yet and it has been a week or so, I may need to look elsewhere. I have the HO intake manifold on the way as well as the intake cam. Ordering the ARP studs soon. I am wondering if I would be safe to run just the ARP head studs and just run stock main studs?

I just got a TO4 Aireasearch Turbo, .60 ar, looking into a custom exhaust set up to fit that huge ace turbo!!!

I'm thinking of moving the battery to the trunk and routing the exhaust flow over to that area and mounting the turbo in place of the battery.
From there I'll route the exhaust back over to the stock locations and out.
This bad boy is huge but I got a great deal on it just $80 for it and it is almost new no shaft play at all and got the oil lines with it, plus some pre fabricated 2 1/2 inch intake tubes with a huge BOV, I don't know what psi it is set at though and its not adjustable, so I might not use it.



http//www.umods.org/drift.html
umods@live.com/ddiaz@umods.org

^^^^^REALLY? Start your own thread and quick jacking.

Matthew, you will be fine running ARP head studs and stock mains. But the stock main studs are torque to yield so grab some brand new GM ones. I used stock mains on my first build, but when I blew the HG I bought some ARP Main studs.

So, it would be a good Idea to get the ARP mains the first time around. Its not a must, but worth it.










~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ