Hey guys, just wondering what clutch you suggest and if you stick with the stock flywheel or not.
For boost, I would always stick with stock flywheel.
This maintains momentum, and helps with turbo lag.
Im using the Bully stage 4 sprung 6 puck.
Its been holding great, Im guessing I put down 340-360hp.
I have a fully built 2200 puching 22-25 psi.
Bobby Higgins wrote:For boost, I would always stick with stock flywheel.
This maintains momentum, and helps with turbo lag.
Im using the Bully stage 4 sprung 6 puck.
Its been holding great, Im guessing I put down 340-360hp.
I have a fully built 2200 puching 22-25 psi.
Thanks Ill check them out.
Still looking for others inputs, keeping options open
Same thing I'm running
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
Anyone else with input on the flywheel?
I'm running stock
RIP Cpl Derek Kerns And Cpl Robby Reyes
24th MEU VMM-261 (REIN) V22 Crewchiefs
11 April 2012 Morocco (African Lion)
ill just put it this way.... the top three fastest j-bodies on here, brandon fetter, adam hahn, and camron ALL ran aluminum flywheels. all over 500whp and 11 seconds or faster. as did brian speedracer with his beast... didnt seem to effect their turbo lag. if aluminum was good enough for them, its good enough for you.
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
I love my aluminum flywheel. But I have heard a lot of guys saying they switched back to stock and were happier.
"In Oldskool we trust"
ive also heard on here the stock flywheel is fine.
GMR has got nothing on this
I have an 11 sec capable car. Has gone 12.4 with older smaller turbo.
I has aluminum flywheel.
But don't think it matters much.
DOHC_tuner wrote:ive also heard on here the stock flywheel is fine.
lol nobody is arguing that you need an aluminum fw. just saying the reports of it causing lag or false knock are completely unfounded.
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
On the turbo ln2 going back to a stock flywheel did help with faster spool up. I also ran both a stock and aluminum flywheel when I had my mp62 on the eco and is stick with stock flywheel if i were to do it again....but thats just me.
JUCNBST wrote:when I had my mp62 on the eco and is stick with stock flywheel if i were to do it again.
Can you explain why? And I mean that honestly because I've never run my m62 setup without an aluminum fw.
"In Oldskool we trust"
With the aluminum flywheel the motor did rev faster but it didn't hold power while shifting. As with the stock flywheel would actually spin the tires from 2nd into 3rd when the lighter flywheel would only chip them. My dyno numbers in my sig were made with the aluminum flywheel. Shortly after i had the car dyno tuned, I replaced the clutch and switched back to the stock flywheel and the car seemed to pull harder....Then the slave cylinder needed to be replaced and for @!#$s I put the aluminum flywheel on again and I regreted it.
And since removing and selling the blower I still have the ld9 act 6 puck clutch disc, spec stg 2 pressure plate and the aluminum flywheel on the car. Once I finish my turbo motor I will be putting a stock flywheel on and ditching my aluminum one.
The turbo LN2 my buddy has ran an aluminum flywheel and didn't really build boost until 3300 rpm's now with the forged motor with slightly lower compression and stock flywheel the car starts building boost around 2300 rpms
Interesting. So you're saying that you'll likely make more HP on a dyno with an aluminum fw but you hold your powerband better and have more control with the stocker. Meaning you could possibly pull a better quarter time with the stock fw; speculation of course. Thanks for the info man you guys have made me curious about my stock fw. I may swap it in the next time I do a clutch or have the tranny out..
"In Oldskool we trust"
JUCNBST wrote:With the aluminum flywheel the motor did rev faster but it didn't hold power while shifting. As with the stock flywheel would actually spin the tires from 2nd into 3rd when the lighter flywheel would only chip them. My dyno numbers in my sig were made with the aluminum flywheel. Shortly after i had the car dyno tuned, I replaced the clutch and switched back to the stock flywheel and the car seemed to pull harder....Then the slave cylinder needed to be replaced and for @!#$s I put the aluminum flywheel on again and I regreted it.
And since removing and selling the blower I still have the ld9 act 6 puck clutch disc, spec stg 2 pressure plate and the aluminum flywheel on the car. Once I finish my turbo motor I will be putting a stock flywheel on and ditching my aluminum one.
The turbo LN2 my buddy has ran an aluminum flywheel and didn't really build boost until 3300 rpm's now with the forged motor with slightly lower compression and stock flywheel the car starts building boost around 2300 rpms
lol so your argument for using the steel flywheel versus the aluminum is because you would lose more traction between shifts, do i have that correct?
and you are comparing ur buddies spool time from a stock engine with alum. fw to stock fw with completely different engine. how does that work?
lol
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Friday, March 08, 2013 6:30 PM
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
Running low 12's with a stock style upgraded flywheel. I think my car shifts better with the heavier flywheel, but it definitely spooled quicker with the aluminum.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
I am getting my stock fw resurfaced and going with a 6 puck stage 3 or 4 spec clutch. I have a stage 2 on my DD and haven't any problems with it and still grabs hard. After +30k
-Z Yaaaa- wrote:
lol so your argument for using the steel flywheel versus the aluminum is because you would lose more traction between shifts, do i have that correct?
and you are comparing ur buddies spool time from a stock engine with alum. fw to stock fw with completely different engine. how does that work?
lol
Brad, I'm sure you have done mods that have made a noticeable difference but could only describe them short of taking people for back to back rides.....aside from a dyno chart from the same dyno that my car was on last I can't really think of a way to describe the difference other than how I did. the added weight of the stocker just helped keep the momentum going and it pulled harder.
As for the LN2 turbo car. The new motor has lower than stock compression and a non ported head with a slightly bigger exhaust. We swapped back to the stock one after I had been talking to QWK CAV about advice on the build. He suggested going back to stock because it helps with putting a load on the engine and helping lower spool time. He ditched his aluminum flywheel for a stock one with his 400+ ln2. I drove the car with both flywheels multiple times and I will never go back to an aluminum flywheel on my eco or any other boosted dd I own.
well thats fine, man. to each their own.
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.