that 70 trim may be to big im not sure, people mave had good luck with the super 60's.
That's pretty much is what I have in mind that i'm going to do In a bit here to the motor. I already Ported and Polished the head and got 1mm oversized valves for it.
As for pistons I was gonna do some venolia 9:1's and bore the block .20 over. You may want lower. like 8:1. For rods I would look into the Eagle H beam Rods. I was going to get a FI cam from jbodyperformance but i found a place in town that would grind me a new one.
I agree with Phlatcav that the 70 trim may be too big, and go with a super 60
With that turbo and this:
Quote:
i am also planning on getting a cartech adj. fmu, high impedence injectors, e-manage or s-afc-2, turbo timer, electric boost controller, and gauges
It will not work. You WILL need a stand alone engine management. That is a similar turbo that both Mike Karas and Crash (Ben) run/ran on their cars and they had to use the Haltech and TEC3
Read my registry as I am about go to the machine shop to have everything finally installed after svaing, building, and researching the past two years.
I will try and Im sure Adler, JuicedZ4, and a few others can help you out. But you need to do a little more research if you are planning on using the big stuff, b/c the list you have minus the turbo is a build for someone that only wants about ~250hp
He could probably use that size turbo with a FMU with bigger injectors, but tuning might be kind of tricky. If he could get everything worked out with Emanage, I wouldnt doubt that he would be able to make alot of power with that turbo. I bet that he would have lots of lag tho... It is has a T4 60-1 compressor housing with a .84 a/r turbine housing with a stage 5 wheel
. I am thinking that the turbine housing and turbine might be kind of big for a mildy built 2.2. There are one or two 2.2 ohv guys using that same compressor housing while using a a .63 a/r turbine housing with a stage 3 wheel getting full boost (10psi or so) around 4500-4800 rpm....just think of how much more lag there would be if they were using that stage 5 turbine inside of a .84 a/r housing.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
www.cheapturbo.com or www.turbostore.com for your turbo.
Who said he needed a stand alone? He doesn't need it at all. The reason those two ran it is because of the limitations of the stock setup.
O noes!
so i shopuld get a smaller trim turbo, and a stage 3 compressor. i basically want to get the most hp out of my 2200 and i also am getting my 3 spd built with a higher gear ratio like 3.48 and a higher stall converter. so i was looking to get around 250+ hp if i could.
adler what else would i need to do to my motor to have it built completely. i already have a bigger throttle body, cav connection pulleys, rsm motor mounts, and im planning on upgrading the fuel and spark for my motor. looking at the msd coils, 10mm wires if i can find them, grounding kit, msd dis-2, and the only thing i want that i cant get et is an upgraded ecu.
I would looking into getting emanage.
Quote:
adler what else would i need to do to my motor to have it built completely. i already have a bigger throttle body, cav connection pulleys, rsm motor mounts, and im planning on upgrading the fuel and spark for my motor. looking at the msd coils, 10mm wires if i can find them, grounding kit, msd dis-2, and the only thing i want that i cant get et is an upgraded ecu.
Lets take a look at Adlers mods list:
Held MotorSport lower engine mount
RK Sport upper engine mount insert
NGK TR5 copper plugs # 2238: cross number HR8DCX
MSD 8.5mm plug wires
ASP crank pulley
Casper Elec. o2 simulator
Spare 2200 2.2 longblock
Ported & polished head - shaved .015
SI stainless steel valves (*)
balanced crank (*)
O-ringed block (*)
Venolia forged .020 over 9:1 pistons w/oversized & floating wrist pins (*)
pin oilers
spirl locks
custom made Total Seal TS1 gapless piston rings (*)JBP has some
Eagle ESP H-beam forged connecting rods-machined for oversized floating wrist pins(*)
Clevite 77 rod bearings (*)
Clevite 77 main bearings (*)
Clevite 77 cam bearings (*)
SPEC stage 4 clutch/ 6-puck unsprung disk (*) or Stg3
Cavalier Connection copper headgasket (*) or cometic gasket if you can get one made
Cavalier Connection chromoly headstuds (*)
Garrett T3/T4 60 trim
Cavalier Connection turbo header-with Jet Hot 2000 degree coating (*) Coating
3 inch downpipe-ceramic coated
Cavalier Connection modified oil fill tube
Cavalier Connection turbo feed line
Spearco intercooler 25" X 8.5" w/ a 3" core
TurboXS Type H-RFL blow off valve
30 lbs injectors (*) or higher
Vortec T-Rex inline fuel pump (*)
Cartech FMU (*)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your list
p&p head
radius valve job
1mm oversized valves
bored out .30"
8:1 or 8.5:1 cant decide yet any help would be great
crower rods
mantapart camshaft
bigger throttle body,
cav connection pulleys,
rsm motor mounts
Everything in his mod list I think you should gun for I put an (*) by! Adler since I last checked was around the 200-210hp mark and you're looking for a little more then that so I would use his list as a reference! Build the bottom end, work on the drivetrain, get a nice piggyback like the E-manage unless you're going all out then check out Electromotives Tec III.......Im sure you'll get more advice from Adler and others but also look around on Jbodyperformance.com for more things you can buy to strengthen your engine for that many lbs of boost! Hope everything works out!
N2O + Bolt-ons
= 220Hp/
250Tq
Coming Soon:HpTunersPro, EagleConnectingRods, WiescoPistons, 13sec2200
how big of a compressor housing should i use, what size a/r turbine housing, and what stage wheel should i use if i want to run 20 psi of boost. the internals will all be replaced so i want to run at least 20 psi. im looking to get around 200 to the crank at least if i get more than that would be awesome. any suggestions will help. thax in advance you guys have been very helpful so far.
dude check it out, i got this book, "maximum boost". I reccomend picking it up and reading it cover to cover, anything and everything you need to know about turbos and putting a kit together. you can pick up a copy at just about any bookstore. i got mine on ebay for $20, its worth it, read it, learn it, boost it. laterz.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/747651
http://www.JuiceBoxHeroes.com
Bob Figueiredo wrote:how big of a compressor housing should i use, what size a/r turbine housing, and what stage wheel should i use if i want to run 20 psi of boost. the internals will all be replaced so i want to run at least 20 psi. im looking to get around 200 to the crank at least if i get more than that would be awesome. any suggestions will help. thax in advance you guys have been very helpful so far.
It would probably be a good idea to email some turbo manufactures about turbo size. Or just look around on here for what size other 2.2s are running. With 20psi on the right turbo, you SHOULD be around 300hp or more.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
Or just learn how to read a compressor map to figure out the compressor size. I have had pretty good luck with a .48 a/r turbine housing with a stage 3 wheel. Dan Cotter is using a .48 a/r turbine housing, but I am not forsure what turbine wheel he is using.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
awesome thanx adler and everyone, i am definetly looking for 20 psi cause i believe my internals can hold it, plus the car wont be driven all the time once the work is all done, if i could get 300 whp or even 300 to the crank i would consider it an accomplishment especially since my car comes stock with 115 to the crank and prolly 80 to the wheels with the 3 spd. man i cant wait to get everything together.
also if i got a cartech adjustable fmu would i still need to get an adj. fpr or no and could i run a universal oil cooler through either the feed or return line of the turbo instead of getting the oil cooler from rk thats about $120, just tryin to save $100. thanx everyone again
also is it possible to run the return line back to the oil pan or do i have to modify the dipstick?
what a waste of money.....for that money you could buy a 2.4 stock engine turbo it and still be faster than your built 2.2 and have a ton more torque and horsepower
Goodbye Bobby, May God grant you the peace you never found in life.
“Here's my counter-offer to your counter-offer: go f**k yourself.”
—Al Swearengen
that turbo is waaaay to big you might spool at 5000 -6000 rpms im running a garret T3T04E w/ 50 trim and 47a/r and my 2200 will spool it at 3000 rpms.
You have bass I have BOOST
crash whats a waste of money to you might not be waste of money to someone else, so if you have no positive feedback to help me out then just keep your comments to yourself, maybe i enjoy building something that a lot of people do not build, i would rather be original than be like everyone else. but you know what thanks for the comment cause that makes me want to do it even more.
Quote:
what a waste of money.....for that money you could buy a 2.4 stock engine turbo it and still be faster than your built 2.2 and have a ton more torque and horsepower
So you know the breaking point of a built 2.2? please fill me in, id like to know
i think its pretty much impossible to make a thread about turbo 2.2s without any of this
Crash wrote:what a waste of money.....for that money you could buy a 2.4 stock engine turbo it and still be faster than your built 2.2 and have a ton more torque and horsepower
And you would still have to worry about the stock rods and cast pistons failing.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
.....Also forgot to add the cost of a 2.4 transmission, wiring harness, and possibly the ecu.
275hp & 306tq - 1999 2.2 ohv
13.2 @ 108 mph
-1996 2.4 liter + Turbo + Built motor + Torco + More boost = Lots o' Power
-2000 Mustang GT + 2004 Cobra motor, Whipple 2.3 supercharger,
built rear-end,Dodge Viper spec T56 6 speed, bolt-ons = wheelies at the track!!!!!
so anyways now that we proved crash wrong, what size turbo do u think will give me the power i want, caus elike i said i am going to try for 20 psi, now the .84 a/r turbine housing and a stage 5 wheel is to big, so is it ok to say go with a .63 or a .48 and a stage 3 wheel? i am prolly gonna try to call a few turbo places tomorrow and find out cause i cant really get the grasp on the compression charts. but thanx again guys you make this process a hell of a lot easier
i would prob go with a .63 a/r exhaust w/ stage 2 or 3 wheel and a super 60 trim compr...i dont know too much about turbo sizes but i think that will be enough to pump out some CFM at 20 PSI. I would stick with the .63 a/r for exhaust and maybe get a nice size comp. housing..
or you could get lucky like me and and have a 2200 that could handle 19 psi for 20k miles and i didnt touch the in side of the motor. It finely had enough and bent a rod after
20 thousand miles. My friend had the same set up as me ( T3T04E 50 trim 47a\r, 33"-7"-3" front mount intercooler, cartech FMU, 42lb ford racing injectors, 255lph intank fuel pump.) and his 2200 thew a rod after 500 miles of 15psi. i think it all depends on how well the motor and parts were put together at the factory.
and we both ran a good AFR on the dyno
You have bass I have BOOST
