okay, so looks like i have to find a transmision (auto eco 05 motor) (not sure if there is any diffrence in trannys between say an 02-05)for the fire, so im going to head out to my local pick a part yards and see what's available. if one is available i'll be pulling it there in the yard, this is a nice yard though, all cars are on concrete and on jackstands so the car is allready lifted. just trying to figure out the whole removal sequence so i can remember to bring everything i need and any speacial things i need to remember as im doing this like do i need to support the motor. should i support the tranny. do i just pull the axles and then follow the bolts where the transmission meets up with the motor? and when i get that last bolt off is the transmission just going to drop or do i have to disengage it from the motor somehow. im guessing i'll have to take the entire transmission mount off to get the transmission some play to wiggle it free. any help would be appreciated, i allready know im going to forget some tool and have to run home for it. (just know it will happen lol)
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Well after working on nissans for 9 years i can say that my cav's trans was the easiest one i've ever done. We did mine on the ground with 2 jacks under the car. 1 under the motor for support and one under the trans to lower it out. We also took out the subframe to get clearance for the trans to come out the bottom, there all 15mm bolts. Make sure you bring a long extension for the back 2 bolts, you'll need to go from the pass. wheel well to get to them. You'll need to pull the starter to get to the 3 flywheel/torque plate bolts. The trans mount will definitely have to come off to give you the clearance to come out and no the trans wont just slide off after the bolts are out. You'll need to pry it some as there are 2 alignment pins. You can also look at saturns for cars will the eco in it. My trans came out of a 02 saturn. Good luck.
remove all the electrical plugs. a small flathead or pick set will do the trick here.
remove the drain bolt. if you don't have a large allen to do it, then it'll drain when you pull the axles.
I've always removed the axles completely from the car to take the trans out, but the axle nut is a pain, especially without air tools. you can try just pulling the axles from the trans but leaving the other ends in the spindles. if you have to remove the axle nut, I believe it's something like a 21mm or 22mm socket.
disconnect the shift cables. good prybar will do this.
undo all the bolts from the bellhousing going into the motor.
support the bottom of the trans/motor. pulling the trans by itself means the trans will have to come out through the bottom. you'll need to support the motor, as taking the trans out takes away the support for the rear of the motor. once the engine support is there (cherry picker or something similar), use a prybar and a good amount of wiggling to separate the trans from the motor. lower it down and slide it out of the car.
that's about the gist of it.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
whoops... forgot to add-in the part about the trans mounts. sorry.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
His cars a auto so no real drain plug. The axle nuts are actually a 30mm. Also the shift cable is bolted down on the auto. Other than that, about the same
Be sure to bring a BFH to separate the lower ball joints from the spindles, among other uses. Pickle/tuning fork may come in handy for this as well. Having subframe removed will assist greatly in removing axles. Unbolt the steering rack from the subframe and let it hang, don't need to take it out. You dont necessarily need to support the engine of the vehicle you're removing the trans from.
14.330 @ 96.37mph
Normally I would agree to not support the motor while pulling the tranny, but the Ecotec upper motor mount sucks at supporting the motor and can break.
FU Tuning
Its not bad at all. Just remove the k member and trans mount and your set.
Jason if you have time and the patience I would definately remove the subframe, if not just unbolt the rack and pinion and then let the subframe dangle or whatever.
I took my whole subframe off when I pulled my tranny. If you don't take it off when pulling, definately take it off when installing it in your fire.
Now that I think about it, maybe you can pull the WHOLE motor and tranny at the hard, set that bish on the ground then unbolt the tranny. Leave the engine there and be on your way lol. Ive seen guys do that before. That way you won't have to support anything. Take the axles out, undo all the mounts then pull.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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went to the yard today no luck, first found a malibu with what i thought was the right tranny but after a phonecall realised it was diffrent, wich sucked butt becaue the motor was allready yanked and the trans was just sitting in there, i found two eco's in the lot and both of them had been hit on the driver side pushing the whole frame right into the trans and although it looked good i wasnt going to even risk trying them. if i had needed a 2200 or 2.4 i could have pulled about two dozen lol just my luck.
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well found a yard about an hour away that has two transmissions so tonight i should have one. will be paying more, but i wont have to pull it. will be starting on this sunday morning, so hopefully by next weekend the car will be running, guess i need to get me a new fmu so i can finish tuning the turbo.
im just hoping with my luck that when i swap trans it doesnt do the exact same thing lol. im thinking of taking my trans to a shop to have it looked at, thinking if its just the torque converter like the gm tech suggested i can just swap that out for a new one. maybe put an lsd in there and then put it back in down the line.
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