You can kinda see the sealed box in the 2nd picture... along with the yellow wire hanging down for the toyota tails. lol. I gotta get that back up there.
The firewall (95%done)
and the battery kill switch
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I'm not trying to be a d-bag, but what is the point of a kill switch? It looks ugly on the outside of your car. My guess is that it is some kind of racing thing.
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I think it's required for some race tracks and other car events.
Later
Redrider02
"i reject your reality and substitute my own." -adam savage "mythbusters"
it has to do with the battery in the trunk.
Im a level 32 joedm newb flamer.
What is the firewall for??
Just to keep a fire out of the battery exlpodes??
I would take the wire out from under the wall, drop the wall so it's all the way on the floor and then use a grommet to pass the wire thru the firewall. Then weld up the bottom or something and it'll be sealed (except for the rear deck).
-Seth
yeap... idk why its required, but track rules usually say you have to have one. Its just to disconnect the battery incase of any problems i suppose.
The key is removable, I just put it in for the picture. Im not driving around with the key in. That worries me that someone would f' with it while it was parked.
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Stenger wrote:yeap... idk why its required, but track rules usually say you have to have one. Its just to disconnect the battery incase of any problems i suppose.
The key is removable, I just put it in for the picture. Im not driving around with the key in. That worries me that someone would f' with it while it was parked.
Isn't a kill switch to avoid the car from working when it's removed??? Or you have one inside that replace the one outside when you're driving??? Just wondering!!
the handle is removeable, like in other words he can put it into his pocket, come back plug it in and turn on the batt... or so i believe thats what he ment
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98' Pontiac Sunfire SE
I had no idea he was that fast!
That is true about running faster then 10's BUT in some classes of racing if the battery is relocated to the trunk you HAVE to have the kill switch
Phlatcav wrote:I had no idea he was that fast!
i agree i think its pretty un-needed for only running 15's, i mean i understand why your doing it but shoudnt getting power in the engine be a more concern than some battery relocation deal that gives you 0 power? oh well its your car not mine, but if i seen a car with all that id expect it to be quick at least.
well the relocation is also to help handling. Because now with the 50ish or so pounds off the front driverside tire, traction can become a issue. Plans are once I order the suspension (2 weeks and counting), to take it auto-xing.
If I can achieve a better weight balance, using parts already in the car, than thats goal.
I will probably re run the wire. I just needed a mach up of the firewall or noctch the bottom so that it passes thru fine. then using the little scrap I have, add onto the bottom and around where the seat would typically be.
The firewall is a multi function. Although it is in a sealed box, there are 2 vents above the top post of the battery. So by having those, a little of the battery fumes can come out when it rains (and there toxic, I was getting a headache after rains and getting into my car. But once I rolled the windows down, the headaches would go away. So now that its in a sealed box and there is a firewall there to protect me from any fumes or fires, I feel much safier letting my girlfriend ride aroudn with me.
The switch is wired right now to let me not use the key. It is in the off position all the time. So no need to leave the key in. Howeve all I have to do to reconnect it is move the the wire to the switch, and all is golden. Its just to cover my ass incase a track or event rule requires a switch for trunk mounted batteries. Its not because im exceeding 9.99 Second 1/4's. (not in this car at least. We could always thru the bigblock back in the girlfriends 01 RaceTech RailCar
)
Im over all happy with the install. Tomorrow I am going to work on re-doing the intake to run straight, then into the fenderwell. Should allow for cooler air to come thru, at a higher velocity.
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You really do need to bring that firewall down and weld it at the top, sides and bottom. Technically the firewall is there to completely seal off the passenger compartment from the trunk (or where every you mount the battery). With it not being welded and sealed all the way around you completely defeat the whole purpose of having it there. Most techs that I have gone through (drag, auto-cross, lapping days) don't really care too much if there is a firewall, they are more so concerned that the battery is sercured properly and in a vented box. Also that sheel metal will cut threw the powerwire in no time, drill a hole and use a gromet. Other than those little things nice work.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
I wonder why they want the switch in the back! Wouldn't it serve more purpose to be right near the driver?
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Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:I wonder why they want the switch in the back! Wouldn't it serve more purpose to be right near the driver?
It is there so that if the car crashes and the driver can't shut the car down a track worker can still do it from outside the car.
Quoth the Raven 'Nevermore
raven@accesswave.ca
Raven Autosports
55 McQuade Lake Cres,
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
(902) 850-3330
10.82@132
Why don't you just get a good sealed, vented(w/tube to exterior) aluminum battery box. No need for a firewall, it's what I have.
I would like to see how you have done the switch though. Is it removable, so you can put the whole switch in for raceday???? Can you make a diagram, or take some pics, installed and not?
Jason
USACi =>146.9db
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raven wrote:Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:I wonder why they want the switch in the back! Wouldn't it serve more purpose to be right near the driver?
It is there so that if the car crashes and the driver can't shut the car down a track worker can still do it from outside the car.
Yeah but it really doesn't do a damn thing unless its also disconnecting the alternator.
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just get a optima yellow top battery and throw in the box and take out the stupid firewall thing... hell you can mount the optima without the case and be fine... if you autox the car having the battery there and the firewall may put you ina different class and you dont want that.... but hey i am not running it so um.. yea just a FYI... lol
BlackEco wrote:raven wrote:Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:I wonder why they want the switch in the back! Wouldn't it serve more purpose to be right near the driver?
It is there so that if the car crashes and the driver can't shut the car down a track worker can still do it from outside the car.
Yeah but it really doesn't do a damn thing unless its also disconnecting the alternator.
go outside start your car and then disonect the battery while its running, then come back and rethink that
Darkstars wrote:BlackEco wrote:raven wrote:Bballjamal (Cav-AtL) wrote:I wonder why they want the switch in the back! Wouldn't it serve more purpose to be right near the driver?
It is there so that if the car crashes and the driver can't shut the car down a track worker can still do it from outside the car.
Yeah but it really doesn't do a damn thing unless its also disconnecting the alternator.
go outside start your car and then disonect the battery while its running, then come back and rethink that
ive done it in older cars early 90's ive gotten a buddy a jump that way without jumper cables. we took my battery, put it in his car so he could start it, then i took it out while his car was running and put it back in mine and he drove home that way. it really all just depends on how your wiring is hooked up.
the firewall isnt really going to work unless you pull out the rear deck and seal that up as well as sealing up the openings that are under your rear side windows as well.
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Look at it this way... The firewall is just a added safety to me. If there was a fire (hopefully never is) or expolosion, it will help contain the fire long enough for my girlfriend (or passenger) and I to get out of the car safely.
as far as the swtich, I do not have it wired correctly right now. Not thinking about the car being ran off the alt. I wired it thru the battery cables. So I still have to run a wire to the altenator to shut it off as well.
It may envolve me getting a 3 or 4 post swicth instead of the 2 post I have now.
I plan to get a optima battery, but funds are tight, so its little by little. I only have about $50 into the the upgrades on the battery relocation. Firewall, battery box, cable, wire mounting eyes, sheetmetal screws, and the switch. I don't have the $180 to drop into a battery right now. However, it will be in a sealed box as well, just for extra protection, and saftey.
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