So i finally got a call back from the guy thats working on my car. The low down first is the fact i originally broke a timing chain and fried a ignition module. and then I had all the parts replaced with brand new ones. Then basically the exact same instance happened again. but it was number two had a melted/broken spark plug. and the ignition pack went again. So this time i got it replaced by a used one and then my car ran fine for two days no issues. Now this is the final issue that happaned(which ive been trying to research a answer for). It did the exact same thing the third time in a row. Now im getting from the mechanic that he did a compression test wet/dry that #1 cylander is 50 and the other three are between 170-200. So im guessing my engine is blown? I got my car back and he told me to find out if my engine is a "free engine" (easier to repair?). Sometimes is easier to buy a junker motor and drop it in instead of repairing it?

I would call it "modular" instead of "free". Free implies that I could go down the junkyard and take my pick. As for replacement over rebuilding, it depends on your abilities both in the wrench dept and in the wallet dept.

If you choose to rebuild the motor, you run the risk of removing the motor and trans as an assembly (believe it or not, a few bolts, a few wiring connectors and the entire assembly will drop out the bottom of the car, maybe 1 hour or less), disassembling the motor only to find the block scored or cracked or some other problem that would be astronomical to fix where as if you buy a motor off e-bay from one of the junk dealers (the reliable guys will always give you D.O.A. guarantee) and install it, you're running the chance of an engine with a whole new set of problems.

Bottom line is, do some research, talk to a few mechs, price both your options, then be prepared for the worst. If it was me, I would get some cash together, yank the motor and pull it apart and if it was trash, then order a new crate motor from GM with a warranty.

Yeah, if you're good at stuff pull the engine and check it out as Charlie said.
If you're not good, or the engine is toast, I'd find a phone book and lookup places that sell refurbished (or remanufactured) engines. Crate engines are expensive, remans aren't that bad.

If you're showing 50 on one cylinder, odds are you've got a broken compression ring on that piston, which almost ALWAYS scores the cylinder wall. Like these guys said, if you're short on green and have alittle time on you're hands you can run that cylinder to BDC and pull the head- just feel the cylinder wall with you're fingers and check for gouges, be easier than dropping the whole motor and doing a complete disassemble. bear in mind that a crosshatch on the cylinder wall is common- you're looking for grooves or nicks.

Assuming you find grooves, boring is always an option. I'm not sure what th etolerances are like on these motors, but if the damage isn't TOO significant, you can complete the disassemble and have a machine shop over-bore your cylinders and put bigger pistons in- then your motor would work and would be + displacement to boot. just my .02.




I may not be the sharpest crayon in the box, but at least I'm a pretty color

A 10 overbore can be done on any J motor. If the damage can be fixed by that, I'd do it. Keep in mind you'll need new pistons for any overbore.

Heard from Karo that the 2.4's can be bored .120 over. Mine's .040