alright those are some of last year's time slips. At that time I was on @!#$ty Goodyear Conquest and 14' steelies which meant no traction at all even from a 2k launch.
Now I have some new 19 lbs 17'' wheels and nankang high performance street tires
So aside from the really high 60', I noticed that my trap speeds are pretty low. What tips do you have for me ? Don't say I suck at driving, that's not precise enough
1st
Reaction .402
60' 2.347
1/8 10.551
E.T. 16.408
MPH 85.967
2nd
Reaction .411
60' 2.525
1/8 10.695
E.T. 16.496
MPH 84.661
3rd
Reaction .498
60' 2.387
1/8 10.695
E.T. 16.470
MPH 84.636
try a different track if traction issues are that bad, seriously your 60' times really blow
that and you suck at driving
Learning how to drag race would help.
Also, put some better rubber on the 14's and ditch the 17's when you're going to the track. More rotational mass = less spin, less rotational mass = more spin = better take off with good rubber for traction. Suspension work helps a lot too.
I use only my 14's when I go to the track and I pulled 2.1 or 2.2 60's when the stock tires were in good condition. Yes, Goodyear Conquests. Keep up the good work though.
Yepper, ditch the biggies and get some decent rubber on the steelies. Get that right arm in shape for quick shifts and look at the damn tach so you know when to shift. Playing it by ear is only fine untill your racing someone else who has a louder motor, lol.
<img src=http://ourworld.cs.com/jwithspray/Jbeier_sig3.JPG>
Guys my 17'' wheels are only 19 lbs each Most aftermarket wheels I've seen weigh 25 lbs or more. I don't know what steelies weigh, but they can't be that lighter than 19 lbs. I don't think it slows the car down very much since my steelies were pretty heavy themselves.
Like I said, less rotational mass and non-low profile sticky tires work much better. Do you see professional drag racers using 17" wheels to race their cars? No, they use lightweight small diameter rims. Otherwise you're going to hurt your time with large rims because the more the rotational mass for the amount of power your pushing, the slower you will be. Less rotational mass allows more spin for the same amount of power. More spin with good rubber equates to faster launches.
There's a lot more mumbo jumbo, but I don't feel like laying out a physics lesson.
your = you're.
damn fingers.
I went 15.2's with 17" Enkei Shoguns and a 5 speed Ecotec.I know it can be done.Also with the smaller tires your mph will be lower.The 17's should put you around 86-87 mph in the quarter.
The benefit in smaller tires is they change your gear ratio.Smaller tire = higher multiplication of force's.Which in turn can mean lower e.t's.
My rule of thumb is 1/10th in the 1st 60 feet = 2/10th's at the big end.
I ain't callin u a gold digga,but you ain't messin wit a broke cracka
Trap speed doesn't matter if you can't use it.
I,m keeping what you said in mind, Sasuke, but the thing is I won't change my wheels and tires to go to the track, I am trying to improve my skills, not my car.
stop shifting like an old lady lol and stay off the limiter
see ya!
hooray for physics!! A larger diameter wheel definitely plays a part. It's all to do with momentum, centrifugal force, and that other jazz. To boil it down to an easy example.... go to your nearest Wal-Mart, and go to the bicycle section. Take one of the 28" bikes, and spin the tire on it. Easy, right? now go to the kiddy bikes and spin a tire on one of those... even easier, right? Okay, you aren't really going to lose much diameter, as long as you get some meatier tires for the steelies. Basically, it may weight slightly less or slightly more, not sure. The point is, the torque transfers much easier when it has a smaller diameter to work with. I'm not sure how to explain it, but it requires more force to set something light and far away in motion than something slightly heavier that's a lot closer. Hope that helps! Other than that, work on your shift points and technique.
i think its just more practice and yes smaller diameter wheels
my stock auto ecotec ran a 16.3
04 sunfire auto, mid 15's n/a, and still going
Ok here is what I see. First you have been giving the same tips over and over, and you are not listening. The wheels play a part. I would say your launch is a big part fo your problem, probably roasting the tires. Practice makes perfect. Go to the track more and practice, make tire pressure adjustments, try different things, and use what works the best.
FU Tuning
Do NOT make air pressure adjustments (i.e. lower your air pressure) on your low pros unless you want to screw your rims up. Just watching out for you, man. Geez, some of these folks really don't need to give others advice, btw...
Normally in a drag situation, it's best to have the rear higher than the front for stability issues. One thing I've done was have my fronts at 32psi with low pros, and 34 in the back. Also, try launching at 2500 rpms. Just gradually let the clutch out and give your car more and more gas as you're taking off. Don't slam the gas down because you'll bog. By doing this and with practice, I GUARANTEE that you'll get 2.2 60's or better.
Peace
Sasuke wrote:Do NOT make air pressure adjustments (i.e. lower your air pressure) on your low pros unless you want to screw your rims up. Just watching out for you, man. Geez, some of these folks really don't need to give others advice, btw...
Normally in a drag situation, it's best to have the rear higher than the front for stability issues. One thing I've done was have my fronts at 32psi with low pros, and 34 in the back. Also, try launching at 2500 rpms. Just gradually let the clutch out and give your car more and more gas as you're taking off. Don't slam the gas down because you'll bog. By doing this and with practice, I GUARANTEE that you'll get 2.2 60's or better.
Peace
Excuse me you need to watch what you say. YOu can lower tire pressure on any rim. I'm not some newbie on here. been here for years, and my car runs 14.8, so I guess I do not know what I'm talking about do I??? Please you are a joke.
FU Tuning
Yeah I'll probably try lowering the tire pressure but just a bit, because, as Sasuke said, I do not want to risk breaking my wheels.
Does anybody know why I have such a low trap speed ? I thought a good stock trap speed was 87 mph
Sorry Tom, don't know about those, but it was pretty hot outside and I don't think the elevation is that much.
The track is the napierville track in quebec.
DanteMustDie wrote:Yeah I'll probably try lowering the tire pressure but just a bit, because, as Sasuke said, I do not want to risk breaking my wheels.
Does anybody know why I have such a low trap speed ? I thought a good stock trap speed was 87 mph
Your not going to break your wheels. Truly your not. At least not from lowered tire pressure. As for trap speed, well track, car, driver can all cause a difference.
FU Tuning
Here's a little tid bit to entertain you folks :
"Chances are, if you’ve slammed your ride you probably also have big wheels and low-profile tires. Again, while this is good for road racing, it may be a step backwards from the stock wheel and tire size for straight-line competition. The reason is that low-profile tires have very stiff sidewalls. Without enough compliance to absorb and store the initial jolt when you launch, they tend to break loose and spin and/or hop instead of grabbing. This is why you’ll often see experienced racers switch their very expensive street wheels and tires on the drive axle for a pair of stock rims and tall rubber. Most purpose-built DOT approved drag racing tires are made in smaller wheel sizes for this reason as well. It’s possible to help a low-profile tire to flex more by "airing down", but this needs to be done with caution in small steps, because the air pressure is the only thing keeping the tire attached to the rim. NEVER reduce the tire pressure below the tire manufacturer’s lowest recommended pressure!"
Oh yeah, I have just a cone filter, 2.25" exhaust, and minor ignition upgrades and I run 9.7's and 9.8's in the 1/8 mile with just my stock tires. (Goodyear Conquests)
I'm sure I'll have my time down even more with better rubber. And John, I hope you learned something from that passage. I'm not saying you're stupid, you just need to see the whole picture. Good job on your times too. They kick ass, and I wonder what they would be if you used some 15's with some tall tires.
I wish there was a good 1/4 mile track near my area.
Ok, Im using your first timeslip cause it was the best one.
1st
Reaction .402
60' 2.347
1/8 10.551
E.T. 16.408
MPH 85.967
From the looks of this time slip you have terrible top end. My R/T is .347 which is still $hitty but is decent as well. Ive seen some guys in the .800 and even in the .900. You have an ok 60' time for your car. But your topend sucks balls. I would say for topend, try a 50 shot or aftermarket cams, valves and port and polish. Also lighter rims will only be good to lower your 1/4 by maybe .1 and maybe .2.
2004 Black Dodge SRT-4
13.9@102,,,,,,,60'- 2.1,,,, Boost controlled,,,,,biotch(Stage2 & Turboback,,,,,soon)
Sasuke wrote:Here's a little tid bit to entertain you folks :
"Chances are, if you’ve slammed your ride you probably also have big wheels and low-profile tires. Again, while this is good for road racing, it may be a step backwards from the stock wheel and tire size for straight-line competition. The reason is that low-profile tires have very stiff sidewalls. Without enough compliance to absorb and store the initial jolt when you launch, they tend to break loose and spin and/or hop instead of grabbing. This is why you’ll often see experienced racers switch their very expensive street wheels and tires on the drive axle for a pair of stock rims and tall rubber. Most purpose-built DOT approved drag racing tires are made in smaller wheel sizes for this reason as well. It’s possible to help a low-profile tire to flex more by "airing down", but this needs to be done with caution in small steps, because the air pressure is the only thing keeping the tire attached to the rim. NEVER reduce the tire pressure below the tire manufacturer’s lowest recommended pressure!"
Oh yeah, I have just a cone filter, 2.25" exhaust, and minor ignition upgrades and I run 9.7's and 9.8's in the 1/8 mile with just my stock tires. (Goodyear Conquests)
I'm sure I'll have my time down even more with better rubber. And John, I hope you learned something from that passage. I'm not saying you're stupid, you just need to see the whole picture. Good job on your times too. They kick ass, and I wonder what they would be if you used some 15's with some tall tires.
I wish there was a good 1/4 mile track near my area.
Old news. I know all of this. Actually I run on 14's wheels with drag radials my self. I have also ran on my 17's pulling 2.175 60ft. Most 17 inch wheels with a 215/45/17 sit a little shorter than a stock 16inch Z24 wheel. Which gives you a little gear, but also more rotating mass. I never said air your tires down to 15psi or anything, just air them down. Most 17's are at 35-40psi go down to 24-28 psi, and this will help.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote: Practice makes perfect. Go to the track more and practice, make tire pressure adjustments, try different things, and use what works the best.
thats what i did....first time ran a 17.1...tried different things, was running 17.5's....finally got it down pat and pulled a 16.8 this year (stock 2.2 OHV)
practice the launches and try differnt things is what you need to do, sometimes u might go alot slower, and other runs faster but it cant hurt to try
and yea wheels do make a difference, but not a huge run, my two best runs ever were on steelies but then again my rims are heavy as poop
