hello there, anyone have done this before ? is it safe to do it.
thing is that my abs system is not working as it should and my car is not braking well because of this. is not getting enough pressure to break
what do you guys recommend? to buy a new abs computer or will i be able to remove it without having any mayor problem
thanks
Get the distribution block from a non-abs cavy and convert all the lines around. Some people have dont it and they would be able to help more than that.
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You can actually use the distribution block/master cylinder that comes with the ABS setup, you just need to drill and tap two of the holes.
A lot of people will say it's unsafe, but personally I've gone through what you're describing, that ABS system is dangerous when it gets old and has put me through intersections on perfectly dry roads. If you can't drive a car without ABS you shouldn't be driving at all.
Technically if you aren't worried about removing the whole module you can just unplug the two plugs that go to the solenoids on the top of the ABS module. That will disable them and throw an ABS light, but if you pull the face off of the cluster and put a piece of tape over the light (its either that or de-solder the light) you'll never have a problem with them again. We haven't figured out a way to disable the light beyond that, so I'm just running with tape over the ABS light.
If you wanna get rid of the whole module (it's about 8 lbs and a nice weight savings, plus it opens up a lot of room under the hood) it's a bit more work.
You have to remove the module from the master cylinder, it's reasonably self explanatory but requires torx bits if you don't have them, here's a link to a thread with a tear down in it:
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=140838&t=140838&p=2
It looks like this without the module, minus the stainless lines and AN adapters
You have to drill and tap the lower holes like this, I believe they are M12x1.0
I adapted from M12x1.0 to -3AN and then back to the factory lines
And then installed
Connected into the hard lines down near the subframe
The other problem is if you remove the whole module you will throw a BRAKE light, which is different than the ABS light because the brake light is required to turn on and off during start up to pass inspection in some states. To trick the car into thinking you still have the whole module you just have to remove the plastic plug on the side of the module and solder all the leads to one motor armature from the ABS assembly.
Which reminds me, I was going to go back and make a nice box for the armature and plug so it wasn't just electrical tape, haha.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
An inquiring mind would like to know.. what do you get from soldering the leads to the armature? I see that they are all attached to different sections of windings but I don't get the theory.
Coiled wire behaves in a very unique way when power is applied to it. The PCM of the car can use this behavior to find out if the coils are still there, and therefore if the ABS module is there. All you are doing is tricking the PCM into thinking the whole module is there, which will turn off the brake light.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
I have been wondering, If I plug in the abs setup back into the harness in my 01 if the lights would go off. I know that the abs light would come on if I ever locked the brakes but it should in theory work.
To the OP you can also use a master from a mid 80's fwd oldsmobile. Just need to re-flare the lines with the proper fittings, its what I did.
I had the same problem with my van and almost got wrecked a couple times when towing my big boat. I just pulled the fuse and live with the light, and the brakes work just fine.
Poppop
Kenny "Poppop" Brown
I actually have a quetion, Transporter, you mentioned that you can not pass inspection in some states, mine being Ohio. I do not have ABS as a manufacturer option on my 05, but I am putting a new reflashed ECU that was from a car with ABS.. Do you know what will happen? There is no ABS light on the cluster, cause ABS was not installed, and there is no ABS althogether, so idk if i can pass my echeck..
I'm not sure of the e-check were you are, but in Lake county...the next county over...it would pass fine, as long as the light isn't on. Hell my buddies blazer passed after we removed the ABS light bulb in the dash.
A ABS light has nothing to do with passing e-check unless the guy who is doing it is being a douche.
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hello there, im getting ready to remove my abs system and converting my drums into rotors.
my question is will i need an adjustable proportioning valve to reduce the pressure that goes to the rear rotors ? or not ?
im asking because i was talking with some people over here and they told me that because the pressure is to high it might block the wheels once i swap to calipers... is this true or not ?
thanks
and what about my question?
im wondering because on the pictures listed on this treat i did not see nothing like that, just the new lines connected directly to the existing ones
ps. that master cylinder was made for and came out of a car with rear disc brakes
So scott, basically you are saying that i dont need anything to avoid the rear calipers lock on me when i brake hard ? Nothing to reduce that presure that will go to the rear calipers once i change them?
Thankd
I think you could measure the resistance of the armature and use a resistor, but im just thinking out loud here.
- Your not-so-local, untrained, uncertified, backyard mechanic. But my @!#$ runs
Oedwards wrote:I think you could measure the resistance of the armature and use a resistor, but im just thinking out loud here.
I literally explained exactly why you cant like 5 posts above... and solved the problem.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
polloz24 wrote:So scott, basically you are saying that i dont need anything to avoid the rear calipers lock on me when i brake hard ? Nothing to reduce that presure that will go to the rear calipers once i change them?
Thankd
avoid rear caliper lock? if you slam your brakes and have no abs your wheels are going to lock...front wheels first. Thats what abs is FOR.
if you dont want your wheels to lock KEEP your abs. If you know how to pump brakes and restrain from slamming your damn brake pedal feel free to swap masters.
