Well, let me describe my car first. I have a WAI, the Quad4 throttle body, 1.6 rockers, Crane Pushrods, Full 2 1\4 exhaust with Pacesetter Headers, and a aftermarket fuel pressure regulator set to 50psi.
I have the standard version of HPT, and I am looking for ways to tune my car better. I need some hints, and tips, on getting more power at a higher RPM. I seemed to found a great mixture for the low to mid range, but with a stock cam I cant seem to get the car to make any more than normal power above 4500-5000 RPM.
I have advanced the timing only slightly (like 1 degree) because I have no other means of detecting spark knock other than the knock sensor. I didnt want to over due it. I richend the fuel mixture up at higher RPMs, set my commanded PE AF ration at around 12.6, but changed the multipliers at high RPM to allow more fuel in. PE mode delay RPM is set to 2300rpm, and the TPS vs RPM vs PE is set in high numbers so that you dont accidentally go into PE mode while crusing.
So What should I do? Lean it out a lil, retard the timing, advance the timing, changed the VE table numbers? Heck, any suggestions would be great. Sorry about the long post, and thanks for any help recieved.
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Do you have a wideband O2 sensor?
2004 Cavalier coupe, 5 speed, White
GO
Hahn Stage 2, Eagle rods, Wiseco 8.9, SS Valves, Dual valve springs, valve job, Ti seats and retainers
spec stage 3, Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel, Short Shifter
Slotted and dimpled rotors, EBC green stuff
SHOW
VIS EVO CF hood, KOBE KAM 5 17", Nexxen N3000, Ebay Black tails and filler, 5% tint
Gold line springs, Tokiko D-spec struts
ELECTRONICS
Kenwood in-dash DVD and Navigation, single Kicker CompVR
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2974835
why did you richen up the fuel trims? was the cars fuel trim tables trying to add more fuel? (you would see a +x number in the fuel trim table)
generally, you want to get the fuel trims as lean as possible without causing pre-det. if your car has a -X number in the fuel trims, you are able to remove some parts of fuel in those cells. getting the car as close to 0 as possible is the goal of the fuel trims. this makes it more efficient as it is not having to remove excess fuel that is being commended.
dont try to get it right on 0, it probably wont happen and can be dangerous. if you remove too much you could cause problems, but like i said 0 is the goal, so -1 to -3 is pretty damn good.
its not much of a tip, but its a start. modify the tables slowly. also, if your running a higher octane (such as 91 octane) you can increase your timing quite a bit. generally, you can copy the high octane VE table right into the low octane VE table. if your not running a higher octane, then dont do that, just add some slowly till you start to see a touch of knock retard, then take that extra 1 or 2 degrees away that started the knock until all the KR is gone.
1997 RedR - ZedR
No, no I dont. I should of bought the more expensive version of HPT... I dont remember if its in my profile or not, but I have a 1998 Cavalier w\ 2200 and 3 speed w\ OD.
The transmission is almost all hydrauliclly controlled so there is little i can do to it.
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yeah you really do need the more expensive version of HPT. It is really hard to tune if you cant datalog with a wideband.
2004 Cavalier coupe, 5 speed, White
GO
Hahn Stage 2, Eagle rods, Wiseco 8.9, SS Valves, Dual valve springs, valve job, Ti seats and retainers
spec stage 3, Fidanza 7.5lb flywheel, Short Shifter
Slotted and dimpled rotors, EBC green stuff
SHOW
VIS EVO CF hood, KOBE KAM 5 17", Nexxen N3000, Ebay Black tails and filler, 5% tint
Gold line springs, Tokiko D-spec struts
ELECTRONICS
Kenwood in-dash DVD and Navigation, single Kicker CompVR
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2974835
Ok, so.. based on which fuel trim? Short Term or Long Term? I assume short term. And also, I assume that when it says -2 it is taking fuel away, correct? I could try to get it closer to -1 because i beleive its much more then that.
Someone told me once to not run 91 octane in the car, as it will only worsen performance. Of course, i guess we can change aspects of it with HPT. If i remember correctly, higher octane burns slower, so you would ignite it (spark it) earlier to use it all. Its so confusing, so should I try and advance it a little in the higher ranges to help get more power up there? It seems its very touchy. .4 of a degree will cause a wave of spark knock as high as 2-5 degrees. But without the .4'th added, it has no spark knock.
I am running 89 octane, and the car reverts to the high octane table as far as i can tell. Would i have better luck with 91 octane? It seems right now i have the most throttle response and mid range power that I have ever had, but it doesnt cut it when I get into higher rpm ranges. You get past 4500-5000 rpm in first, you notice it start slowing, but once it hits second at around 3500-4000 it picks back up. Its weird. There is no other sources activally changing spark after the ECT reaches appropriate levels.
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