well I finnally figured out the collant sensor ordeal (it only took for trys (im still sealing it up)) any who I said @!#$ it and wired up the injecotors and 02 sensor. I turned the key and vuawal she turned over and everything.
I do how ever have a few problems. for starters Im idoling really ruff and it will just die every so often. also im having tourblegeeting any sort of tune. for some reason its just not taken affect. I havent really exasperated all optoins, so Im going to go out side and work on it some more.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
ok so I have the a few of the bugs figured out Ive got the idel down but as soon as more air starts to get in the hit like a 19-1 and the engine just dies out. I feel like im not getting enough fuel to the motor but no matter what I set the injecotrs to it just leans out.
i need help PLEASE
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
im in my car right now trying to figure out waht the hell is going on its really obvious that my car is starrving of fuel I can seem to figure out why though. I know its not the pump because if I rev the engine it gives me what I need. I cant think Im missing a constant or something but that cant be Ive been threw it a hundred times.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
make sure your getting 12v's to your fuel pump, i had trouble with that, and only one injector driver working(2 injectors firing but the other 2 weren't)
is it decently warm out near you?
Im letting the factory ecu contol the the pump ( that shouldnt be a problem right?) Im almost positive the ms is not holding the injecotrs open long enough. Im ideling at 100's across the board. threw the first two colums. it is idlieng though.
heres a few q's I have for you (and anyone else that can help)
1. If I tell the MS to go over 100, will it? I could of sworn I rember somewhere it wont (im still trying to look)
2. what else would cause the ms for keeping the injectors open to little? I just dont think I should be idling at 100's
thanks man youve always been there
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
you mean 100% VE??
yeah it will go over 100% ve and will richen it up alot...hell for some reason mine still is over 100% in alot of the higher rpms and boost
yeah I just got in and Im running like10's threw 12's I littery just threw in numbers that I like and thought would work. Im running rich as @!#$ but what ever the car is pulling harder now then when I was at stoich with out the MS im so siked for tommorw. im puting the car to 14.7 and starting on my turbo.........ahhhhhhhhh
btw you are the man.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
so you're just entering random numbers into your VE map? oh boy............
have you tried actually using the Megatweak function yet? where you program what a/f ratio you want, run a log, and let it compute what the VE for each particular load/rpm should be?
sometimes, the way people go about doing things on here, really really scares me.....
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Scarab (Jersey Jay 1.8T) wrote:so you're just entering random numbers into your VE map? oh boy............
have you tried actually using the Megatweak function yet? where you program what a/f ratio you want, run a log, and let it compute what the VE for each particular load/rpm should be?
sometimes, the way people go about doing things on here, really really scares me.....
oh comon you have got to be kidding me. you really dont give me enough credit. Ill try to reiterate. I have a great idel and a decent first couple of rpms and map. so what I did was just climbed in numbers across the board slowly uping my fuel. im showing 10's across the board (like I said) now all I have to do is fine tune it.
I still love you mr bug
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
i don't give anyone credit until i see results. its nothing personal, thats just the way I am. Its also not my fault if you can't type straight enough for me to tell what you're saying half the time
. Anyway, when you say things like "i'm hitting 19-1 a/f ratio and the engine is dying out" i kinda half to question if you have any clue what you're doing, if you're actually managing to hit the "Lean Run Limit" of gasoline.... This shows that your base map wasn't set anywhere near what it should have been before you started driving it... Running that lean, even on a stock motor, is still pretty damn dangerous with 10:1 compression and you're pretty lucky you didn't break something... you'll be even luckier if you didn't do damage that will rear its ugly head later on.
Maybe its just that you're not so great at communicating your thoughts in type-form, so i'll give you the benefit of the doubt, but sometimes, really, i have to give the ole' WTF to posts of yours like this... Maybe you should consider letting a professional do your tuning once you go turbo.... because accidentally hitting 19:1 then isn't going to be a repeatable error.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
ok ill give you the fact that my typing isnt up to par, but I thought I made a few points clear. I think your still missing what im saying here. for starters the 19's only showed at idel. when I started the car for the first time, the car would konk out and die. as soon as I started riching up the mixture everything started working great.
I now have full control. im bringing my laptop on most of my trips and just taking drives down traficless roads. im slowly leaning out my curve to a 14, 15.5 max. I still need to work out some collant issuse due to the fact that the ms sensor is showing colder signals the my stock one. but all in all things are going great.
either way I think saying that my typing is @!#$ty is a bit of a lame excuse. I belive its quite appranet that I would not just pick random numbers for my tables, and drive the car at 19-1. I know you said that you dont "give credit" but I sort of feel offended that you would actually assume something so ridiculos.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
you still haven't answered any of my questions about whether or not you used the stimulator to setup a base map, of if you've tried running megatweak yet. frankly, i can barely understand half of your posts, so i'm not apologizing for thinking it TOTALLY typical of people on this forum to jump into something they have no idea what they're doing. Frankly, if you had set up your base map properly to begin with you shouldn't have been anywhere near 19-1.
Quote:
ok so I have the a few of the bugs figured out Ive got the idel down but as soon as more air starts to get in the hit like a 19-1 and the engine just dies out.
beyond that, this quote sure as hell made it sound like 19:1 was not at idle, but when applying throttle..
you can get offended all you want, i didn't care when NJHK cried about me "doubting his abilities" (note, his car STILL doesn't run right), and frankly, i'm not going to care that you're mad I thought you were capable of doing something that stupid, because a lot of people on here are capable of it, and a lot have actually done dumber things.
I'm not trying to start a fight, but seriously, stop being so sensitive. I was TRYING to tell you that I may have been misconstruing what you were trying to say, because frankly, your grammar blows. If you STILL get offended after I admit I may be misunderstanding, that's your problem. Learn how to write in english, then i won't misunderstand anymore
. I just don't see why if you had used all the nifty little features megasquirt has, that you're having so many problems. Entering your desired a/f ratio into the table in megatweak, and then running logs for a day, should have you at an almost perfect fuel tune for an all motor car within a day.
I'm not here to have a touchy-feely emotional love-fest group therapy session. I'm here to discuss tuning and performance topics with other people, and if it sounds like someone's doing something wrong, or dumb, i'm gonna try and say something to keep them from seriously breaking something. I'm sorry if that sounds mean to you but its done with the best of intentions.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Fair enough. I think most of my frustration stems from the fact that outside of jbody, when it comes to cars, I might as wheel be driving a spaceship. I really have no one to discuss or learn from. My local car club wanted to know If I was boosted yet (this is after staring at my intake and exhaust manifold) everything Ive done I tought my self. I have no mentor no proffesor, just books and the net. Ive come along way from my first bolt being screwed into my car. I still smile everytime I turn my key and the engine fires. call me crazy but installing the MS with little to know problems felt huge to me and I guess I just get a little sensitive when the slightest feeling that mabye all my hard work was in vein. and at worst no respected by those I do.
this is the last youll hear of my emotions on this subject
ok so back to topic. I can understand why you thought the 19-1 was during an accelaration, but it was merely during a hard rev at idel. (which if you think about it, means I had know chance of making it out of my driveway anyhow.)
as for my base maps from a start and my overall tune. there are two disticnt reasons why I did what I did.
for starters, I set out a plan with the rep at DIY. We went over my setup from start to finsh. everything I did was right out of the book. I used the table generater to produce a map. I told the MS that my engine was a bit more "potent" then it really was, thus giving me a richer tune.
now if you have ever seen the kind of tune that comes with the generater its a joke. linear climbs across the board. in no way could it be a decent curve. but thats ok I was looking for my idel thats all. I started the engine. and the constants where way low. this is what got me, becuase I was almost certain that there was no way I could be to lean. I was so sure because I had my warmup enrichments setup very generously. and they would be giving plenty of fuel on a cold start. I was even ignoring my wideband at the time.
regardless, I still showed lean. as soon as I covered every optoi,n I doubleed back and richened up my start up table. the second the 120 hit the first box I was clear. after that it was a matter of just being careful.
sorry this is so long but on a final note I wasnt aware that the stim could be used for anything more then "waking" up your ms. I was instructed that it would let me hook up a 12V battery and test all my fuctions, IAT, CLT, 02,etc....
how is it used for basmaps.
as for mstweak. I will be honest with you, I never looked into it much. I had glaced over a page or two but never really indulged. please, enlighten me.
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
actually i apologize... i think i'm wrong about the stim thing.... most of the limited knowledge i have of megasquirt is off of Rich (Exterminator)'s car, and its been a while since i've worked on it with him. As for megatweak, i'm sure the MS forums are gonna do a better job of explaining how to use it than I could.
Something seems off to me though if you have to go over 100% VE when you aren't even boosted yet... Because in reality, outside of an F1 motor, even getting to 100% all motor is impossible... I know on Rich's car, its not above 100% on the VE map until boost hits...
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
yeah it took me forever to figure it out, and I didnt want to hang a lattern over it until I figured it out. (I was afraid youd grill me) im sure you know the problem with the ecos two coil packs. it only shows half rpms on the ms. so what I had to do was set the MS to 2 cyls in order for it to work. what this is doing ( i belive, no real way for me to check now till I fix it) is basiclly making me double my numbers in order to keep the same AFR.
also I just droped in my 42 lbs. I ran the same map on start up, because I wanted to make sure they worked. on top of that my curiosty got the best of me, and I wanted to see how the car reacts to the 42 lbs untued. it was an intresting experience and I can now accurately tell those who ask exactly what will happen when 42 lbs are added with out correction......needless to say that got old and im back to 14's give or take 1-2. tommorw is the new plugs and intercooler bracket fabing. im having a busy week
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
Jcavi wrote:im sure you know the problem with the ecos two coil packs. it only shows half rpms on the ms. so what I had to do was set the MS to 2 cyls in order for it to work.
I had the same issue for a while. I recently tried and can confirm that the wasted spark diode circuit from haltech will solve this. Basically a diode is one way so you tap both signal wires and the circuit combines the signal. I still had to run the signal throught a tach converter to swith it to a voltage signal for the MS. I'll have to look to see if I still have the schematics around. Couldn't have cost more the $5 to make.
so wait you brought this thread back to share this............ we need more people like you on this web site. if you would be so kind as to pm me the parts and locations. thanks man this is great, im so @!#$ tired of my car thinking its a motorcycle. with monster injectors
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boobs now with Riboflabin"
Thanks
I figured us megasquirters have to help each other out. I wont tell you what i ended up doing for my coolant sensor though :S
The part number is 1N4004. I'm not really an electronics guy so I just walked into the electronics place and said ... I need a 4004 diode and they knew what I wanted. Make sure you get the right ones, I did have one guy tell me 4007 would work ... it wont. You can also get them from digikey.com (just do a search for 1n4004) but you'll pay $0.06 each with a minimium order of 10, and then like $6 for shipping. Not a big deal but It sucks to spend 10x the cost of the item on shipping. I'll see if I still have the digikey part number at home. You might even be able to get them from radio shack but I'm not totally sure on that.
I'm going from memory here so I might get it backwards. To make the curcuit you attach the negitive ends (the ends with the strips) of the diodes together forming a Y shape. attache wires to the three ends and hook it up. The two seperate wires are then tapped onto your orange and white signal wires. The other wire (the one coming out the bottom of the Y) goes to your tach adapter (make sure it's not a tach driver). You can buy a little project box if you want to get facy but i just used some heat shrink to cover it all up and keep it water tight.
The first time I made the curcuit (with the right diodes) I got it backwards, so I had to unsolder everything and flip the diodes around. Hopefully I have remembered it right and not given you the directions backwards. You can test the curcuit by just twisting the wires together and using electrical tape.
I have a few spare diodes at home, if you have problems I might be able to do a howto .... although it will take me a bit becasue I have two cars missing engines right now
for reference here is a picture I found of the diodes. Notice the stripped end, thats the negative side.
