My crank position sensor is on crack. I went for a drive, and logged it with HPTuners. Can someone look at it and see why my crank sensor is on crack.
I have replaced the CrankPS with a know good used one. Out of my other 99 Z24. I have installed two brand new ones, and the car still does the same thing. Sometimes I get a PO335 error from the PCM. I can email the file to anyone that is willing to look at it. I'm really at my whits end here. I have checked all the wiring that even comes close to the sensor. Grounds, back and forth to PCM. Everything checks out fine. I mean everything cluster and all.
This is the last thing keeping me from passing my emissions check.
Hell I'll paypal anyone that helps me fix the problem money. I really have no clue where to go from here.
The dealer said I need a new PCM, engine bay harness, cluster, and ignition switch. Clearly they have no clue either.
Car idles like a @!#$ champ. Perfect.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, April 05, 2012 7:40 PM
- Attachments
- 04-05-12 Tach crazyness.zip (124k)
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Dwhen you say you checked the wiring...did you 'Ohm out' the wires? Shake the harness while doing to see if there is an internal issue. Even if the inslation looks good, you can always have potential for issues.
Some websites I checked say that bad batt. Voltage can also cause issues.
I can't see the log, but is this erratic reading constant after starting the vehicle? Or is it random?
Pictures for those of us without HPT?
-MD- Enforcer wrote:Crank Posistion Sensor is on crank.
There's your problem
I have no signiture
Yes I used my ohm meter. No change at all tuging or shaking any wires or plugs.
Ill be driving at x rpm and then my tachometer will shoot to 5500rpm ish . The then go right back to where it was. It is almost always 5500 Ish, but sometimes will peg the tachometer.right afterwards the front O2 sensor goes crazy and the injectors pour on the fuel...then back off and act normal. My tps will stay constant. I can get a pic of the log maybe later
I can unplug my cam position sensor and nothing happenes at all. No code no nothing. Doesn't run better or worse.
This is all on the stock tune. I even unhooked my wideband and other sensors, and disconnected any wiring that wasn't factory.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Man and I thought you figured out all your problems....sorry to hear that man.
Could it be a mechanical issue since you have looked at all the electrial areas in concern? Like Vaccum?
IDK im just throwing ideas out there. One weird thing about my car is sometimes when I start it the gauges dont work....so I have to turn it off then back on to get the gauges to move.
GMR has got nothing on this
Honestly im loosing motovation.....
No material what I do my car seems to fight me every step of the way.
If I can not get it to pass echeck by the end of April I'm not sure what my options will be.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Timing?
GMR has got nothing on this
I had something similar to this on one of my Z24's. It turned out to have 7 corroded wires at the pcm connector. Lets face it, its in a @!#$ty location where any and all road salt, rain and snow can get to it. Unplug both pcm connectionsand check for continuity on the crank sensor wires. Even if its good, I would remove all the loom and physically check all the wires for a good foot or 2 coming from the connectors. I know thats a used harness you put in there, so you never know if it came from a car that was driven year round, possibly ith busted fender liners that could easily cause corrosion.
i HATE TO AGREE WITH DARREN, BUT I'M GOING TO HAVE TO AGREE WITH DARREN....
It came off a running car along with the pcm. I actually redid the entire harness with new loom and electrical tape while. I had it out. I'll check it again when I get time.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Are you saying it is doing this before and after the new pcm & harness?
I think this issue is new. He had a different issue before.
I also agree with checking the ecu connections for corrosion.
Do you have another ecu you can put in the car?
FU Tuning
This is a new issue, and I have two other 99 pcms I can try.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
-MD- Enforcer wrote: actually redid the entire harness with new loom and electrical tape
I'm hoping you soldered? How long ago was this?
If you checked continuity and it was fine, I would move onto a Megger test. Unpin the wire at the connector and do a Megger Test before ripping out that harness. If it passes a Megger, then you know 100% that the problem isn't in the harness, and it will save you grief of ripping it out.
I only had to solder two wires, and they were ABS wires.
Megger test?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Load test the wires with a headlight bulb. Disconnect the sensor and the pcm and power a headlight bulb through the sensor wires. It should light up bright. If its dim you have wire issues.
Thanks Tom.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I thought the PCM's used a 5volt reference???? Pretty much any headlight bulb is going to be dim if you hook it up to the crank position sensor wires.
Currently #4 in Ecotec Forced Induction horsepower ratings. 505.8 WHP 414WTQ!!!
Currently 3rd quickest Ecotec on the .org - 10.949 @ 131.50 MPH!!!
Your correct. But if you disconnect the ckp and pcm and power a headlight bulb through those wire with 12v it will tell you if the wires are good. I've ran into wires that ohm out at low ohms but were still intact enough to not carry a clean signal or power a headlight bulb. Headlight bulbs draw enough amps to load test the wires. I made one at work with pins to probe connectors.
-MD- Enforcer wrote:
Megger test?
Wrench Monkey wrote:I've ran into wires that ohm out at low ohms but were still intact enough to not carry a clean signal or power a headlight bulb. Headlight bulbs draw enough amps to load test the wires.
^ ^ ^ ^
Same thing as a megger. Put it under load and test. "Ohming out" is a very low current/voltage and isn't particularily useful in all cases.
Any Load or Megger test will work.
The headlight one is a wicked idea, and never thought of it . Always just used a portable megger. But the headlight would work great for people who've never used a megger before.
So tried to do the case relearn with hptuners. It didn't change anything at all. It seems to run better below 2000 RPM but still didn't seem to work.
Trying to get a hold of my buddy with his snap on scanner now.
Probably get time for a megger test sometime this week...I hope.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Well, it is a legitimate code scanning your log.
Sometimes a CMP can set this Dtc but in your case we can see the CKP sensor going off the chart and resyncing.
Many times I have seen water intrusion near Pcm connectors that will send just enough current to cause interference on other ckts.
Have you tried the other PCM yet?
This will be one of three issues;
Bad PCM
Bad ICM
or Electrical Interference between CKP and ICM or between ICM and PCM
The CKP has 2 wires going to ICM (Yellow on term F of ICM and Purple on term J)
The ICM has 2 wires to the PCM (Purple/white Term G to C1 Term 8 of PCM & Red/black Term H to PCM C2 Term 31)
If you have spare Pcms and ICM swap them out to check, if they do not fix it make sure no corrosion at pcm or water in harness.
You may have to redo harness and shield the wires.
http://www.weatherallsautomotive.com http://www.planethax.com/j-body
Weatheralls Auto wrote:Well, it is a legitimate code scanning your log.
Sometimes a CMP can set this Dtc but in your case we can see the CKP sensor going off the chart and resyncing.
Many times I have seen water intrusion near Pcm connectors that will send just enough current to cause interference on other ckts.
Have you tried the other PCM yet?
This will be one of three issues;
Bad PCM
Bad ICM
or Electrical Interference between CKP and ICM or between ICM and PCM
The CKP has 2 wires going to ICM (Yellow on term F of ICM and Purple on term J)
The ICM has 2 wires to the PCM (Purple/white Term G to C1 Term 8 of PCM & Red/black Term H to PCM C2 Term 31)
If you have spare Pcms and ICM swap them out to check, if they do not fix it make sure no corrosion at pcm or water in harness.
You may have to redo harness and shield the wires.
I have two spare PCMs, and two spare ICMs. I'll swap them out this weekend or maybe Friday and see what happens.
I HIGHLY doubt there is any water. The only water the car sees is when I wash it, and it is garaged all the time.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, April 18, 2012 4:41 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
