my half shafts are "grinding" and i need to replace them the question is what should i replace them with?
i am planning on doing (in the future) full engine rebuild (cam crank ...) and entire suspension (coil over, roll bars...)
my thought of power after build will be some where around 250hp ~ on the torque
the passenger half shaft needs to be replaced sooner than later the driver could wait but since i have to fill the tranny back up after replacment i might as well replace them both for $100
should i replace the cv axels with stock or a stage 2 cv half shaft
replace with stock......getting stronger axles only moves the weak link of the powertrain into the transmission.
which would you rather buy???
I dont think that power warrants special axles though.
my thought was replacing with stock there about $500 cheaper.
With the power i am wanting to throw to them i was a little hesitant (knowing the stockers were only ment to hold a little more than stock hp.
John Benham wrote:replace with stock......getting stronger axles only moves the weak link of the powertrain into the transmission.
hold on where is the weak point in the transmission?
what kind of hp would warrent stage 2 or stage 3 axels?
any replacement for the spiders?
if you have an izusu trans, I believe you can get a dif out of a Geo something or other that has forged spider gears, but if you have a getrag.....nope.
As far as HP warranting stage 2 or 3 axles....i wouldnt say they are necessary at all.....at least with my line of thinking. I can change an axle, for free under warranty if it breaks in about 15 minutes. A trans costs lots more, and is much more labor intensive to change, especially if tearing it down to get the LSD out of it.....
Say i had a set of forged spider gears made (about $900-$1000) now where is all that stress going?
back on to the cv axel since i don't have a "dip stick" how do i know how much tranny oil to add back in after i swap?+
It would not be worth the cost to get the forged spider gears.
You might be looking at more than that to have them made, and with the cost of a replacement trans being a couple hundred......I dont see the cost efficiency in doing it.
If you were serious about getting something beefier, contact a company such as qualife (sp?) about getting a custom limited slip diff made.
But to answer the question, I would probably say the weak link would be moved to the splines in either the axle or the diff.
You should not loose much if any fluid when you change the axle. If the fluid in there is old, just pull the drain plug, and fill it back to specs. Depedning on the trans.....getrags take just under 2 qts. from empty.
i have never changed the trans oil in the car and iam am just shy of 130k (about 50 miles short)
Knowing how well the previous owner treated the car and maintained it would be a good thing to change the trans oil
anything specific i should use or will any generic atf fluid work?
