EMERGENCY HELP! PLEASE!!! :

My jacked slipped from under my car (thank god i wasn't under it) and it cut through 2 wire harnesses. Only 4 wires got cut.

One was the starter, which i spliced. I'm not sure what the other one was but I spliced it anyway. It looked like some sort of sensor connector on one side, just below my A/C compressor. It had silver wire into a connector and I spliced it with copper. I thought all was well.....WRONG!!!

Problem:
Whenever I start my car now, it automatically revs to 5000 rpm, without me touching the gas pedal. I've only let it run for 5 sec, but it's almost like the throttle is stuck open (pedal does nothing).

Possible cause:
Is it possible that the harness that got cut was my throttle sensor? and because i used the incorrect wire to splice, it is recieving irregualr voltage (or resistance) and causing the car to redline itself? Is it possible to repair sensor harnesses? It's a red and white wire.

Any advice would be great, at this point I am walking to work and it sucks!

PLEASE people! I know someone has some info. I DID search , but cannot find any definate answers!

Lets go Jbody pros!!!!

heres an idea you cut 4 wires spice them back get 4 but splices and reconect them match them up by colour if theres say 2 greens well get tracing. next time the jack should go in the proper jacking location GM doesn't put wires where you jack is to be???



JBO since July 30, 2001

FYI, it fell when i was lowering the vechicle. I've used the same jacking location every time i've jacked it up. Was a freak a accident.

Thnks for no help at all man. come on, what would make my car rev to 5000rpm when i start it up? which sensor could be attached to the wire i cut? Please help here, my car is off the road for too long now. I'm even thinking of buying a winter beater!

I think found out wat the problem was.

When my jack slipped it pinched a wire harness that contained the wires for my Idle air control valve. One of the wires had copper showing through the coating. My conclusion is that the IAC valve is getting an incorrect voltage or resistance reading because of the damaged wire. It is the "LT GRN/BLK coil B low control". This is what was making my car idle at 5000rpm.

There was another grey wire that had mild damage to it as well, not sure what it is yet, but I will splice it anyway.

Hopefully after I splice the IAC wire, everything will be back to normal.....if not i'm screwed!

Well, I tried to splice the wire that was torn, and i ended up cutting too much off. so i Tried to temp connect the wire to see if that would fix the problem but it didn't....

my car still idles at 5000rmp. I even tried to start it up without the IAC plugged in and the same, idles at 5000rpm..

I really don't know where to go from here...... Any suggestions?

What is the best way to splice wire harness wires? solder? connectors (crimp style)

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP! What wire would cause my car to idle so high?

Why was the car on the jack? what were you working on?

I have had IAC problems and it didnt cause a 5k idle, it was only at like 3k.

The brake booster being disconnected only causes it to idle at 3k(ish).

The "best" way to splice wires is to solder, but a "butt splice" will work fine so long as you tape it up and its a solid connection.

Do you have an OBD scanner? do you have a CEL? you may have a pending code, which will tell you what the problem is.

I am not familiar with where the wires run on an eco harness. Can you take any pics of what happened exactly?


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

If all else fails...and your car is a 2200 SFI..I have a wiring harness for sale lol, just let me know


"Hondas are like tampons, every pussy has one!!!"

Ok lets look at this. Your accelerator does nothing and the engine revs up to 5000 rpm. Have you looked at your throttle cable and butterfly valve? I am not trying to be a dick but the engine HAS to get air in order for it to run up that high. The difference between 5,000 and the usual idle of 8 to 900 is too massive for it to be a wire or even a vacuum issue. Your engine would bog and die. Where were you jacking the car up? That may help us and did it hit anything other than the wires?


I accidentally the SHIFT LIGHT!!!!!!!!!!



The proper way of using the word seen. It is not I seen it that would be I saw it. He has seen the car is the right way to use the word. English class is Cool. By the way thats my sig

Thanks for all the input guys!

It was jacked uder the sub cross member i believe (if thats what its called). The long piece of black steel that goes from one wheel to another.

WHen the car fell it also cracked one of the mounting points for my a/c compressor, lowest bolt. it sent half of the bolt right through the housing of the compressor, but the compressor didn't look like it moved at all. Belt tension is still good.

I did check my throttle cable and it looks fine as well. but i will spend more time on that today, if you say that an electrical problem couldn't cause 5000rpm idle.

so besides throttle, what else can cause a 5000rpm idle?

Oh ya, and i was replacing a power steering line. the solid steel one on the rack. The shorter of the two.

Im not set on it not being a computer/wiring issue. Just in my experience it hasnt caused that high of an idle.

Are you 100% sure its 5000rpm? (ie have you started it for more than a second, and more than 1 time)

have you tried starting it with the sensors disconnected?




"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Matt: i'm 100% sure its 5000rpm

I let it rev for about 5 sec and it was steady at 5000rpm. multiple times

I unplugged the IAC and the other sensor on the Throttle body (IAT i'm guessing) and still it idles at 5000rpm. I'm going to check for engine codes now.

I am praying that it is an electrical issue, because it should just be a matter of splicing. which is cheap!

What else would cause a car to idle at 5000 rpm? Where should i be looking for damage? I"m goin to start tomrrow by taking off the intake manifold, but not sure where to go from there...

So it turns out i have a P0122 code: Throttle / pedal sensor / switch "A" circuit low.

I'm hoping this is good news?!

That is your TPS sensor. Mine was just giving me trouble for a while.

theyre like $50 to replace. I would try unplugging it and starting the car, see how it idles then. I unplugged mine and it idled fine (before i replaced it)

with my bad tps installed the car started throwing a vss code, and a map and IAC code. it was making the car crazy. i replaced the tps, cleared all the codes and they have not come back in maybe 300-400 miles. Before i would get the codes about every 10 miles or something, i would erase them like 4-5 times a day.






"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

THanks Matt,

I'll try that tomorrow, it's too late at night now.... my car sounds super loud in my garage at 5000rpm!

First off, shoulda had it jacked up on the pinch-weld like it's supposed to be, but o well, too late.
Second off, you're making this a bigger deal than it is. Open up the wiring harness by removing the tape, wrap, etc so you can see all the wires. Check them all to see any damage. Look all around, better to find them now. If they're broke, get yourself some wire, same size, and solder a little piece in (not too short, give yourself some to work with), make sure to heat shrink. If it's just kinda cut, make a judgment call; if you think it was just the insulation that was torn, wrap it in some electrical tape, if not, splice in a piece of wire. When you're all done, wrap the harness back up like it was from the factory.

That code could mean that your tps is bad but it can also mean that something is just bad in the wiring.

-Seth

wizkiddrummer wrote:First off, shoulda had it jacked up on the pinch-weld like it's supposed to be, but o well, too late.
Second off, you're making this a bigger deal than it is. Open up the wiring harness by removing the tape, wrap, etc so you can see all the wires. Check them all to see any damage. Look all around, better to find them now. If they're broke, get yourself some wire, same size, and solder a little piece in (not too short, give yourself some to work with), make sure to heat shrink. If it's just kinda cut, make a judgment call; if you think it was just the insulation that was torn, wrap it in some electrical tape, if not, splice in a piece of wire. When you're all done, wrap the harness back up like it was from the factory.

That code could mean that your tps is bad but it can also mean that something is just bad in the wiring.

-Seth

my jack stands were at the pinch welds, it fell when i was lowering it.

I inspected all the wiring and soldered 2 wires that had a little copper showing through the casing, jus gotta plug everything back in and hope it idles.

and ya i know i made this a bigger deal than it is. its the first time in my life i can't drive my car so its really pissing me off.

thanks for all the help though guys!

GREAT NEWS! no more 5000rpm idle. and no engine code!

only problem now is that it seems like my car is hunting for a smooth idle. it idles at about 1500 (which is high) but it constantly revs up to almost 2 then back down to just under 1000 after i blip the throttle in neutral.

Also, when i'm in 2nd gear, the car feels like it pulls itself then almost bogs between under 1500 and 2000. Kinda like if you keep tapping the gas pedal in 2nd when the car is pulling itself on a flat road. real jerky.

any ideas???

Matt Linke wrote:
with my bad tps installed the car started throwing a vss code, and a map and IAC code. it was making the car crazy. i replaced the tps, cleared all the codes and they have not come back in maybe 300-400 miles. Before i would get the codes about every 10 miles or something, i would erase them like 4-5 times a day.

Got some DTC's:

First i had a DTC P0507 Idle Speed High. I cleared it, ran the car for a minute (which was still idling at 1750rpm) then i got a VSS code as well. An IAC code showed up too but seemed to clear itself....sounds like i'm buying a new TPS.

Matt Linke wrote:
The brake booster being disconnected only causes it to idle at 3k(ish).

When my car finally holds a steady idle (about 1750rpm) and i pump my brakes, the revs start to fluctuate again for about 5 secs. than it holds it at 1750rpm again.

does that mean a vaccum leak?

AND on my first startup, after the rpms settled on a constant value my header started to glow red. What a trip out!
With all that, i was still able to drive to my friend's house 5 mins away. Is it safe to drive to work on Monday? it's also a 5 mins drive. without exceding speeds of 60km/h, pure local roads.

guess i asked too many questions..... i'll still post up when i fix the problem.

MUST be a vaccum leak says GM tech. some where in the brake booster