I'm gonna attempt to get as much detail down in order.


Got off work one morning.
Drove for about 8-10 miles of the 14 mile trip home and all of a sudden my car started to bog down and shudder like it was running out of gas(was right below 1/4 tank).
Stopped to put air in tire, and when I started car again it was idling rough(jumping between 900-1100rpms) and when you would give it gas it would give a deep moan and stumble/die finally got it to drive.. about 500ft to the side of the road where it wouldn't move at all, you could rev it in neutral and it would get up to about 2500rpms before it would drop to 900, try to idle and die.

You could do this again and again and again.

Towed it home.
Figured it was fuel pump(had 230k on pump) so we replaced it, along with fuel filter.
Took forever to actually get it to start, but still wouldn't run(same issue as after I stopped for air above).

So I got another fuel pump from a buddy in Florida, dropped it in.
Drove about 5 miles down the road and low and behold, same issues slowly creeped on, meaning at times it would start to bog down, then suddenly get up and move again.
But the time I was coming up the drive way it was as bad as it was the day coming home from work.

From that point on it was all kinds of weird.
One day it would start up great, idle fine then after about 5 minutes stall and would take 3-4 tries to get it to start.

Decided to try unplugging MAP sensor when it wouldn't start, it ran like crap but started up everytime it was disconnected.
So I had a friend come over, check the CEL.
Saw a low voltage on MAP and TPS.
Replaced MAP and TPS with ones I had on hand, still was doing same thing.
Pulled MAP off of a junked 2.4(car ran before it was wrecked).
Would start fine, idle fine but if you got the rpms above 2000rpms for any reason it would hesitate, bog down and stall.

Friend came back over with a full function scanner(works at chevy dealership) so we could watch the sensor data live.
MAP was reading fine.
TPS would read one moment, then read nothing the next.
So I replaced it with a brand new TPS.

Car started great, ran amazing, I could rev it to red line and back down, drove up and down drive way.
I thought I had it finally fixed.
So took it for a trip on the road.
got about a mile down the road, at 55mph it started losing power fast, within a few moments I was down to less then 25mph and it was trying to stall so I stopped on side of road.
Every time I started it it wouldn't idle right, revved it a few times and it finally idled decent enough that I could get it moving in 1st gear, shifted to 2nd and it bogged down, jerked and shuddered all the way home wouldn't go above about 15mph.
Noticed the whole time this was happening the THEFT light was on.
Here is a video:

If link wont work(facebook) try the direct link;
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150685502882322

I had the battery and alternator checked, both are fine.
I'm starting to really think ECU?

Well, first question, is the cel on anymore?
What is the deal with the theft issue?

The CEL is always on from the EGR delete, haven't been able to get friend over after replacing the TPS with new one to check it again.

The THEFT light is my biggest WTF issue right now, it only came on that one time while driving, but I remember it popping on a time or two before when it would idle rough and die out.
As soon as you turn off the key and turn it over again the theft light is gone.

Scan it when it comes on...need to know what that module is seeing wrong

I will try to get my friend back over so we can check out the data again while its running.

how about injectors? or coil packs?

Is there a way to check injectors?

I've got a new coilpack(to me) off of a friends wrecked car(ran great when I pulled it.

Check injectors by removing rail mount bolts(believe10 mm). Set the fuel rail on engine turn key to on position,will tell you if at least working.check the wiring to injectors for rubbing or damaged wires. By sounds of it shouldn't be ignition system, but hard to check while me not being at car. I'm also shocked you have a light without egr. I have been running my car without one and no light, hell I don't even have downstream o2 sensor lol.also with your theft light check the ignition switch and the wires going to it( just precaution).

"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

AJ 13mm nuts.






PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO

I was thinking yesterday, my key/ignition has been getting stuck here lately a few times.
Like at times I have to hit the key to get the ignition to turn from the "off" position, its almost impossible to get it into the "ACC" position.

Doesn't the key/ignition switch control the THEFT system as well as the cluster?
Could it possibly be shorting out or something?