When your car gets up there in milage, you do you use?

A neighbor has has an older 3rd gen (95-96), and he just cracked 100k..
he wants to know what would be the best choice....his car does a lot of city driving,
and his oil gets dirty pretty quick...

My high milage cav still runs on the same oil...so my advice kinda sucks...

Any suggestions for this guy??

rebuild his eng..lol

no seriously...Ii have used pretty much everything...and i have found that the Lucas additive is good for an old engine that ticks...a lot. I had an old Oldsmobile Calais with a 3.0 in it. it had about 100k miles on it and knocked like a ba$tard. Added some Lucas at the next oil change and it ran like almost a new eng.

on the other hand i have used conventional oil in a car for 500k kms....it is still running round somewhere...

the only thing that i can really tell him for sure is not to flush his engine. This just strips all the bearings and seals of the lubricating film it has built up over the years. I know ppl that have done this and have lost their eng a few months later...

if anything I would use some quaker state HM. this stuff is very good. and if its ticking bad than throw in a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer on the next oil change.

he should have another few miles on it yet...i have heard of these engs going for 200k miles

If its a 2.2 and it ticks bad he sould replace the timing chain and tensioner.

No, no ticking...at least not yet.....

So if the engine has issues, use Lucas...if its in pretty decent shape, maybe use
high milage?


It's funny that you mention QS high milage...my cav has been running on regulat Q
since the 1st oil change, like about 120k or so....

I wonder if I switched to quaker state high milage if it would keep my oil cleaner
longer, and protect it as I retrofit a/c back into it....

they say to use high milage when you hit the 120k km mark...75k miles??...but i have gone to 500kkm on regular QS. My cuz swears by high milage stuff...so i dont know what to realy tell you...cept..if it aint broke dont fix it...unless your gonna mod it that is...lol

I run mobil 1 in my new cavi...and i find it extreamly good. expensive but worth it...i dont think you would have an issue if you changed over to synt. now my buddie did at 170k km.
He doesn't have any probs.

Never use Lucal Oil Addatives. Here educate yourself:

Additives Test

Jay

I know lucas is not good but if it can squeeze a few more miles out ouf an otherwise screwed engine...that what ever works right. I would never use it in an eng that runs fine.

Found some research on lucas additives and some others. Mainly the lucas additives cause the oil to foam excessively(lots of air stird into oil).
Some of the other contained teflon like products. Now as we all know teflon repells liquids and makes the surface slippy in some causes. Now what is oil..a liquid..what does teflon do..it repells liquids. What do you think is going to happen when this is added to a motor??
I'd go with some kind of synthetic oil for high mileage cars, I ran mobile 1 synthetic 10w30 on my old 2nd gen Z24 and it smoothed the idle compared to other normal oils, even noticed a savings on gas, a little bit of extra power..not a great difference but a noticable one.

when i used lucas. my oil didn't look like that. WHAT THE HELL. By the way, if the car is burning oil, or consuming, they an additive will work. I personally prefer Bardahl though.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Imports better know they drive on Domestic roads....

Big Kev wrote:when i used lucas. my oil didn't look like that. WHAT THE HELL. By the way, if the car is burning oil, or consuming, they an additive will work. I personally prefer Bardahl though.

An additive for Burning Oil just prolongs the problem, it doesn't solve the problem.
As for the Lucas and air being mixed in, check it out for your self. This isn't even the info I had read in the past. This is some other dude that did a similar test, but still came up with the same results. It's up to you..You can believe whats advertised on TV and the Lucas site or you can read up on tests that were performed and not paid by Lucas
Lucas Oil Test ..Click Here

Hmmm...sounds like Lucas woudn't be a great idea....

I starting to think high milage oil might be the best for him....I'm not sure he wants
to put te money out for mobil 1..

Though all of this has got me thinking whether I should put some high milage
in mine...I think a test change might be in order...

I don't think that it should hurt it if I decide to change back...

for those of you who use the high milage oils...how have the benefits been?

My goal is just to keep her protected, running smooth, and keep that oil as clean as
possible between changes..

I'm already thinking about upping the changes a bit sooner....since this car does
about 50/50 when it comes to city and highway driving......

Ive been changing my oil every 10,000 miles with Mobil 1. My father has too. We have never had an oil consumption problem or engine wear problem. We had most of out Mobil 1 cars into the 200k's and sold them running.

been using mobil 1 since i bought the car. it's now at 137k miles. i change the only every 4500 miles. the oil still looks pretty good when i change it, too.




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SO EVERYTHING!

OK i too use Mobil 1 in my cavi and i change it just like conventional oil...every 5000 km...3k miles? sometimes sooner.

You guys should stop over to the BITOG forum, they have proof of many synthetic oils outlasting conventional oils through UOA's, or oil sample tests. Its no gimmick, todays mobil 1 can go "15k" like the new forumla advertises at mobil1.com.

If you head over to the BITOG forum you will also learn how a stock air box and paper filter greatly extends the life of your engine oil.

Mobil one can go much farther then 5k a change, dont waste your money.

Like I said earlier, my family has been changing the Mobil 1 every 10k, and one of these cars was the 3.1 in a 92 lumina, it has about 255k on it now and we dont even look at the oil until 10k passes, and it never looses a drop.

Over at bitog they also can show you how much engine wear it left in the oil through silicon and such, and you can see that in extended drains, no damage is done with synthetics like Amsoil and Mobil 1. Royal Purple and Red Line however are sh*t, and last no longer then a conventional oil. Only true PAO synthetics stand the test of time and abuse, and there are only 2, amsoil and Mobil 1. Mobil 1 claims 15k oil change intervals, and Amsoil claims up to 35k intervals, which even I think is a bit much, but thats what they claim! Anyway, the proof is on BITOG.

^ thats very interesting...
15k miles...6000km makes me nervous...lol
course...my car is still under warranty and I am bound to do what the dealer says....until i mod the @!#$ outta the engine... I will visit BITOG I have to see this my self thanks for the info

J-kub wrote:Never use Lucal Oil Addatives. Here educate yourself:

Additives Test

Jay

That is one of the reason why I never used Lucas!





New Picture comming this summer.

Megaman wrote:

J-kub wrote:Never use Lucal Oil Addatives. Here educate yourself:

Additives Test

Jay

That is one of the reason why I never used Lucas!

Ouch!

Rob Smith wrote:Ive been changing my oil every 10,000 miles with Mobil 1. My father has too. We have never had an oil consumption problem or engine wear problem. We had most of out Mobil 1 cars into the 200k's and sold them running.

I think if I tried to put Mobil 1 in the wagon now...oil would shoot out everywhere...

I think the motor is too old and used (130k) for that....high milage maybe....

I always use a small amount of lucas in cars that have lifter tick w/ success. I'm gonna still keep using it if nesscary. How much Lucas were they dumping in during that test?

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002816. I use a mix of heavy truck oil (15W-40) and 10W-30 in my 2002 Cavalier. I would use a 50/50 mix in the older engine to start. Am currently running 1 quart truck oil and 1 quart 10W-30 in the 2002. Seems to do real well as the magnetic drain plug only has a very light "dusting" of fine residue on it. It's barely even detectable.


God bless America.

Made a typo. Meant to say 1 qt. truck oil and top off with 10W-30.


God bless America.

Remember that the only metal in your engine that is magnetic is the steel. So all the babbitt on your bearings and the brass underneath the babbitt, and any other type of different metal like aluminum and so forth would not show up on the magnet. Not to say that your method doesn't work...as it probably does work as well or better than most additives...I'm just saying that the magnet is not really a good indication of wear. Only real test is to have your oil sent out for analysis...but thats really not practical for most of us.

The link was for an analysis using truck oil and 10W-30 mixed 50/50 but it wasn't in a Cavalier engine. I will send mine off in six months as I just changed the oil last week and post the results. I'll let it go the whole winter. Personally the only reason I am doing the truck oil mix is because I get the truck oil for free but it seems to work well according to other people's UOAs..


God bless America.