ok well ive been searching thru the posts for the ld9 cam swap/msd install/ and crank pulley install...and heres the parts list that i came up with (plz let me kno your opinion or if i need or dont need something...
one last check on this project for the items required (grabbed from the faq):
- MSD DIS II
- MSD GM 2 Tower Coil Pack= Part# 8224
- MSD GM Dual Tower Interface Module= Part# 8870 (need 2 of them) What exactly is this?
- wires
- plugs
anything else i might take into consideration or need? plz the info will be greatly appreciated....pics and or vids are also greatly appreciated..any problems i might run into or general problems, and any other parts i need?
Cam swap, ok i stole this from weebel in a post, but is this pretty straight forward?
remove idi cover
Jack up your car,
remove the pass side front wheel, and splash guard,
Support engine with jack on lower motor mount,
remove mounts,
pull pistin #1 spark plug,
make sure piston number one is at TDC and timing marks are lined up
drain your oil.
remove serp belt and crank pully,
remove timing chain cover,
double check timing and lock your cam gears unsing an IDI cover bolt,
remove your power steering pump,
remove timing chain,
loosen your fuel rail,
remove cam covers,
remove cam gears,
pull out cams,
and then put the new cams in and put everything back together..
waht all parts gaskets/lube, etc..and anything that i should try to avoid?
and for the crank pulley, its an obx pulley and i read in some posts before that it is good to, but not necessary to replace the oil seal...anyways i purchased it..anything to worry abotu here?thanks alot guys, its greatly appreciated...
MSD makes two modules. One is the older model the 6211 and new programmable unit is the 6212. You can find wiring diagrams in pdf files from the MSD site.
Your only issues are going to be where to mount the DIS mounting plates and how to connect up the 3 prong trigger connector off of your ICM to the MSD unit. But again, the MSD site should have information on this but it'll be up to you to decide on how to use the trigger inputs and from what source.
Upon removing your timing chain, you'll need to be familiar with the tensioner and also the timing chain guides. If you've got some miles on them, replace them with new units and the timing chain too.
There's a few more things you'll need like replacing the three bolts that hold the engine mount bracket that is on the engine with new units, and maybe investing in some ARP head studs instead of using the same units. Either way, buy new head bolts because they're made to be stretched when they're torqued down and the ones you've pulled out are already stretched and need replacing with new.
Make sure that the cams are held in time or place with dowels that won't let the cam gears move a millimeter because you're more prone to get the timing right the first time because of the lack of slop in the chain from inferior dowls.
There's more but really don't have time to give you all the details of doing this right.
Try doing some research on doing the 'secret cams' swap as there are posts that give you specific parts and lubes that you'll need to do this right the first time.
Good luck with it and hope you're successful with it.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
ok a few things... I have done these all a few times now....
firstly... the dowels and "locking the timing" is pointless if you are going to swap cams. Everyone talks about how important it is to do... but it is a joke cuz it does nothing in this case.
when you "lock the cams" you are basically freezing the cam gears in a fixed position so they cant rotate... but guess what... you are taking those gears off. so what is the point of locking them in place? just pull the suckers off and dont worry about "locking the timing", that is more for maintenece... like replacing just a chain, or tensioner, or guide... if your doing major work like this locking the cams is pointless.
You dont need to look down the sparkplug hole to find TDC of piston 1... when you pull the crank pulley off, you will see there is a mark on the crank that lines up with a mark on the block indictaing TDC of cyl 1.
All you need to do is make sure that when you put it all back together that the crank marks line up, and the cams are in the "locked" position. that will set you to stock timing. at that point you put your timing chain on, and all the guides and release the tensioner. then you can remove your bolts or dowels to unlock the timing.
If you arent pulling the head, which it doent sound like you are... and you arent running anything super powerful that puts undue stress on your head (turbo at 15psi), then i see no reason to spend the money or time replacing your head bolts. at this time.
things i would suggest replacing while you are in there, depending on milage of course... Water pump... (this is drivien by the timing chain... so your already 80% there... so might as well do this now) and timing chain tensioner and guides.... (after 95k miles my timing chain was streched noticably larger than my new chain.) many places sell the entire timing kit... all the above mentioned parts, plus the gears themself... you dont need to replace the gears, they last forever. But if you have extra gears, you can donate them to me for all my useful tips here (i am looking for some to use in a timing modification project)
as far as lube... just lather your cams up real good with some type of assebly lube... i think i used ARP assembly lube. Everyone will tell you to replace your lifters when you do this.... but if it is a used cam, then used lifters should be fine, as long as you cant see any visible wear on the lifters or the cam. if your getting NEW cams, then might be worth it to get new lifters.
moving along...
if you are doing the coil swap... from the sound of the mods in your profile, the DIS-2 box is probably overkill. you can save yourself some major cash by skipping it. The new style DIS-2 (6212) costs $750. and is honestly WAY too much ignition for a stock LD9. I would save your money for things your car can actually take advantage of.
But if you insisted on doing the DIS-2 box... get the older 6211. It still isnt really needed on a stock engine, but much cheaper than the new 6212 (i actually have one for sale i just pulled off my cavy)
as far as the coil swap itself.... depends what you hope to do with the car... if you just like to spend money, then sure, go all out... but if you just want the most bang for your buck... then there is alot you can leave off. I suggest for a stock engine looking for a little "budget power" just yank the IDI cover off, remove all the guts from underneath it. go to the junk yard and find a coil pack from a 2.2L (make sure you get the 2 coils and the ignition module they mount to.) then just plug your ignition harness into that module as opposed to the IDI module... get some plug wires, and bang your done... for like $40
for a lil more power, get the MSD coils, and replace the stock ones on the 2.2l module.
if you feel a need to run a DIS-2 box.. then hollow out the module, and use it in place of the MSD interface modules. takes a little more time, but will save you $80. those interface modules are nothing more than a hunk of plastic to mount the coil on, with some wires.
If going full MSD, with DIS 2 and all... the install is really easy... you just use the 3 wires that go from the IDI cover ignition box to the coils... cut those at the coils... splice them into the MSD input. (2 are triggers, one is "switched 12v") then wire the MSD coil outputs to the new coils, and then hook the MSD box to your battery... and your done.
obx pulley, please ensure it is balanced and is the same dimensions as the stock pulley. the snout, center bore, and snout distance.
Some come out ok, but others are not concentric. Also I would advise to replace the seal...since the OBX pulley is cheap aluminum and WILL develop a groove at the seal of the timing cover.
There is a reason it is so cheap...
I would get the unorthodox pulley, since the OBX is a cheap knock off.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
the only reason that i said about the msd ignition and coil packs+interface is because i found it used and i can get all of it for aobut 250 not including wires...i purchased the seal, and ive had the pulley for about a year now(just not installed)...has there been alot of incidents where the obx pulley was disfunctional?thanks a lot for your help guys...and is there a pdf file or something in case i decide to buy the ignition...or a walkthru for the cams or pulley...all info helps..thanks guys
and just for the record my car has around 78k miles
OBX products either fit right or they don't.
for example
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
wow that sucks, well atleast i will already have the timing chain cover pulled off anyway for the cams, so it wont be a waste of time 2 see if it fits...
were can i get a set or msc coils, i cannot locate them
Fireboy153
Brady Fire Co. - Station 150
Long Live The Sunflower! (yea its not so "cool")
were can i get a set or msc coils, i cannot locate them.
Fireboy153
Brady Fire Co. - Station 150
Long Live The Sunflower! (yea its not so "cool")
prob summit or ebay...search msd #8224, i believe thats they number
just wondering installing cams on a cavalier engine...how long would it take (for a mechanic) thanks.
Use the stock 2.4 icm. Its easy!!
jp falcone wrote:just wondering installing cams on a cavalier engine...how long would it take (for a mechanic) thanks.
2 Hours going slow (LD9).
-MD- LD9 wrote:obx pulley, please ensure it is balanced and is the same dimensions as the stock pulley. the snout, center bore, and snout distance.
Some come out ok, but others are not concentric. Also I would advise to replace the seal...since the OBX pulley is cheap aluminum and WILL develop a groove at the seal of the timing cover.
There is a reason it is so cheap...
I would get the unorthodox pulley, since the OBX is a cheap knock off.
I haven't seen an unorthodox pulley for sale in a while. It is not even on UR's webpage anymore
Jason
99 Z24 Supercharged
157hp/171tq - NA
190hp/170tq @ 6psi
LD9 for Life
hav u or anyone installed the cam onto ther cavs and does it make a noticeable sound? like a racing cam or no? just curious because i need to make a choice soon. thanks.
why do you want your car to sound fast? i would rather go fast
i dont? thats why im asking if it will sound like a racing cam or if its not noticable?
