Hey,
Maybe wrong Forum but my performance has been compromised after the car was tuned!
I've spoken to a few on here about this but still lost! I got my car tuned with HPT after I installed stage 3 cams! For the first few days, the car was incredible, all of a sudden it just didn't have the same bite after 5000 RPM! I noticed after tuning how the car would really pull and even sound different! So I've been told, no way for ECU to lose the TUNE, only if re-flashed! I have an 02 in which there was a factory recall on the idle. ECU had to be reflashed or whatever GM did to it so it wouldn't just stall out! It happened to me quite a few times, then never again after I saw the dealer. I bring this point up because during the tune when initial adjustments were made, it started to stall out. I adjusted my TB idle thingie and that seemed to work. So with it set at a new point, the car was tuned!
Bottom Line: A few days after tuning, lost the bite after 5000 RPM. Car started to stall out constantly at idle and now lots of "POP" when I'm driving. Sometimes, with a little reving at idle, it will stay steady (not really since I really do cam out -
. BUT it won't stall out then. I have "played" with the TB idle and sometimes I feel like I fixed it and sometimes I am back to re-adjusting it. I BELIEVE, too much air is being let in even at idle now and the AFR is off??? I have adjusted it to idle at 850 RPM as it was tuned at that point. I think I might need to Spark Plugs? NGX IX XTREME.- 5000 miles on em since installed last summer, but I REV my car a crap load. Weekend car, so when i do drive it, i basically run it hard. Perhaps I need to look into changing them? Would that help with better AFR, less "POP" and more bite? Thanks!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
If I remember, you were posting about running some fancy-ass plugs... pull and check them, on a NA motor usually the ac delcos work the best from my experience...regarding your tuning problems.. is the person that's tuning your car a professional? Do YOU know what you're doing when your playing with the TB idle? Any Codes? What's the problem here, backfiring? stalling? loss of power? all of the above? Lol, you're all over the place with your post.
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
so you have stage 3 cams and stock valve spings?
LE61T PTE6262 Powered
Lol. Thanks fastfire!
Yes the tuning guy is a professional. Lots of stalling at IDLE, I always smell gas when that happens. I have become an expert at braking and keeping the accelerator goin while the clutch is in so I don't stall out! Feel like I've lost power after 5000 RPM. I could literally feel the acceleration after 5000 RPM, like V-TEC so to speak! I hear lots of "pop" when I drive, not evident when it was first tuned! Again, 3-5 days of driving the car after tuning, all the above started to happen! I am running stock valve springs, just got the car to rev limit at 7000 RPM, besides I think I have my max TQ and HP at 6400! I will check my plugs. I am running NGK IX XTREME Irridiums. The plugs worked awesome when I got em. Never tired AC DELCO and I was talking about getting the Pulsestars, yes (the fancy plugs)! Still considering it. I have ordered the 2.4 INTAKE MANIFOLD and with the LSJ injectors will get the car re-tuned. I hear DENSO's are great but with such a thin TIP, cars then consistently see redline seem to break off the tip on the plug!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
"Ac Delco platinums" are what come in the car stock from GM.... double check everything and if you rule it all out then go back to tuning guy as it sounds like you still have some tuning issues to work out....I think the stage 3's require stiffer valve springs and possibly other valvetrain upgrades
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
You aren't really doing anything but adjusting the idle screw. Idle is controlled by the IAC.
FU Tuning
dont know much about cams and stuff but i do know you should upgrade the valvetrain when you get aggressive cams like that since they open and close the valves quicker so i would think that more strain would be put on the valve springs and you would eventually have valve float with stock valve springs on our cars..
maybe im wrong, just thinking out loud here
12.33 @ 111.67 mph [Oct 2009]
Dyno'd on 08/02/09 - Mustang Dyno:
327.6 WHP 333.6 WTQ [10.1 AFR]
It might be worth you time to pull the valve cover to take a peak for bound/broken springs if you are running the stock ones. I don't see any vavlvetrain upgrades in your profile, but that doesn't mean you don't have them. Do you have the lift specs on the cams? There have been different experiences shared on this engine, but most would agree that the stock valvesprings are no good for lift higher than stock and revs higher than 7k rpm.
It does sound more like a hardware issue because it was running fine and then all of a sudden it wasn't...
I should have got the valvetrain! I have my rev limiter stop at 7 K so I can avoid valve float. With the 2.4 intake Mani, I'll go to 7100 max if I pull power all the way up there. I recently put on a chrome valve cover and did not notice any bent or broke valve springs. So when you say hardware issue, can you give me more examples please? To sum it up, the car is fast, and I love it, BUT a little bit of bite has gone specially after 5 K! I think my stock valvetrain will be okay for now, so what else could it be. I will check my plugs tonight. I'm hoping they are bad and that's the fix!
My cam specs are I believe:
Intake 264 º
Exhaust 258 º
0.426 LIFT
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
.426 lift on stock valve springs.. doesn't matter what your RPM is, you're hurting stuff.
park the car and upgrade your valve springs, or you're risking more damage to other components (valves and pistons).
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:I have my rev limiter stop at 7 K so I can avoid valve float.
Your valves are still floating. Your going from sub .300 lift to well over .400 lift cams. At ANY RPM(even idle) it takes longer for the valve to close, because you are opening it up farther. Stronger spring WILL close the valves faster and keep them shut.
Wake up, get off your ass, and replace the valve springs. Or just sell your car to someone with a brain big enough to read the cards that came with your cams. My blower cams say right on the cam card "requires upgraded valve springs" and stage 3s are more aggressive than the blower grind.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
I'm just guessing but if you're running a cat, and with all the stalling, strong gas smell, and floating exhaust valves, that the cat will be bad or plugged very soon. Just saying I'd look into that once you have the rest fixed up.
Tinkles wrote:
Wake up, get off your ass, and replace the valve springs. Or just sell your car to someone with a brain big enough to read the cards that came with your cams.
LMAO, a bit harsh... but funny!
Don't buy from MANTAPART!!
There is no easy ways to get HP, no magic box or gizmo... And if you get more hp, there's no way to make your car still behave and sound like a stock one. More hp usually makes your car louder, more vibrations and harder to drive...but still people hope or think maby there's some magic way to have it all, comfort, stock sound and drive.
Just a little harsh, but its cool! Bought the cams used and really didn't know to upgrade my valve springs. Was told it was fine! But anyways, are you saying that upgraded valve springs will keep me from running slightly rich and stalling out? To upgrade my springs and retainers is b*** so I hear. And probably another 2-300 in labor. I have no clue how to do this and yeah too lazy. I'll definitely look into upgrading the springs as soon as I can
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
02ECOTECIMPORTKILLER wrote:Just a little harsh, but its cool! Bought the cams used and really didn't know to upgrade my valve springs. Was told it was fine! But anyways, are you saying that upgraded valve springs will keep me from running slightly rich and stalling out? To upgrade my springs and retainers is b*** so I hear. And probably another 2-300 in labor. I have no clue how to do this and yeah too lazy. I'll definitely look into upgrading the springs as soon as I can
yeah it will keep it from stalling out.. and not blowing up/ self destructing..
And as for replacing them i believe you have to remove the head in order to do that..
Damn that is some work! Anyone know besides FERREA ? that makes valvetrain components? I think Bates Engineering? If I could get a decent titanium and gold valve spring set or something similar for 3-400$ I would do it. I just bought the DENSO Iridiums yesterday. Always wanted to try em. Will arrive this week. I wonder if it will improve my condition for now.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
I am going to be running SuperTech 94lb springs once i get the money around.
Generally you do not have to remove the head to replace valve springs. Not 100% sure on the Ecotec. You just need a spark plug air chuck adapter thingy to use compressed air to keep the valve seated.
Tinkles
2003 Cavalier 1SV
Bagged and Blown
Quick question.. just for reference could you take video (with audio) of your idling and driving around normally? I know its damaged but just as a request could you do that?
Yeah I can do that. Will try to do it in the next day or two. I love the idle when its stable because I really cam out. Addition of the upper engine mount made it even better. Will definitely post it up!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Awesome! That would be great man.
Gettin the pics today. Haven't forgotten! However, I did just install the DENSO Iridiums! Man, what a difference in TOP END! I don't backfire nearly as much, and don't stall out that much either, but both are still happening. I redlined the car lots of times (up to 6800) and noticed a nice increase in acceleration after 5 K! I'm impressed with the plugs. Tuning issues are still present/valve springs not upgraded will continue to cause me trouble I'm sure. I plan to get re-tuned in the upcoming weeks once the 2.4 Mani is installed. This whole using the stock valvetrain thing has got me a bit worried. Looking into supertech for upragde.
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
Oh yeah, the TR55IX plugs were great, but after only 5 K they were completely shot! Redness around the tip and prong were very evident. If I don't get re-tuned anytime soon, I will probably by new plugs before I get tuned again. Or make sure the ones I have still are good! My AFR is slightly off I think too, that probably didn't help the life of the plug
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
well your probably running bad if your having valve float or binding from the springs.. so its probably frying your spark plugs..
