New valve train in the head with 3 angle valve job port and polish.
Cometic mls 030 head gasket. Arp main studs and arp head studs. Topfeed conversion custom made intake manifold with custom billett fuel rail with 44lb injectors.
The block has been machined 020 over and been honed. Oil passages have been bored 010 bigger.
The motor has eagle h beam rods which are forged rods.
Motor also has wiseco forged 020 over pistons built for boost or n/a
crankshaft has been knifeedged and micropolished and a full balance of the rotating assembly has been done
brand new timing set by clevite has been installed
clevite tm77 cam rod and main bearings have been installed
block is shot peened and dipped

Ok guys sellin a ln2 with all that brand new block etc. never been started... which is my concern, in your the orgs. opinon would it be a good idea to buy this even though its never been started? (im just concerned bout seals settin right etc.)


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129

Ive never been a fan of buying someone else's "built" motor,always seemed weird to me....never know how the guy assembled it. He could have just bought parts and shoved them in not knowing any better. But then again it could be a Hendrix Motorsports LN2............lol.....Chance u gotta take

well thats my issue, lol i kinda wanna take it all apart just to make sure its all good and so iknow everything and stuff, i guess ill take my chance after i know, is this a good set up for boost?


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129

first off...ive never heard of shot peening the block...normally people shot peen rods to relieve stress....and as far as pistons go telling me they are good for boost/na means nothing....compression ratio would be helpful to know

i just copy and pasted his craigslist im waitin for a txt back on compression ratio


http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3364129

New valvetrain - doesnt specifiy if it's stock or equivelant, or upgraded parts
Pistons - I'd want to find out what the comp ratio is

Find out how long the engine has sat, how was it assembled, who assembled it, etc. Make sure assembly lube was used where necesary and that it was torqued properly.

If I got that engine from someone I didnt know off say craigslist, I'd probably pull the valvetrain, check all the head bolts, then pull the oil pan and check the rod cap & crank bolts and make sure everything was torqued to spec. Unless it had receipt of a respectable engine shop having done the assembly. That's easy enough to check with the engine out of the car, it would be worth the piece of mind. It would also be worth it to see the pistons/rods to confirm they are what they are claimed to be, etc.

Try to get any/all receipts for the work done.

Edit:
Just my advice.... Anyone could claim the world in an engine, sell it, once you get a chance to open it up and check it out, you could find it's nothing but stock... then they have dissapeared off the face of the planet.. SPECIFICALLY on craigslist where that could be easily done. Just check all your bases if you are really interested in it.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, August 11, 2010 7:29 AM

i would have him give you a built sheet with part numbers and a guarantee if not found in same condition (take it apart when you get home)
I would pick it up at his baby mommas house just so you know where to go if it craps the bed

I know of quite a few instances where someone bought an engine/car complete with receipts and everything, later to find out he had been screwed by the shop originally.
Do not buy an engine without first taking off the oil pan. If it has aftermarket pistons/rods and a knife-edged crank, you could get a hell of a deal
I'd still take it apart and re-torque though...




fortune cookie say: better a delay than a disaster