HELP, my 89 Sunbird GT Turbo can't make up it's mind. Sometimes it's running fine then suddenly losses power like the injectors were turned off. Starts right back up but runs terribly like on two cylinders, check engine comes on but eventually begins to run fine again (about 5 minuts). Check engine lite normally stays on but sometimes resets itself and if stays on you don't know want RPM it will idle at (1000-3200, varies). It's been doing this for a year. Nobody is willing to drive it with this on/off problem. Lately (last 3 weeks), it will only start on one cylinder then shut off after about 3 seconds or only cranks but will not start. Has spark, fuel, air and timing belt is on the marks. Three days ago in the morning, it would not start but 2 hours later decided to run fine. Now it seems that cylinder 4 is not working properly and I beleive it is the injector not opening or not opening long enough. Has anyone had this on/off running problem and what finally fixed it or was diagnosed as the problem? I love this car (FUN) and you don't see the turbo models in this area. Hate to get rid of it but this problem must be fixed or it's gone. Have 4 other cars/truck to choose from. Thanks for the inputs/ideas.
Oh my where to start.1st being u have all three points of interest covered I will suggest some things.One you may want to change ur fuel filter! if it is way old.2nd if the fuel pressure has not been checkd YOU need to varify the psi which should be 26-32 psi on each injector being I assume u have 4 being a turbo 2.0? Other things to kick the cel may be the egr stuck open or closed pull it off and clean it for carbon buildup this kills a engine hot/cold if u have a vac line going to it disconnect it and see if it makes any differ.If ur egr has the vac line and improves and after cleaning it does no change u need to repl it.This part varies model yrs with or with out vac lines or electrical hook up to the part.I would say maybe a faulty plug,or coil going but,rule that out right now,but new plugs if not old want hurt and wires.It could be a number of things like the IAC or the tps going bad .I am way tired but wanted to post some reasonable suggestions and think the simple things are what kill car ,fuel filter for one.Unless ur fuel pump is taking a dump and setting the code umm not likely try doing a simple check with a obd 1 chk it's prolly something way simply than it may be.Hope this helps you out.Ok
Ron - Thanks for inputs. Fuel pressure bounces quickly between 28-32 psi, vacuum is steady at 20in. EGR has vacuum line and works properly. Changed MAP due to code 33, no effect. All spark items are about 2 years old with less than 20k mi. Fuel pump and filter changed at the same time as spark items. A couple of times while the car was messing up and running at high idle RPM (about 2000 rpm), I disconnected ALL sensors and had little effect on the running. Did notice TPS changed speed slightly and only for a moment. Had many codes from that testing. IAC is adjusted correctly and works by changing amount of air. Remove intake hose to throttle body and you can here the air hissing changing. I'm pretty much down to two items could be bad - TPS or ECM. ECM for a turbo is impossible to find around here and don't know if you can find a good one. Will change TPS next week when I have time. Weekend is full. Hoping for the best. Reading the many emails from past two years from people having idle/start/run problems, seems I have all in one shot making me beleive ECM is bad but change the easiest and cheapest item first - TPS.
Well guess WHAT? I have with about 2 minutes found a ecm for ur ride.I was not sure on ur eng code but put in 89 bird gt 2.0 sohc fi turbo and whalaa.I found this on htttp://www.advanceautoparts.com u just go to the site click shoponline then click on choose ur car and enter the info.Then in the far left side bar type in ecm and bam u have several choices of new or rebuilt ecm's.They range in price from 86.00 -104 roughly but do have the part and u prolly would have to order it and it may take a day or two to get it.Just a note auto zone and advance auto parts carry more parts for older js than anyone period ! I know this should bring a sigh of relief if u need the part and do not have to scour junk yards for it or ebay etc.I know this should bring a smile I hope.R
I have proven that the #4 injector is not working. For some reason fuel is not coming out of it. One bolt is being a pain to get at. Located under the intake manifold beneath #4 inj. I'll change the injector first then continue if more problems arise.
UPDATE;
Changed #4 Injector ($54) which solved the problem. Other three are noisy in comparison to new one. Will change them in the winter. Back to having driving fun again.
sweet! I thank goodness I only have one injector which cost 71.00 when I replaced it.
