i have an 04 cavalier and the i bought some rims and tires for it and they are sunk in from the body quite a bit in the rear so i am looking to get some spacers for them about 0.50'' in the rear.
Try your local tirediscounters store. They made me some in 1/4" Those kicked my rear wheels out nicely, flush with the body. I placed the spacers behind my rear rotors so you can't see them
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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2012 numbers - 4SPD
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So what you're saying is that you put the spacer behind the hub?
That would work out the same if not better since it wouldn't be an extra burden for the wheel studs etc.
Just curious as to how exactly you mean behind the rotor.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
Misnblu wrote:So what you're saying is that you put the spacer behind the hub?
That would work out the same if not better since it wouldn't be an extra burden for the wheel studs etc.
Just curious as to how exactly you mean behind the rotor.
They are behind the rotor, but in front of the dust shield of the neon swap. Sorry and my spacers are only 5/16's. Really thin.
Ill have to double check now, lol now im starting to wonder how I did this myself hehe
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
Misnblu wrote:So what you're saying is that you put the spacer behind the hub?
That would work out the same if not better since it wouldn't be an extra burden for the wheel studs etc.
Just curious as to how exactly you mean behind the rotor.
The hub itself is also hub-centric. Spacing the hub will also create stresses in bolts that you might not want. Not to mention the moment torque on the bolts at the hub will be much greater than if you pushed the wheel out off the hub face hub-centric. I'd rather push the wheel away from the rotor than space the hub away from the axle. Just my $0.02
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
^^Oh yea, mine are for sure in front of the hub.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
^^^ that was just you're spacing for the difference needed to get the rotor to clear wasnt it?
james used washers, as i think most do.
maybe im wrong??
i do know the j-body NEEDS spacers in the rear, it looks retarded without.
I'm using large washers behind my rotors (they were calipered to make sure they were all the same size for both sides) to get the rotors away from the bracket. The caliper was hitting the rotor when trying to mount it onto the mounting bracket and using the washers was the only way to space the rotor enough to clear the caliper correctly.
Brad, I'm still working out your washers and have you a set for one side only right now.
I'm going through alot of washers to have them all the same size.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO!
wait... what, dave? you used an actual spacer for you're neon swap instead of washers?
interesting... got pics?
z yaaaa wrote:wait... what, dave? you used an actual spacer for you're neon swap instead of washers?
interesting... got pics?
Yep, I didn't want to use washers. I needed 5/16th spacers for my front wheels to clear my calipers. I was like f it ill just use my 2 extra for the rear for the neon swap. At the same time it pushes the wheel out so it doesn't look retarted. No sorry, no pics.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD
AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
I bought some awesome adapters a few years ago. They are hub-centric, and have worked great. Look great too. Think they are like 1.5 inches.
ECOtec DOHC
OEM wrote:We can make them. Just let me know thickness and bolt pattern. I can turn them on the lathe pretty quick.
Mark-OEM
Hey Mark,
How much for half inch on either side? Thanks!
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I didnt have to use any kind of spacer on my neon swap, what gives.
Joshua Dearman wrote:Misnblu wrote:So what you're saying is that you put the spacer behind the hub?
That would work out the same if not better since it wouldn't be an extra burden for the wheel studs etc.
Just curious as to how exactly you mean behind the rotor.
The hub itself is also hub-centric. Spacing the hub will also create stresses in bolts that you might not want. Not to mention the moment torque on the bolts at the hub will be much greater than if you pushed the wheel out off the hub face hub-centric. I'd rather push the wheel away from the rotor than space the hub away from the axle. Just my $0.02
You could add a spacer between the bearing and the axle if you permanently attach (weld) it to the axle. 2nd gen axles have a .5" pad welded to the upright on the beam, then it gets faced side to side before going on the car at the factory. Its shaped exactly like the back of the bearing. Lop one of those off and weld it to your axle. 3rd gens don't have this. IMO, you're better off doing that then a spacer between the wheel and rotor. Use a grade 10.9 bolt (or grade 8 if you like standard), you should be all set.
z yaaaa wrote:^^^ that was just you're spacing for the difference needed to get the rotor to clear wasnt it?
james used washers, as i think most do.
maybe im wrong??
i do know the j-body NEEDS spacers in the rear, it looks retarded without.
Yup. I don't know how anyone could fit a 5/16" spacer in there though (or maybe I'm reading these replies wrong). Mine are like 1/8" at most. 5/16" would cause a lot of pad wear. The rotor should be as close to the middle of the caliper as possible in the middle of its travel.
Spencer wrote:I didnt have to use any kind of spacer on my neon swap, what gives.
There needs to be a spacer between the rotor and the bearing to keep the rotor from dragging on the dust shield/backing plate. If you got away without one, you're lucky, or something is wrong, or you used parts no one else has used.
I think the OP was looking for a wheel spacer between the rotor and the wheel. 1/2" is kind of pushing it with short studs like the bearing has. If you want to do it that way, press in longer studs to ensure enough thread engagement on the lug nuts. Should be at least 18-19mm of contact.
