Just bought a ttr k brace and never installed one before and would like to see a pic or pictures on how these get installed I know they go uo under the front right under the trans pan but would like to see where or how u mounted urs any help is appreciated thanks....
did you get your second hand? it comes with a good "how to"
Ill try to get a couple pics of mine today but if you have an auto you will have to mount it upside down. Its not to difficult to do just have to make sure you have it lined up right on the subframe and mark off the holes you will need to drill to mount it up. Also I found you cant get a wrench on the nuts to hold them in place while you tighten down most of the bolts (there is just no room) so in that case I just used an impact gun on those and it got them nice and tight. Good luck with it and once its on its makes a very nice difference.
Dave
use a split washer, it will help hold it in place and also help to keep it from backing off later too.
I had a manual and still mounted upside down as recommended by TTR, due to having the Prothane mounts installed. Highly recommend the TTR mounts if you want to mount right side up.
Love mine. Works fantastic. I had it mounted upside down for a while on my manual trans cause I didn't have mounts, but if you're also lowered be careful what you run over and be cautious of manholes or road work. I destroyed my first one like that. It hangs a good 1-2" lower than the frame and its lower than the oil pan too. I mounted the new one right side up now and havent had a problem since.
But it's a really simple install. It mounts basically as far foward as you can on the frame without the bolts interfering with the lower mount and rad support. Hold it in place with a couple vise grips or something, mark the holes drill and mount it up. It's easier to install if you remove the dog bone and the left side rad support bracket. Also if you put weight on the control arms(put jack stands under them) you can get a wrench into the frame to hold the back bolts.
Well with mine I got mine second hand the guy bought it opened it but never used it got it for 60 bucks and it came with the hardware I just did the addco rear sway bar and did the front one a few months ago all poly mounts running on Koni helpless and Koni springs just with the rear sway bar it made an improvement I also have both the upper rear and front strut bars also if anyone who could point me in the right direction for poly control ARM bushings would be appreciated..... As for the k brace I have never installed one so it will be a first once I know 100% how to install it I will be tackling it and possibly posting some pics.....
Prothane makes the control arm bushing. I got mine from TTR. allecotec.com has them or check the classifieds.
So also with the auto u guys are saying about a right and wrong way to mount it that's the kinda things I need to kno and also where it gets bolted to my brace has 6 holes all together in it do I use all of them.... I am itching to put this on so please any pics will be a big help....
use all the holes if you want the bar to do its job the way it was designed, w/ 4 attachment points. some home made bars only have two attachment points.
anything suspension-wise especially...the more mounting locations the better...so def use all bolt locations!
is it possible to have a shop simply weld the Kbrace on? other than the rear sway bar, I have everything else for stability upgrades...this was my next 'if i come across one cheap ill buy it' mod lol
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
you could but as you know we don't have a lot of space to work on things, you'd be better off being able to remove it when needed. its not that hard to do, I drilled the holes and mounted one up at my Apt parking lot. Be sure to use a board between your oil pan and the jack stands to spread out the weight. your going to need to move the lower dog bone out of the way to put bolts in on that side.
Ok so what how do I go about mounting one up meaning what and where do I gonna drill and whats the correct way to successfully install this and make this as smooth as possible....just don't wanna have it put on wrong since like I said before never installed one....
Once you get under the car and hold it in place, it will make complete sense.
As for the correct oreintation, on an auto it will hit the transmission one way and clear it the other. Obviously, you want it to clear the transmission.
"Oil Leak ? What oil Leak ? Oh, Thats Just The Sweat From All The HorsePower!!"
Lance Detwiler wrote:Ok so what how do I go about mounting one up meaning what and where do I gonna drill and whats the correct way to successfully install this and make this as smooth as possible....just don't wanna have it put on wrong since like I said before never installed one....
id just like to see one installed I have interest in one. so who ever can do a pic you would be helping two people out
Chris Gatti wrote:Lance Detwiler wrote:Ok so what how do I go about mounting one up meaning what and where do I gonna drill and whats the correct way to successfully install this and make this as smooth as possible....just don't wanna have it put on wrong since like I said before never installed one....
id just like to see one installed I have interest in one. so who ever can do a pic you would be helping two people out
if I have time when I get home from work tomorrow, I'll pull the cav out and jack it up and get some pics for you guys
http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=3&i=144468&t=144468#144468
i had to do a lot of searching to find Tim's thread on this, so your'e welcome.
his pics are shown for a manual, see how it snugs up under the subframe rails? you want it the same way for your auto, just upside down. you'll see once you go to put it under there, it won't fit on an auto if you try to snug it up like that. you just put it on upside down basically. but at least that thread gives you a general view of where your mounting points are.
you'll have to drill some holes, i don't remember if all 6 have to be drilled or if there are some there already or what. probly have to drill em all so be prepared for that. other than that when you have a general idea where the mounting points are the install's fairly self explanatory. as someone else pointed out, removing the lower dog bone engine mount allows you much better access to bolting on one section of it, remember to support the engine. (supposedly when removing the dog bone mount you don't need to but better safe than having an engine fall on your face is what i always say!)
Thanks guys those pics help out a lot could of not asked for any better ones that's a huge help gonna tackle this in the next week how much did it tighten up the car....
What rust?
Mine has morphed from black to brown
-M
Remember....syringes go in the RED waste basket.
going to be putting one in very soon, just purchased one used. though mine will be flipped the right way since Im standard. im guessing you installed it upside down because you have auto?
Lance, you ever get yours installed? pics?
04 Cav. 2dr. 5spd. My DD. 'Nuff said.
blu04DD wrote:going to be putting one in very soon, just purchased one used. though mine will be flipped the right way since Im standard. im guessing you installed it upside down because you have auto?
Lance, you ever get yours installed? pics?
correct, mine is upside down due to the auto trans
I have one of these brand new but it didn't fit right? When I held it up in place it looked like I would have to cut some of the smaller square tubing off to make it right. The bolt locations are correct, but there's too much tubing. ALIA5 if you flipped yours right side up it looks like you'd have the same issue according to the last picture you posted. I wish I would have taken pictures to show you guys what I mean...
"In Oldskool we trust"
Aaron @ TTR did a great job on these braces, he took over making and selling them when TeamGREEN didn't have access to a welder anymore. He added a few touches to them and had them powdercoated and included a great hardwear kit and directions!
They were originally designed to be a tight fit into the subframe, but as we all know mass produced items are never 100% identicle. Possible the subframe is a little tighter, damaged, or the bar is a little long.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap