Soo I just finished the eco swap in my 01 z24, and having some issues..Engine, trans,and harness all came from a wrecked 02 lss I bought which started up first click had no problems whatsoever. So hooked my battery up which is in the trunk, go to prime the fuel system before startup and Im not getting anything. No cluster lights, no fuel priming, and nothing when I try to click it over to even just do the passlock relearn. My interior lights/locks are working ok as are headlights, also when I power my voltmeter gauge it reads just about 12 as should be.
Before the swap I did swap out my whole interior for graphite except the dash yet, just have the upper pad off and removed the pass airbag. I followed the engine harness and everything is hooked up as it should be, Im just kind of at a loss. Olny thing I havnt done is pulled/tested fuses but like said all was fine before the swap. One other thing, I puylled back the carpet up under the driver dash making sure the battery cable wasnt pinched or anything, and noticed a small white with black stripe wire that was disconnected from the interior harness..any idea what this wire is? Im not sure if it was ripped out on accident when swapping carpets or unwiring gauges or something.
just throwing this out there but do you have the batter feed hook up to the fuse panel under the hood connected.
JBO since July 30, 2001
+ one for graphite interior swap.
-50 million for eco swap.
I feel like taking a tinkle on an ecNOtec...
Lol sorry Brad..spun a bearing in my ld9 and it was the easiest option!
Yep the fuse panel is hooked up to the battery cable, A 2g wire goes from alt to starter,where it meets 4g wiring that goes to a connection with 2g wire to the fuse panel and 2g wire going back to the battery.
So originally I hadnt swapped over the interior wiring cause I thought 2k+ dash harness was the same. What all wiring needs to be swapped over? Today I swapped over the bcm and dash harness, hooked up all the connections to the engine harness, and most of the interior including cluster,ignition,etc..Hooked up the battery to try and crank it and its the same as it was. I dont get anything on the cluster, no security light or even an attempt to crank.
I did notice my wiring that connects to the bcm/dash harness on my 01 was very different. When I bought the car it had an aftermarket alarm installed soo for the door wiring there are extra audiovox boxes,inline fuses,etc and the purple connector that should be there is missing but the wiring is the same color as I compared to the 02 wiring. Though, the tiny black wire coming off the bcm going into the rest of the harness tore, is this a ground?
Im just realy kind of stumped, the entire interior wiring doesnt need to be swapped over correct? Like said I cant hear the fuel pump priming, what wiring does this consist of?
Also just curious why have I seen many swaps where people didnt even touch the bcm/dash harness? Just swapped the engine harness over and had no problem.
All sensors underhood are where they should be, possible my grounds are mixed up? Also stupid question is it possible for the main engine to bcm connector to be backwards?
When we did the ld9 swap in my 03, same time we did a eco swap in a 2000, all we did was swap everything over. I would check to make sure everything is grounded and start checking fueses. How are your grounds run?
no need for interior harness. with out the theft relearn the car will prime but not send spark. id also check all grounds and positve batt feed. we had a buddies line come just a lil loose and bam nothing. on his relocated batt. found the loose wire and fires right up.(ull of coarse need to do the relearn still). and if i recall the look of it i believe u may had a brain fart and flipped the main body harness near the fire wall.this also could be loose. id check here too. this will kill all power to the cluster and comunication of the computer. heck i remember we just repaired a 10k front end hit tsx and since we needed to repaint almost the whole engine bay the ground for the abs system was tight n all but was not grounding, nobody even the acura tech couldnt fig why the brakes wouldnt work untill i scuffed the grounding area and bingo. system all check now. basically my point is no matter how stupid u may think the place is to look for the problem it just maybe the answer u seek.
yeah man 00+ you dont have to touch the interior
JBO since July 30, 2001
Yea thats what I had figured auto to auto I didnt need to swap the dash harness, oh well I guess it cant hurt anything but whats the small black wire coming out of the bcm going back into the harness? Is this a ground?
I did also check my batt cable, like said Im getting power unlocking doors,headlights,interiors lights,etc but nothing when I click over the key. Only thing Im thinking is I may have mixed up some grounds under the hood and maybe blew a fuse. Gona test ome fuses and check wiring today. For the main bcm-engine harness connector, would it tighten down if it was flipped?
Soo all the extras are getting power, but not the cluster/radio and pcm. Gona finish all the interior connections and put my dash back in then move back under the hood. Thanks guys
Thats what I thought then someone on ecotecforum said 95-01 doesnt work with newer stuff and I was confused..oh well my old bcm was all hacked up and had all the extra alarm crap so couldnt hurt. Plus gave me a reason to swap my cracked up dash out lol.
Does anyone have a diagram of underhood grounds on the eco harness just soo I can be sure?
Soo went out and checked all bcm/pcm/etc fuses underhood and inside and all are fine. I then flipped the main bcm-engine connector around, and what do ya know it was backwards. Didnt think it would go together the opposite way but it did.
Anyways, cluster works and can hear the pump prime now, but still no start??? I tried the passlock relearn as well even thought I dont have a security light. I click the key to on and all lights come on but then after about 3 seconds all lights go sway except cel, airbag and battery. I can see the cluster resets itself when I try to click it over to start then goes back to on, is this normal?
Im curious about that black wire coming out of the bcm that ripped, hooked to a ground and made no difference. Im thinking its in the engine wiring somewhere. But only plug I found not being used is a small 3-prong connector with purple seal thats right by the injector harness plug, I thought it was a/c related but not sure. I cut the plug that goes to the compressor off since the car wont be having a/c.
so the car is not rolling over? Starter is not engaging?
FU Tuning
Yea it seems that way, its not clicking over at all. The car is getting power though all power accessories work fine and my voltmeter gauge reads just about 12v when ignition is turned on. Only thing I can think of is the wire from starter to the fuse box/batt relocation cable got pinched when putting the motor in but it didnt tear though at all, its a 4g wire
When I try to start it its amost like my cluster/radion resets itself,then once it clicks back to the on position they go back..like my fuel gauge drops and radio turns off when in the start position, then goes back on. What does this sound like?
test the starter. Put the key in on position and get another wire or cable and run power from battery to the starter and see if it kicks on.
FU Tuning
Ill give that a shot tomorow. When I originaly tried to fire it for the first time I forgot to tighten the small wire on the starter coming from the harness I believe..this couldnt have caused any damage could it?
Check the fusible link between battery and starter.
goto www.alldatadiy.com
sign up for your year car, they have wiring diagrams out the ying yang... electrical diagrams, connector pinouts, locations, etc etc
it is a very valuable resource to have when having electrical issues. it'll help you determine any random wires and what they are/ where they go.
well glad u solved one issue. yep weird how u wouldnt think that harness was backwards but wala. Check the connector on the coilpack. i had a cracked plug and just as i left the shop got 500ft and whole car died and wouldnt start(bs at 10pm) so i found out it was just missing the connection inside. could also have a bad coil pack or that finned thing that the harnesss plugs into. also make sure ur crank sensor is tight and plugged in correctly.its a white two wire plug just to the left of the big round grey plug on the trans.backward=no start. just missing contact=no start. these are just a few issues ive had duing my swap that are simple checks but maysolve.wish i was able to come down for the swap woulda had u running that day.
Ok think I figured out the poblem.. the power stud on the starter was loose and broke when retightening. Hoping this is the problem atleast cause when touching the 2 studs together with a screwdriver with the car in on position I could hear the starter clicking like it wasnt getting power. It made this same sound on my ld9 when my battery was dead.
Soo question I have is does anyone know if the starter solenoid is the same from the 2k+ ld9 to the eco? When searching on ebay they are listed separate but both are listed for delco PG260D, PG260F1, PG260F2, PG260G, PG260L, PG260M Series PMGR Starters but different vehicles. I have an almost new ld9 starter which if swappable I can just swap the solenoid over since parts places dont sell just solenoids
Soo swapped the solenoid over no problem, and got a new battery since mine was actualy bad lol.
Got the car to start by touching the 2 starter posts together, but still wont start by the ignition..Does the eco even have a fusible link, cause I cant find one unless its deeper in the harness. Also Ive heard some people needed to swap over the ignition switch from the eco?
Soo basicaly the stater is being restricted power somehow, or something in the ignition isnt working.
When we have done Ecotec swaps we have had to swap ign switches, BUT our cars would roll over just not crank, or start. It would just roll over all day and we were not getting injectors firing. Swapped switches and bam injectors fired and car started then went into theft lock.
FU Tuning
Hmm..so basicaly the eco has a starter relay instead of a fusible link inline like the ld9 harness? Guess Im gona swap over the ignition switch and see what happens, dont have many ideas left.
did u look over the stuff i said to check? this will all stop it from turning over. all the swaps ive done not once did i need to switch ign. did the passlock relearn and wola. also u know there is two passlock relearns. on is lock 1 and one is lock 2.
Yep Wayne I did thanks, but wont it not start even manualy if there were problems with these? When I jumped the starter it started up fine after a few clicks, and engine ran smooth for the few mins I let it run. Soo once running its fine, just either something is restriciting the ignition or starter but the starter does work. Some said check the fusible link, since the eco doesnt have one is it possible the starter relay is bad? If soo what could have blown the relay?
Correct me if im wrong but fo the passlock to even work it has to actualy start right? I mean I can start it by jumping the starter but the ignition doesnt actualy crank over soo it pretty much bypasses passlock soo thats not the problem.
icemike89 wrote:Yep Wayne I did thanks, but wont it not start even manualy if there were problems with these? When I jumped the starter it started up fine after a few clicks, and engine ran smooth for the few mins I let it run. Soo once running its fine, just either something is restriciting the ignition or starter but the starter does work. Some said check the fusible link, since the eco doesnt have one is it possible the starter relay is bad? If soo what could have blown the relay?
Correct me if im wrong but fo the passlock to even work it has to actualy start right? I mean I can start it by jumping the starter but the ignition doesnt actualy crank over soo it pretty much bypasses passlock soo thats not the problem.
pretty sure the wiring for the starter IS the fusible link.. the wire is designed to burnup in the case of a short but not cause a fire.
another thing.. are you using an eco starter? and are you 100% sure its wired correctly?
I had problems with a 98 sunfire I had as a DD. It would start and die right away I could bump it but it still wouldn't stay running. Once I rewired the starter it was fine.
