Definately not an audio guy, so please excuse the dumb question...

I want to keep my stock headunit (never liked the look of an aftermarket). Can I somehow run a sub from the unit? I built a box for the sub and amp last year, seems like a shame not to use them. If so, can you tell me what components I need? I'm planning on pulling the dash soon, and only want to do it once.

A huge thanks in advance.

Matt

youd need a line out adapter, which takes speaker level signal and converts it to the rca cables that go to an amps input. I recomment splicing off in the trunk if you were to do this, off the signal to the 6x9's in the deck, this way the rca cable is as short as is possible, but it can be done in the dash as well. then you need to find a swiching power source for the amp remote (i have a monsoon system in mine running subs, so i just ran a 12v switch) but you would need a voltmeter to see what comes to the back of the stock headunit as a switching 12v supply, and splice off that for the amp remote.

Most cav's don't have a switched 12v behind the radio, try tapping into the orange wire from the ignition harness for your switched power. And yes, Matt is right about the line out converter. I installed one in a 2006 Expedition yesterday. I don't like the way they sound, being a lot of headunits stop turning up the bass when you hit 1/2 volume on newer cars. They pound at low volume, but never get louder. It's up to you.

you can run one but it wont sound to good

you should probably get another deck if you want subs

or maybe a bazooka tube


Whats up people?

Really, won't sound good? Curious.

If I read it right, sounds like I don't really need to get behind the stock head unit regardless. Use a line out adapter tapped into the rear speaker wires, and a hot source for power. I could just jump this power from any wire that's hot only when the ignition is on, and run a switch to it so I can control the amp.

Sound right? Thanks for the help!



Matt S.

I plan on doing the same btw nice cav matt

Wiper fuse or there is a switched 12v in the stereo harness, can't remember which color it is.

there is a swithched 12 v in the harness, unfortunately its not obvious. On older cars with electric antennas you could use it to switch on or off the amp.

Best bet is using the 12v accessory in the ignition wiring as stated.


-Chris

I have a line out adapter if any one is interestest. $80 bucks new, pm and make me an offer.

Damn that's expensive... we sell em for like $24 at Best Buy. But it's hit or miss Matt S about the quality. On some cars, it sounds downright awesome, on some.. it doesn't. Like on that 06 Expedition we did, sounded like garbage. But we put 2 P1 12" rockfords and a cheap 150watt rms rockford amp in a 2005 Jeep Liberty, and damn... that sounded damn good for the power. Try it out man, but if isn't to your liking, you can always get a HU.

I'm using a line-out converter...was like $20 from Scosche(sp?). I'm runnin a 400 watt amp and 12" p1 in a ported box. I turned it up the other day and set my friend's car alarm at just over 3/4 volume, with bass 3/4 up. I love the sound of it right now, so yeah it will work. Kind of shocks some people that I still have a stock h/u.

OhForKavaleerLSport wrote:I'm using a line-out converter...was like $20 from Scosche(sp?). I'm runnin a 400 watt amp and 12" p1 in a ported box. I turned it up the other day and set my friend's car alarm at just over 3/4 volume, with bass 3/4 up. I love the sound of it right now, so yeah it will work. Kind of shocks some people that I still have a stock h/u.

does your system make a clean sound with that line out converter? not raspy or crackle

i went that method a long time ago and it doesn't sound bad at all

well i can tell you first hand experience on a j and a line out converter.

I installed a 800 watt rms MA Audio amp and and a 10" Ma audio sub i believe 500-600 RMS in my friends 03' sunfire along with all new speakers

and when you turn the volume up it pounds with out distortion or anything it sound great better/clearer then alot of aftermarket systems i have ever heard.

also a FYI alot of line converters on the market today have a switched 12+ source on them already, and how that works from what i understand is it converts power off the speakers? i think its how it works, i havent used one yet but a friend of mine has.

also another option with a stock deck is to buy a amp with high level inputs and tap speaker wires into the rear speakers and run them down to the amp and into the high level inputs.

Hope this all helps and if you need any more info feel free to email me!


Who needs a sig?
www.sinisterimages.com

im lost here


ShowOff Customz
03 Cavalier
73 Beetle
68 Fairlane 500

I want to keep my stock head unit, but bypass the internal power amp, and add aftermarket amps.
I once heard of someone who would open up the stock head unit, and add pre-amp outputs. Anybody know anything about that? Or should I just go w/the converter?

It's a '98 Z24 w/basic CD player, no Monsoon.


'98 Z24 Convertible

Anybody?.....A little help here please?



'98 Z24 Convertible

I used a PAC SNI-35 to add a powered Bazooka sub into a 2003 Civic EX coupe. No problems. Sounded fine. Adjustable levels are nice.

line outs are very easy to install. I had one in mine before buying a HU. I was very impressed with the sound. I was running 1 memphis 12" with a 500d with remote bass gain a line driver and a cap, hitting well in the 140's. peripheral makes a good line out. we sell them at our shop for about $25. their web site is http://peripheralelectronics.com/web/home.asp you can see what they look like. you can also view my cardomain. in the audio section there is a pic of my setup with the line out. that one is an older one and i ran the wires through the amp and line driver.
the guys are right in that the stereo is louder at 40 then if you turn it all the way up. not sure why, we have just noticed that on most of the installs we have done.

I was using the LOC before i got my aftermarket headunit.......Alpine CDA-9856 with the Hi-Speed ipod connection. I love it and highly recommend it!! Anyway when i had the LOC i tapped into the rear 6x9 speakers and everything worked fine, besides the fact it was hard to control the power/volume of the subs. I would have to turn the bass all the way down when i didnt feel like bumpin....haha. It just plain didn't sound good. Anyway unless you just cant afford it, i totally recommend the aftermarket headunit.

It's not a question of money.
I just want to keep all of my cars the same.



'98 Z24 Convertible

Hey Johnny, as far as opening the stock headunit and putting in a pre-amp output idk how that would work, but I def woulnt recommend it. I have a 97 cav and before I installed my current system I had one 10 running off a lineout w/o and probs. Now if you're looking at doing more than one amp I would definately change the radio. Using one lineout is ok but if you want to run two or spilt the rca's on one lineout you're almost guranteed problems, engine noise, popping, etc... just not good. If you want to just do one amp and your not sure if you'll like the sound off the lineout I'd suggest running the lineout off speaker wire behind the radio and running some 17' RCA's to the the amp, that way if you ever do decide to change out to an aftermarket headunit the RCA's are right there. Hope it helps and goodluck.

My 2 cents here. Use your factory head unit, it will work fine. Get a PAC trunk loc, this is a part # trunkloc by PAC. This is a L.O.C. w/ built in amp turn on, and line driver. You can get on for $25. Hook in to one side rear speaker. You will be running a 12v amp wire from the battery already so there is your 12V input for the switched amp turn on wire from the PAC unit. Make all your conections in the trunk.(hence the name) The adjustable line driver will help tune the subs better. I recomend a sub amp w/ a remote bass gain to help the problem of to loud at low volume and to not loud enough at high volumes.


****If any one has used this item in a newer GM vehicle and the amp turns on and off at higher volume, I can tell you how to fix this. I told the techs at PAC and they gave me some T-shirts-HAHA***

i did it and it worked great, no problems, i spliced into the rear speakers, then used the brown wire from my stock amp as an accesorry wire, worked great and its all in the trunk close, no long wires needed.

Thanks. I'm gonna try the trunkloc.


'98 Z24 Convertible