I'm looking at upgrading to a set of 6.5" components in the front. Was looking at the Alpine type r's. Anything else out there that is close in price to these that anyone would suggest? I have an MTX amp powering them that puts about 50 watts rms to each one at 4 ohm.

Well first off, you're going to be underpowering just about any speaker out there with that amp; you're gonna wanna look into an amp that puts out closer to 100Wx2 @4 ohms...the Alpine MRP-F250 and F300 are inexpensive and nice.

As for the speakers: I like the type-r's, but for about the same price you might want to look at the Infinity Kappa or Perfect series, Diamond D6's, or the Soundstream XStream's. Those are just the ones that I have personal experience with in that same price range. Go find a custom car audio shop nearby and see if they have anything on demo you can listen to...hell, hit every one in town if you can, along with Best Buy, Circuit City, Ultimate Electronics (if you live in the SW). See what you like, see what you can afford.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-SPX-13PRO-480W-5-25-CAR-COMPONENT-SPEAKER-SYSTEM_W0QQitemZ360075449070QQihZ023QQcategoryZ32818QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I don't know what price range you're looking at, but thats an awesome price for a pair of SPXPros. I just ordered a pair myself. I haven't gotten an amp yet though, I was looking at using the alpine MRP-250.

Those are awesome components...definitely one of the best products put out by alpine

PC: you're probably gonna want to get the F300 instead of the F250

Was planning to upgrade the amp soon enough, main reaon I'm upgrading speakers. But was just wondering anything else for the price that was worth looking into.

Like I said - kappas, perfects, xstreams, definitely those type-x's, and d6's. Those are about what you're looking for "mainstream" brands.

Lnhiv (DesertTuners) wrote:Those are awesome components...definitely one of the best products put out by alpine

PC: you're probably gonna want to get the F300 instead of the F250

Yea i was thinking about that. Both those amps are about the same price, i was just worried about sending to much power to the comps with the 300, but i think the type X's should handle it fine

Wait, you're getting the 5.25's aren't you...those do 80w rms, so actually u were right in the first place, the F250 is the right amp (100w x 2 @ 4). The 6.5's do 100w rms, which will take either amp. My bad. Honestly they'll both take either, but the 250 is better suited to the 5.25's.

going with 6.5's. Wasn't going to upgrade the amp till later. I was looking at type r's but ya that is good for those. Anyone have any experience with the JBL Power P650C 6.5. Suposedly similar to the type r.

100 w per channel for a set of speakers? Are you people serious?

Do any of you guys plan on having hearing for the rest of your life? A 50x4 (or 50x2, however your setup is) is more than enough. People nowadays buy amps and speakers that are wayyyyy too powerful for what they need. You'd be surprised what a 50x4 and 250x1 single 12 can do.



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- Sold my beloved J in April 2010 -

Anyone have any thoughts on how the type X-refs compare to the type r's?

Type-X are noticeably cleaner and hit a little harder (all of the X line is that way). It's just that the pro's are even cleaner yet, plus they handle a little more rms wattage. The pro's are worth it if you can get it, but the ref are still a definite upgrade from the R.

Viper...not really, lol, jk.

Actually, most of my equipment never reaches half volume. I simply like the added headroom that the extra power offers. Plus underpowering your speakers is a nono in my book...way too easy to push the amp into clipping.

at least you cant blow a speaker by sending it a clipped signal below the rms range of the speaker


"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin

^^JBO is about not being that guy

no, but it's possible to screw up the voice coil, though not likely, and it's most definitely possible to mess up your amps outputs and the board.

you cant ruin a boice coil below the speakers rms value. your not putting enough current to cause the vc to heat up enough to ruin it. most voice coils are ruined by sending too much ower or a clipped signal at rms power and overheating it because the speaker is not designed to cool enough in either situation.


"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin

^^JBO is about not being that guy

i'd rather have more power then i need then less. you can destroy a speaker with less then rms power. its problaby one of the leading deaths of speakers. 100watts x 2 isnt that loud for a set of highs. more power means more headroom which is a good thing.


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sndsgood wrote:i'd rather have more power then i need then less. you can destroy a speaker with less then rms power. its problaby one of the leading deaths of speakers. 100watts x 2 isnt that loud for a set of highs. more power means more headroom which is a good thing.

Thats bull@!#$ ! at lower power you are not reaching the mechanical or thermal limits of the speaker. Its when you have to little power and you turn up the gain to make it louder and you start clipping.

Your amp is not always producing the rated power. turn it down and it produces less power (duh) so if i listen to a CD on low volume my speakers are going to blow? negative.

And i agree 100w is not allot for a speaker. my amp for my front speakers is around 250 at 4ohm and 350 and 2 ohm. (usamps)

Stephen wrote:

sndsgood wrote:i'd rather have more power then i need then less. you can destroy a speaker with less then rms power. its problaby one of the leading deaths of speakers. 100watts x 2 isnt that loud for a set of highs. more power means more headroom which is a good thing.

Thats bull@!#$ ! at lower power you are not reaching the mechanical or thermal limits of the speaker. Its when you have to little power and you turn up the gain to make it louder and you start clipping.

Your amp is not always producing the rated power. turn it down and it produces less power (duh) so if i listen to a CD on low volume my speakers are going to blow? negative.

And i agree 100w is not allot for a speaker. my amp for my front speakers is around 250 at 4ohm and 350 and 2 ohm. (usamps)

i can't wait to see where this thread goes

ToBoGgAn wrote:

Stephen wrote:

sndsgood wrote:i'd rather have more power then i need then less. you can destroy a speaker with less then rms power. its problaby one of the leading deaths of speakers. 100watts x 2 isnt that loud for a set of highs. more power means more headroom which is a good thing.

Thats bull@!#$ ! at lower power you are not reaching the mechanical or thermal limits of the speaker. Its when you have to little power and you turn up the gain to make it louder and you start clipping.

Your amp is not always producing the rated power. turn it down and it produces less power (duh) so if i listen to a CD on low volume my speakers are going to blow? negative.

And i agree 100w is not allot for a speaker. my amp for my front speakers is around 250 at 4ohm and 350 and 2 ohm. (usamps)

i can't wait to see where this thread goes

endless argument. im agreeing to disagree.
this is gonna be like the capacitor versus no capacitor argument


"I did it because I wanted to see what it would look like. You should be greatful that I even told you that it would look good. If your to dumb to use photoshop and change the color of your own car then you don't need to see it changed. I'm not going to give my work away. I'll sell the pic to you though for $15."-Adam Kalin

^^JBO is about not being that guy

Just match your amp as closely to the rated power of the speakers as possible...if you can't then don't be stupid and let it clip. Done, end of story.

Chris Rogerson wrote:you cant ruin a boice coil below the speakers rms value. your not putting enough current to cause the vc to heat up enough to ruin it. most voice coils are ruined by sending too much ower or a clipped signal at rms power and overheating it because the speaker is not designed to cool enough in either situation.

not 100% true.

With a distorted enough signal, you can still damage the speaker/ coil.

Hook up a 100 watt 4 ohm speaker to 18volts of DC voltage. Now there is no coiling introduced into the speaker with DC, but its still going to damage it over time.

Clipping an amplifier hard enough does the same thing as DC.


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I am a die-hard Alpine fan but, the new Pioneer TS-1720C 6.5 component set is absolutely insane in the $100-$110 price range. 35wattsx2 RMS and sound beautiful. I know someone that is powering these off a DEH-6000 (I think that's it's the model number) deck and still sounds pretty good. This is what I am getting ready to install in my Cavy as soon as I get my tweeter pods done for the doors.

Alex Lindeman wrote:

Chris Rogerson wrote:you cant ruin a boice coil below the speakers rms value. your not putting enough current to cause the vc to heat up enough to ruin it. most voice coils are ruined by sending too much ower or a clipped signal at rms power and overheating it because the speaker is not designed to cool enough in either situation.

not 100% true.

With a distorted enough signal, you can still damage the speaker/ coil.

Hook up a 100 watt 4 ohm speaker to 18volts of DC voltage. Now there is no coiling introduced into the speaker with DC, but its still going to damage it over time.

Clipping an amplifier hard enough does the same thing as DC.

not 100% true either.

Even at 100% distortion the signal is a square wave, not DC.

Stephen wrote:

sndsgood wrote:i'd rather have more power then i need then less. you can destroy a speaker with less then rms power. its problaby one of the leading deaths of speakers. 100watts x 2 isnt that loud for a set of highs. more power means more headroom which is a good thing.

Thats bull@!#$ ! at lower power you are not reaching the mechanical or thermal limits of the speaker. Its when you have to little power and you turn up the gain to make it louder and you start clipping.

Your amp is not always producing the rated power. turn it down and it produces less power (duh) so if i listen to a CD on low volume my speakers are going to blow? negative.

And i agree 100w is not allot for a speaker. my amp for my front speakers is around 250 at 4ohm and 350 and 2 ohm. (usamps)

you pointed out my point in your very own post. "its when u have to little power and you TURN UP THE GAIN and you start CLIPPING."

thats when people blow speakers. that pretty much why 90% of speakers blowing is from kids thinking the gain is a volume knob and turning up the gain trying to get more power out of it. it has nothing to do with the fact that the amp is making less power then the rms of the speaker, and everything to do with the person who jacks up the gain trying to get more. . you both probalby havn't been here long because ive probalbly stated this type answer a dozen or more times in posts on here in the last several years so my apologies for not spelling it out for everyone. tobogan new what i was getting at because he has seen this type post before.

for chris rogerson, id bet you can easily destoy speakers with a clipped signal. would a high quality speaker blow. possibly not because its designed for optimum cooling of the voicecoil. but there are tons of speakers out there that arn't high quality speakers and overheating voicecoil is less a concern then making it all shiny and looking cool.





Edited 4 time(s). Last edited Saturday, August 09, 2008 8:07 AM

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