Tried a few 6x9 from Sony and Pioneers from Best Buy. The diameter of magnets are too big; it hits the trunk tension bar. Anybody know of any shallow 6x9's that are fairly sensitive in terms of db? I'm only running off a 17watt by 4 RMS Sony H/U and don't plan to amp. Crutchfield says I should go to 6.5", but then whatever bottom end I had goes out the window. I have been trying to use OEM speaker brackets, but then rear deck doesn't sit flush. I'd prefer not to cut to show speaker covers due to theft potential in my neighborhood. Feeling frustrated Any help/advice/etc. appreciated... Any models, makes, experience with these things would be great. I checked the speaker size sticky, but I'd really like to be pointed in the direction od a certain model. TY!
A decent 6.5" will have just as much bottom end as a 6x9. If you have your heart set on 6x9's I'm not sure what to point you at here. As far as 6.5's, I've had Lanzars, JVC's, Kickers, Kenwoods, and Rockford Fosgates and I'd say the best sounding were the kickers. Try Lanzars for 6x9's, I had a set of those at one point as well but IDK the magnet diameter.
As far as theft, IDK where you live, but I rarely see a thief who will go to the effort to take speakers out of a deck or doors. Mostly HU's, subs, amps, things they can resell for decent amounts of money. Just a thought.
Hope this helps !
Kicker is definitely one of the most sensitive in the 'big box store' market, if not a little too bright.
My JL VR 6x9's are Mounted to the bottom of the rear deck of my Daily Driver, well they are HUGE and DO NOT hit the tensioner bars at all. Why does yours hit?
No ones going to go through the difficulty of taking the rear speakers out. Its not a quick thing to do. A lot of cussing my first time. I just dont see anyone wasting time stealing them. Subs and HUs get stolen because they can just break the trim and take out two screws and subs are a few screws.
TheSundownFire wrote:No ones going to go through the difficulty of taking the rear speakers out. Its not a quick thing to do. A lot of cussing my first time. I just dont see anyone wasting time stealing them. Subs and HUs get stolen because they can just break the trim and take out two screws and subs are a few screws.
Dude are you SERIOUS?
get in a cavalier, lower the seat, pull on the rear trim like a @!#$
pop the 6x9 tabs
profit
theives don't go through any measures to protect trim or anything
i could take out my rear speakers with one hand tied behind my back
cant undestand why your spearks hit. mine are fine... maybe u didnt use the plastic mount?
Working on obtainting an M-Class license... ?? Hint: 2 wheels.
Hi all. I was trying to get the 6x9's top mounted on the rear deck, and avoid cutting the cardboard / fabric deck cover. All the aftermarket 6x9's smack right onto the tension bar for the trunk lid. That is with me using the plastic factory mounts.
The Pioneers at 2-7/8" came VERY close to clearing, but the diameter of the magnet was too great and caused it to stick on that ^%# bar. I figured it would be a simple swap and drop deal, but the OEM speakers were REALLY shallow. I'm sort of surprised more people haven't run into this problem... I haven't tried a bottom mount yet except for a pair of Infinity References (awesome speakers BTW), but the rubber surround on them was too big and it pressed into the rim of the speaker cavity. Other speakers have been too deep to wedge between the tension bars and underside of the deck for a bottom mount
I still can't see why? I have mine mounted UNDER the rear deck and they are HUGE and DO NOT hit anything. I will go take a pic tomorrow.
bradsk88 wrote:TheSundownFire wrote:No ones going to go through the difficulty of taking the rear speakers out. Its not a quick thing to do. A lot of cussing my first time. I just dont see anyone wasting time stealing them. Subs and HUs get stolen because they can just break the trim and take out two screws and subs are a few screws.
Dude are you SERIOUS?
get in a cavalier, lower the seat, pull on the rear trim like a @!#$
pop the 6x9 tabs
profit
theives don't go through any measures to protect trim or anything
All Im saying is that for a thief with no experience with the removal it would be a bit more difficult than to someone who had done it before. They dont have time to sit and go hmmmmmm how does this come out. Just grab and go.
I've worked at a few yards and I'd say I could pull a radio in about 15 seconds. Speakers? A few minutes.
Just saying.
But here's a ? for the op. If you're concerned about using the oem grille, I would wonder if you couldn't fit a 1/2" MDF spacer underneath and solve your problem with $5 worth of wood and 29 minutes
There's a thin line to be crossed, when the upgrades to your vehicle increase your chance to get tickets by an amount exponential enough to stop worrying and build the fastest, loudest car you can.
I went and re-purchased a pair of 6x9 Pioneer Premier 3 ways and tried to plop them in after work today. I used the oem speaker brackets, and the tension bar smacks right into the side of the speaker magnet on the driver's side (the other side has loads of room since the tension rod drops away from the speaker cavity). The Pioneers have a top-mount depth of 2-7/8", and the '97 Cavy is rated as needing 3" by SonicElectronix (sp?). I may give the spacer a try, but as is, the tweeter housing is a bit too tall, and pushes up on the rear deck. The only other thing I can think of is that the lid's tension rods are supported by these little angled grooves under each hinge, abd they almost look like they could be moved. However, I couldn't get them to budge with the trunk open or closed. Very frustrating
Those are Torsion bars, the different slots that the bars are in give the trunk more or less spring rate when it opens. I believe that are there because some cars have spoilers and some don't. Not sure what position mine are in, but I will look and see, then I'll let ya know.
They are meant to be able to move them. However, you you remove some spring rate your trunk may not stay open, or if you raise the spring rate your trunk may fly open whne you use the trunk release.
Just be careful if you remove them. Lot of power packed in those little rods.
I was going to suggest just adjusting the tensioner so it's out of the way. Run the Speakers you want. Just be warry of opening the trunk.
Everything Louder than Everything else
just move the rods but BE CAREFUL
i repositioned them in my neighbours car after taking his spoiler off. they dont move easy but its doable
its really a shame that being stupid doesn't hurt more
