Rebuilding my sub box. I'm wondering if anyone knows where to get better input terminals for the back of the box. I had some really cheapo 2$ ones from radioshak, but I don't trust them not be impedeing performance of the subs. I'm in Canada so I've been to visions and best buy and suh to try and find them but no luck, went to a couple car audio places that do installs but they on't sell the terminals. Anyone know of stores that may e in my area I could try, or is my best bet online, if so how can I tell if I'm getting a good one. Thanks

crutchfield.com is always a good place to start, they have some at reasonable prices

just dont use terminal cups. run the wires through a small hole in the box and fill the hole with silicone.



car audio noob since 1984.

Um.... No actually terminal cups aren't going to be the end of the world all the time Rich.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart

JLAudioCavalier wrote:Um.... No actually terminal cups aren't going to be the end of the world all the time Rich.

didnt say they were... just giving the option that you dont need to use them..



car audio noob since 1984.

no no no no. You were outright saying that is how you do it. You weren't giving an additional option, you worded it as the right and only way to do it.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart

I used a 1/4 inch bolt and a few nuts. It's airtight. The terminal cups from the radio shack will be fine.

JLAudioCavalier wrote:no no no no. You were outright saying that is how you do it. You weren't giving an additional option, you worded it as the right and only way to do it.

then i apologize. was not how i meant it.



car audio noob since 1984.

Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:I used a 1/4 inch bolt and a few nuts. It's airtight. The terminal cups from the radio shack will be fine.

this would be a very good idea. ive had problems with the plastic on the terminals melting a little bit. thats why i dont use terminals. i really like the bolt idea..... im gunna use it on my next box..





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1/4 inch ready rod works great to

Anton Miller wrote:

Lanman31337 - Cavfire wrote:I used a 1/4 inch bolt and a few nuts. It's airtight. The terminal cups from the radio shack will be fine.

this would be a very good idea. ive had problems with the plastic on the terminals melting a little bit. thats why i dont use terminals. i really like the bolt idea..... im gunna use it on my next box..

Damn. How is you terminal getting that hot?

Im probably using the bolts when I rebuild. I saw it on SMD awhile back. Seemed easier to me.

I'm not sure I understand the bolt idea I want something clean looking, I've done the siliconed hole idea before, didn't find it worked well. No matter how much i siliconed it, it kept leaking. So exactly how do I use a bolt? If the radio shak terminals will wok though I might just go for them for the easy disconnect. I was just concerned the subs wouldn't get sufficient power or something through the little terminals.

As far as the subs getting enough power, you are fine. Just put enough silicone around the hole and screw the terminal cup into place. Shouldn't have any issues at all.

Now, the bolt Idea is quite simple really. here is how I would do it(LanMan might have done his differently):
1. Drill a hole just big enough for your threaded rod to go into and silicone it after inserting the threaded rod.
2. Put a nut with locking washer(the kind with the teeth, not the spring steel ones) on each side of the box and tighten the threaded rod into place.
3. Put the proper ring terminals on the speaker wire from the sub to the box, use another nut and tighten it down snug.
4. Do the same with the speaker wire from the amp to the box.

This would make for a very clean, air tight, solid connection.


On the other hand....you have other fingers.

In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart

I would drill the hole a bit smaller than the rod. Put silicone in the hole and twist the threaded rod into the hole. Less likely to have leaks then.