My front speakers were making a fuzzy sound when playing music so I assumed they went? I took the door panel off and was inspecting the speaker and it was fine. Then I turned on the radio and the speaker wont play at all. Will getting new speakers fix this or is it something serious. Also, if I get new 4x6s how do I wire them in? Do I wire the speakers to the plug or cut that out and just splice the wires together?
Thanks
go with 6.5"s they are way better.
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DO NOT CUT AND SPLCE. EVER.
car audio noob since 1984.
So would I sauder the speaker to the clip? Or should I just eliminate the clip?
when you pull the speaker out, you can take the clip on the factory speaker off and put it on your new ones.
car audio noob since 1984.
or you can get little wire tap (thats what i call them) that just splice into the factory wires and then go from there.
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Anton Miller wrote:or you can get little wire tap (thats what i call them) that just splice into the factory wires and then go from there.
or, you could do it right, and not do what ^^^ said.
car audio noob since 1984.
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:DO NOT CUT AND SPLCE. EVER.
The hell are you talking about? How else are you gonna do it?
Take factory speaker wires, CUT THE PLUG OFF (yeah I said it)
(You could also leave the plug and just strip the insulation of the wiring if you desire.)
Solder the speaker wire that is left to the speaker wires that came with the speaker or directly to the spade terminals on the speaker itself.
Front right - (lt grn = positive+) / (dk grn = negetive- )
Front left - (tan = positive+) / (tan = neg )
I agree. Splicing is ok just dont twist and tape.
Rich Grayo Jr. wrote:DO NOT CUT AND SPLCE. EVER.
YOU NEED TO STOP TRYING TO ACT LIKE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT AND YELLING IN A FORUM YOU HAVE NO PLACE GIVING ADVICE IN.
and, Anton, I would NOT use scotch locks either. Horrible connection, horrible way of wiring things.
My advice on wiring in new speakers(and I'm not going to say get 6.5's if you are just replacing factory, it takes a little extra work, not everyone want's to upgrade size.), Cut the plug off, put some female spade connectors on the factory wires so they slide right on the male spades that most aftermarket speakers have on them. Unless you get speakers that have a different style of connector, then change accordingly.
And another thing, you said they sounded bad but looked good. A blown speaker isn't always going to be visibly bad. The cone and surround(only things you see when removing the door panel), are only 2 of the many many parts in a speaker.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
ive never had a problem with them. doesnt mean they dont have there problems.
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Anton Miller wrote:ive never had a problem with them. doesnt mean they dont have there problems.
Increasing the resistance in wires, be it with poor wire, small wire, too long wire, poor conductivity splices (scotch locks), or corrosion has an incredible effect on the linearity of a speaker system.
Brad just hit it on the head with what I was trying to say.. They barely brake the casing and give an absolutely poor connection. What good is everyone fighting to get bigger and better wire if they connect it with those little piss poor scotch locks??
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
I use solderless crimp terminals. With a proper tool. Have had zero problems with any of my installs. For my tweeters I have bullet connectors so I can quick connect/disconnect the door panel if I need to.
Scotch locks aren't bad either. Granted soldering and heat shrink tubing is going to be your best connection, but if you solder it crappy, you'll be in the same boat as if you twisted and taped.
I did my entire head unit harness with crimps due to my piss poor soldering ability at the time. It hasnt had any problems.
cutting stripping and using crimp connectors is fine. It's the scotch locks that have a horrid connection.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
I took the speaker out of the door and even the back looks fine.
SFCavy23 wrote:I took the speaker out of the door and even the back looks fine.
Lemme hook it up to one of my monoblocks, I'll fix that.
You are not going to see the problem if you blew a VC or anything else broke. The only time you will SEE the problem would be if the surround tore or separated, the spider came unglued, tinsel leads broke, or the damn thing just fell apart lol. if it's a voice coil issue, it is somewhere you won't see.
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
Move the cone in and out, see if it crunches.
scratches more so than crunches I would call it
On the other hand....you have other fingers.
In my family we teach that boys have a God-stick and girls have a Shame Cave. -John Stewart
i just put some bostons in my doors yesterday but im taking them back because there was no increase in quality..
but yeh after you take the panel off disconnect the window switch then disconect the speaker i cut the wires and spliced the top cap to the bostons so i could use factory clip and it works fine i dont know what the guy was talking about when he said dont splice you kinda have to unless you wanna be pulling out hairs
Is it ok to use butt connectors to connect two wires together and were can you buy shrink wrap?
Thanks
Butt connectors is fine WITH A GOOD CRIMPER. Those cheap 3 dollar crimpers don't do crap. Either a good ratchet crimper, or the Klein crimper are the ones I like. Shrink wrap can be bought at any auto parts store.
